daverclasper

Maybe I was lucky, though I managed to get most of it out with a large plastic syringe (£1.00, delivered off Ebay) and have also replaced the filler plug with magnetic. Dave

Hi, and thanks. So far have only looked on E bay and only found aerosol/canister for compressor air gun, will look if specialists have it to brush on. Out of interest, it's not like some underseals, that can dry out and start lifting?. Cheers, Dave

Hi. Anyone know if this available (or an alternative) to brush on please. Thanks, Dave

Hi. A while back I replaced the M/C on Vitesse with a Landy unit, plastic cap Iv'e just realised has no breather hole. Clutch seems to be working ok. Is this ok?. Also does the fluid level in M/C drop a clutch wears?. Cheers, Dave

Hi Clive. Were you being ironic?, or is there difference with GT6?. Dave

Don't use chock until you have oil pressure. Wouldn't either of these stress the starter/wear the ring gear?. My Vitesse has good oil pressure (according to the gauge) and has stayed the same for past 12,000 miles, though will rattle for a second or so even after being parked up for only a few hours (has a spin on conversion). Maybe not the end of the world, as one experienced, school of thought is, "they've been doing it for years, why worry now". Dave

Cheers Pete. Last time my fingers/hand was strong enough to press the washers down and turn them. Not now, old age creeping in I guess. Cheers for pliers tip, worked a treat. I had the pointed rubber cylinder dust covers pushed back along the hose on dismantle, though forgot they have to also feed through handbrake levers until I tried to push them back on after the whole job done apart from fitting wheels. Seemeed to me it would be shoes off, cylinders off (I have been unscrewing the cylinder off the hose to remove as the hose seems it would twist too much to remove from cylinder easily).? undo handbrake lever linkage, to fit properly. Had enough by then, just cut them for a fit. They were only 2 years old, though just starting to split anyway. Cheers, Dave

Cheers Pete. Will look for that. Dave

Cheers Pete. Always do it with drum off, so I can see if comes out of inner seal (it did this once) and clean off. Where does it flay out?. Dave

Hi. Have been doing mine about every 3000 miles and they take about 5/7 pumps of large gun before it comes out of hub inner side, of hub/D.S seal. Is this normal?, no evidence of it losing it/spraying around. Where does it go?. Thanks, Dave

Thanks fellas. Had one side, that had washers at top of spring, non at bottom and washers on outside of brake plate (though I prob fitted them like that, last time). Didn't think it was that critical, though why not check. Cheers, Dave

Hi. Assuming these go each end of the short spring. Thanks, Dave

Welcome Bod I'm a Vitesse man, but also love the Mk1. So 60's Dave

Thanks Dave. Will do. In the past I've used copper grease between cylinders and brake plate to aid sliding. Would normal grease be better?. Dave

Hi. Well finally got around to stripping the rear brakes. Cylinders don't appear to be sticking, with a bit of pedal pressure, though one side was weeping a bit, so new ones on the way. Yes Colin, there is a bit of brake plate groove wear, more so on one side. No welder to fill these, so have just smoothed off wear edges with a mini dremel thing so cylinders should slide easier. I did notice that the lever pivot pins sit in the cylinder channel, a bit proud of the slide surface and assume this promotes the groove wear and the thumping. I think I read a thread ages ago on CT where Bill Davis reckoned it was common with modern cylinders and to dress down the channel a bit so the pin is flush. Think I will give this a go, if the new cylinders are the same. What do you think?. Cheers, Dave

I've an old Mamod from when I was a kid. Haven't started in since then. Imagine if the piston/bore, had proper compression (would probably be too quick, crashing into walls etc). Maybe there is a scene where folk modify them and have 10 foot (no metres here) drag races. Dave

Thanks a lot Richard. That's what mine is on Mk1 2litre, so presumably ok and I can use the 1/4", I bought a while back, though not fitted yet. Cheers, Dave

HELP PLEASE. if you can to above post. Dave

On Club Triumph site, a few folk have appeared to have successfully lubed trunnions with largish plastic syringes/oil cans, after removing nipple. Dave

Cheers Pete. What's the bundy bridge pipe please (the splitter to feed both carbs?). In the past I replaced a couple of sections of hose (tank to metal feed pipe and short bit of hose link in the metal feed pipe). I'm pretty sure the hose was 6mm, though went on easy enough. I will measure outside diameter of metal pipes. If for some reason it's 6mm, is this a problem on 6 cylinder (engine does look like it may run on the weak side at higher revs, by plug chops colour, and can hesitate a bit under load sometimes, though good at other times with a healthy plug colour)?. I thought Herald 13/60/Vitesse had same tanks and will check part no's, as, assume the 13/60 tank would have 6mm pipe feed?, though larger for Vitesse. Any help on this much appreciated, please. Dave

I understand Vitesse 6 is 6mm along the run. Is there the difference for Mk1 2 Litre do you know. Dave

Thanks everyone. Will leave well alone.

Thanks Richard. I generally use penetrating fluid first (for a few days, if got the time), then some heat, if need be ,gentle/severe, depending on what it is. Is plus gas really good?. Dave

Thanks Richard. I was thinking of just trying to free up the brass tap lever thingy, not removing the complete tap assembly from rad. Cheers, Dave

Hi. The tap is seized (as is probably the tap fixing to rad). I haven't tried unseizing it at this point, so dont know how bad it is. Just wondering if I can "gently" free it, could there be issues with it leaking?, should I let sleeping dogs lie?. Just finding it a bit messy, draining by undoing the bottom hose. Cheers, Dave