KevinR

See the link I posted above

https://www.tkelasguhuy.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=810833

But you didn't, you replied to this very thread back on the 15th September 2020

Following numerous attempts by spammers to register on the Forum, I have set the registration system to require manual admin review of every new registration before they can use the Forum. Hopefully this will prevent another occurrence of the messages that "Alina" sent out last night.

The offending user was deleted last night. Their IP address (and several thousand other addresses in the same block) were also added to the banned list. There has NOT been a "Breach of Security", it is simply a case of a spammer managing to register on the Forum from a "clean" IP address and then sending out hundreds of PMs to members. I cannot delete the PMs that have been sent, but rest assured, the offending user has been removed.

Dealt with and hopefully all messages from here deleted

Dealt with and hopefully all messages to members deleted

Choke stuck on ?

Graham, Yes please, It's the centre of the roof I need, not the actual front lip part, so a photo would confirm if there is enough there to fill in the Webasto sized hole in my roof. more than happy to travel to collect. Kevin

Already tried all of them, no chance - not even Qu****rs !

Glue or welding, either is possible, but first I need the panel. not a lot of point debating how best to fit the panel until I lay my hands one. The front edge of the existing roof is in very good condition, so I would be reluctant to replace the entire roof unless the front edge of the replacement was in equally good condition. The GT6 in question is low mileage and has been dry stored and off the road since 1986, so it’s been off the road for more than twice as long as it was on the road.

Hoarding ? I call it Investing 🤑 Unfortunately there is quite a lot of curvature over the panel - its about 24" x 24", and at least 1" of curvature in all directions. Wheeling is the only option for making one - no amount of shrinking and stretching using heat alone is going to get anywhere near the required curvature.

I'm just getting ready to restore one of the GT6's I've got stashed and I'm not really keen on trying to fit a replacement Webasto roof - the old one is really really past its best and there is no way its going to go back together. In addition, I'm not really a fan of Webasto style roofs, and so I want to fill in the hole with a bit of steel. Knowing that there are one or two totally rotten GT6's out there that are unlikely to ever make it back on the road, has anyone got a roof section that they want to get rid of. I don't need the complete roof, and a rotten front edge is not a problem. All I need is enough of the central area of a roof so that I can joddle it in, weld it up, grind back the joint and skim it with filler. If it makes any difference, the car is a MK1 GT6, and I believe that the roof profile is the same (in that area) on all MKs of GT6. As an alternative, does anyone know of someone who would be prepared to wheel up a panel using an English Wheel. Beer Tokens available to help lubricate a deal.

If its Andy Flexney that wants an Autobox, the question wasn't asked here on the Forum. Although Andy is a member of the Forum, he hasn't posted anything. Is it possible that he posted the request on one of the other Triumph fora ?

How about a bit of heat, applied with a hot air gun or even a blow torch

looking at the listing https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Triumph-Gt6-Spitfire-Chassis-Engine-And-Running-Gear-/144142462353?hash=item218f8f6d91%3Ag%3Awc0AAOSwFAJhDSiG&nma=true&si=juZtphxQ%2FR93%2FUZZuahdbmdT4Cc%3D&orig_cvip=true&nordt=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557 It's a GT6MK3 chassis and running gear. It's got a RHD steering rack The remains of the bonnet that went with it is a USA spec MK3 bonnet. The metal plate that is on the left hand outrigger is the "number of the chassis" and is absolutely meaningless - it is definately NOT the "Chassis Number" . You must NEVER ever ever ever mention this number in any correspondence with the DVLA, it will totally confuse them and make it almost impossible to register. Many people have fallen foul of this in the past. Hopefully you will be able to find the V5c for it

If you can get a hold of a pair of reconditioned type 16 calipers it would be better than getting new ones. The new ones that are out there apparently have a machining error in the groove where the piston seal sits and this means that the pistons wont retract properly when you take your foot off the brakes. You may need to acquire an old manky type 16 LH calliper as an exchange for the reconditioned one.

If it’s a Herald/Spit upright in the LH side, you will also need a new stub axle and hub. Basically you’ve got a Vitesse/GT6 setup on the RH side and a Herald/Spit setup on the LH side. You need Vitesse/GT6 uprights, stub Axles, callipers and hubs on both sides. Never ever underestimate the “ingenuity” of a previous owner. Does the car have a valid MOT ? The MOT tester should have spotted the difference in the two sides and failed the car with a “dangerous” failure.

It’s also possible that both uprights are correct, but one has been fitted with the calliper bracket for a type 16 calliper and the other side fitted with the bracket for a type 12/14 from the very early disc brake Heralds. I would also look very carefully at the stub axels, hubs and bearings and make sure that they are Vitesse/GT6 ones and not one from a Vitesse/GT6 on one side and one from a Herald/Spitfire on the other

A R Pound in Baldock, behind Tescos http://a-r-pound.edan.io/

With Triumph diffs, most of them are essentially the same internal design and will be equally durable regardless of the ratio used. - except the 3.27:1, where they had to reduce the thickness of some of the metal of the carrier in order to get the crown wheel to fit, and that reduction in thickness makes the design inherently weaker. Fitting a different ratio to a 3.27:1 casing will not make it any stronger. If I understand correctly, a 3.27:1 crownwheel cannot be made to fit the other casings without machining work.

Other than the boot carpet, all the carpet looks original to me - the pile certainly matches some original carpets I've got. The gearbox tunnel carpet is a proper moulded one, and other than original Stanpart manufacture ones, the only source of moulded carpets is Newton Commercial and the pile of the carpet in this car is much higher quality than the NC stuff.

If you look carefully, its got a battery clamp - the battery has a "step" near the top and the clamp is on the lower step and not the top of the battery. You can see the two retaining rods and the end of the clamp protruding at the sides of the battery.

I got mine years ago 2nd hand on Ebay. I recall that it was less than £10 delivered.

I use a Snap-On S9704KFUA on a 3/8” extension. It’s got a universal joint built into the socket itself. https://shop.snapon.com/product/S9704KFUA