thescrapman

It will run on 6v, just not as well. change to a 12v coil, and modify wiring, or just run the red wire to a 12v ignition switched feed.

The do drive very well, better than some much more modern stuff. BMW must have been impressed at the time as well. Before making changes like bigger or more powerful engines try to meet up with a few people with tuned 2000 or 2.5s

Clean the pump out, blow the fuel lines through. pop the tank out, fill it with nuts and bolts (count them!) and shake a lot. flush out regularly, and refit. fit an inline fuel filter ( 3.2 V6 Vauxhall Vectra is easy fit and cheap) just before fuel pump ( easiest place) dont paint inside. It comes off again sometimes, and clogs permanently. repeat a few months later if filter clogs up.

Green Spark Plug company list W7DTC for £2 each. 6 shipped to Aus is £20. 😞 Try to find the 5 in NGK, bit hotter, worked for me.

Rust, rust and rust basically. Not sure if you can get to buyers guide https://www.tssc.org.uk/tssc/cars_final.asp?model_ID=42 looks a nice clean car in your photos

Peter, which NGK were you using? I kept fouling the 6, but the 5 seemed to be much better. They did still foul occasionally. And I found a good scrub, then a rinse with thinners, and cooking on the stove for 5 minutes sorted them. I am now using the 3-pronged Bosch, they are very hard to foul, though the PI in the alps seemed quite adept at it.

That under the fuel pump hole is Marcus' patented oil system pre-pressuriser.

M if your current policy is under written by ERS then you will get same quote from PJ +/- a few £. As I discovered a few weeks, tried 4 brokers, all use ERS, and each knew more about me than I told them, so we're getting details of my named drivers from ERS. I eventually found a different underwriter via Cherished Insurance, saved 40% compared with PJ.

I think 1 part of the kit is wrong, back to Dave without a shadow of a doubt to check.

The instructions imply sealed cassette bearings, so do not need , nor a D washer.

M, you don't say where you live.

With a conifer car it may welll be a cactus stripe. What page number is it on, I have looked through and can't spot it.

I have a colleague who is very elusive. Having managed to get an answer one day I accused him of being like Lord Lucan. Who's he was the reply? Suffice to say he is half my age. 😞

I was told the clamp always had to be up against the bottom of the tube and the plastic washer was to stop the clamp rubbing against the alloy cap on end, That completely eliminates any in and out movement which may affect horn operation.

The washer may be the ne that goes between the slide clamp and the bottom of te column.

It was, but isn't now, postponed by a year, and Tesco, Tertre Rouge again

One useful thing with the A127 is that there are 2 outputs on the back, both the spade and the threaded stud are common inside, so run additional wire off the stud to the battery.

Last of the Vitesse and possibly also 13/60 Herald had a steering lock and ignition switch

It says you are in Sri Lanka, is that right?

I was going to suggest banging them with a hammer whilst applying and removing the power. As for new ones, look for the Nautilus ones also found this https://www.carbibles.com/best-loud-car-horns/

One that hangs down is Mk3 GT6, to drop alternator below bonnet line. Have been very expensive in ,the past, that one being an aftermarket replacement. the nice shines alternator above is an A127

They are basically ether I think.

Even neater is to remove the innards from a broken control box ( I am sure everyone is like me and has a box full of them) and solder a bit of wire between the relevant connectors. invisble that way, and you don't end up with loose wires and a clump of insulating tape floating about.

Open is with the pin out on the side opposite the water exit pipe, closed in when pin is in

Many years ago I went to look at a local member's engine, as it was making a very odd noise. It had an alloy rocker cover, and the noise was whistling through the tiny hole in the cap. Like a pressure cooker relief but in reverse. There was so much vacuum in the engine you could not remove the filler cap if the engine was running, and the whistling became a wail on the over-run. He went back and queried this with the Triumph specialist he purchased it from, and was told that was normal as it was ne of his old race engines. The engine was certainly not standard. But that might much vacuum? It was like the intake system was routed through the crankcase.