daverclasper

Hi. I'm not asking for any info on alternative rust products , though would be interested on views on spraying existing Waxoil/Schulz that is drying out, with a bit of something to rejuvenate it. Was thinking diesel, as maybe won't dry out quickly, or white spirit, that maybe would more?. Or any other common garden substances?. Obviously, I don't want to create a fire hazard on/Within the car if this idea would make it dangerously inflammable ?. Any views on this would be great. Cheers, Dave

Hi. I was wondering, as due to rocker pad wear on some, I have been adjusting these by feel, related to the ones I know are good and hoping this was ok as long as it was within a 2/3 thou?. Rather not buy new rockers, though would be confident about dressing them, as I used to fine filing work for a while silver smithing, though not enough time at the moment for the car. Cheers, Dave

Hi Gully. Assume that's for GT6. If so, If you can let me know the measurements please , as will be handy for my Vitesse. Cheers, Dave

Well. I think, unless you have a more prestigious model that you want to keep it's value higher, ongoing, then do the finish you like. I did the Vitesse woodwork a few years ago. I have done a lot of painting and decorating, so quite used getting a good finish, though I also wanted it to be a low intensive labour job. So Carefully prepped down to the original laminate. Then about 4 thickish coates of general oil based (non milky, tougher, in my experience) varnish (I had some satin finish at the time), not rubbed down in between coats, left to go hard for a few weeks. Then gently rubbed down with fine grade wet and dry, until the finish I liked (a mid sheen, without using polish). To me it looks a good finish and I've been asked where i had it done !. Has survived well and seems a toughish finish, as doesn't scratch easily (not been subjected to leaks/damp/much UV light, as most of our cars maybe aren't). Just some thoughts. Dave

Hi. I have used a Landrover Defender one. Part no STC500100. (only about £10.00 off Ebay, inc postage), though I have not seen repair kits available for it?. Fits straight on. Also helped a lot with my minimum pedal travel, at the expense of a slightly more effort needed. Dave

Or hopefully to the "pint". Dave

I have a bitza on the Vitesse, that has Dolly 1850 shafts (this was so a J type overdrive could be fitted I understand). Box was rebuilt by Mike Papworth (bit of a guru on Triumph B/G) who I think advised that TR7 friction plates fit as well. Dave

Just took it in for brake test at local general garage and all fine, yipee!. The guys loved the car and didn't charge me, even though I tried to insist. Happy days (until I start over worrying about something else!). Thanks, Dave

Hi. A bit out of my budget unfortunately, ready made. Wondering if they can D.I.Y'ed, by shaping a block of general upholstery foam?. Cheers, Dave

Yes. Think I will do that. I know the fronts take most of the load and I have heard that it doesn't show with pulling to the side even if a rear not working. It just seemed odd that very little shoe dust in offside drum, not had to adjust the shoes at all for ages offside and shoes worn more on the nearside that sent me down that route. Thanks, Dave

Thanks. well I have swapped the drums over, as the they hadn't been refitted at that point and still pulling to one side. Just one more possibility I've wondered. I've never studied exactly how the adjusters actually work. It is not siezed, though could there be wear/damage, that is throwing a shoe/shoes out of balance/line with the drum?. Cheers, Dave

Thanks Paul. will get one. Dave

Hi Paul, do you have a link/info on where you got the inline fuel tap from please. Cheers, Dave

Cracking pub. Stayed there a few weeks back. 2 nights for two people, £95.00 inc breakfast. all year round I think.

Cheers Pete. Enjoy the bit of sun if your still on holiday. Dave

Hi. The horse shoe shaped ones. Mine have always been pretty easy to remove and re-fit and don't appear to have much tension, so there is about 1.5mm/2mm of free side play between cylinders and back plates. I know they need to slide freely, though is this abnormal/excessive and if so will it need remedying please?. Thanks, Dave

Thanks. Good to know. I did 6 of the front ones that way. Decent blades a must.

Thanks. Is it more difficult (if it comes to that). than carefully sawing through the front suspension bolts/tubes ?. Dave

Thanks. Is that a problem as far as using the car, or is it like front wishbone bushes, that still work ok with siezed bolts, as the the bush tube is clamped tight anyway?. Would rather wait until I have remove drive shafts anyway, for some reason if I can. Cheers, Dave

Hi. Had one side and rear of car in the air to change radius arm bushes recently and tried to tap the trunnion bolt out. It was stuck though I didn't go mad. Is this a siezed trunnion as such. Both axles drop to droop position when jacked up. Thanks, Dave

Just to check before I attempt the radius arm. I know the bow in the arm is fitted so at the bottom, though is there a difference with back to front, as such?. Doesn't look like there is. Cheers dave

Hi. Last time I greased my front bearings, I was unsure if the inner was supposed to be able to spin on the stub, so didn't grease this area. Will the grease have got flung about enough to have done this anyway. Prefer not strip it again to do this. Ta, Dave

Wondering if this should read " 7/8" " MC. I think this is the one I used. For a Landy. Only £10 inc postage. Stopped the griding, going into reverse. Dave

Just out of interest. Aside from total peak running conditions , whats the minimum valve clearance you can safely have in road use, without burning valves do you reckon?. Dave

I once tapped a paper clip down to 10 thou and set with that, though some tappets still seemed noisy. Don't know why?. I now go by feel and this seems to work. A good way of isolating noisy ones is to use an old feeler gauge at say 5 thou and check with the engine running (thanks Pete) as the noisy ones quieten down. Dave