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daverclasper

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Everything posted by daverclasper

  1. daverclasper
    Hi. My drivers side glass, when fully wound up, has a gap of about 1/4" at the top. Lot of wind noise at speed. Any adjustment for this please. Can't find any info in Haynes book. Thanks, Dave
  2. daverclasper
    Could you run it for a while at the hesitant stage, then do a plug chop. It might show wetter/different colour, plug ( if ignition related from the segments of the dizzy cap to the plugs)/or 3 plugs, if one carb related). could be way off with this, just an idea. Dave
  3. daverclasper
    Glad it appears sorted. I was feeling for your frustration.
  4. daverclasper
    Thanks Johny
  5. daverclasper
    Thanks Johny. So do you mean a large screwdriver between the bottom of tyre and the ground (surface gap) with car, when jacked up so wheels clear the ground and then lever upwards, for play in the rubber wishbone bushes please?. Thanks, Dave
  6. daverclasper
    Not sure how you check suspension bushes (on Vitesse). Is it jack up, so a gap between tyre and ground and lift/lever the suspension with crowbar etc (my Mot tester showed me trunnion play this way) and this shows any play in all the bushes?. Or is it suspension on droop and try to lever individual bushes against something solid near by, to detect play?. Never found good info on this anywhere, so any advice this great please. Thanks, Dave
  7. daverclasper
    Hi. I understand that if original, then suspension bushes can look knackered, though still be good on the inside and last for years like this. Wish I had known this before I replaced all mine. Dave
  8. daverclasper
    I guess if it is/was a "good" running engine with some history maybe more value, than something found in a shed that starts ! ?. Dave
  9. daverclasper
    Hi. Mine has the magnetic one. Just drained the oil. Probably for the about the 4th time, though just noticed there is a few mm gap between the sump and the plug, hex face when tightened. I know the threads are tapered for a seal (therefore no copper washer copper?), so is this ok. Thanks, Dave
  10. daverclasper
    Thanks chaps. It was maybe a one off/intermittent thing, as back to normal now.
  11. daverclasper
    I think that plug colour is maybe ok (unless the car feels like it's running weak), though like you say if it's at the top of adjustment, then not ideal. It looks like it has some brown colour on the earth electrode?, if so, then mine look like that, though sometimes difficult to compare off photo's. Some folk say, modern fuels can/will give more of an overall grey colour?. Dave
  12. daverclasper
    Just wondering. Not as much fun as doing a manifold roast in the oven, but would the paint not bake anyway, after a few miles of running.
  13. daverclasper
    Hi. Off to Cornwall tom in Vitesse, so just checked coolant level. It was a bit pressurised and the coolant was right at the top of the filler neck (usually a bit below). Maybe the cap not allowing expansion into the bottle when hot?, though I don't completely understand how they work. Any advice please. Cheers, Dave
  14. daverclasper
    Always wondered that myself. How does it make the difference. It obviously must.
  15. daverclasper
    Cheers Pete. Saves me having to dismantle again. Dave
  16. daverclasper
    Hi. Just read that the bearings spin on the stubs. Had to do some work on the trunnions recently, in a hurry and hubs off, I guessed that they weren't supposed to spin, so, cleaned the bearing surface of stubs/inner bearing faces and put back together. Off for a long trip on Friday. Do I need to regrease these, please?. Thanks, Dave
  17. daverclasper
    Hi. Aside from radius arm drop, is it just jack up rear end, so suspension is at droop (to take load off) and remove wheels, to access the bolts please?. Cheers, Dave
  18. daverclasper
    Hi. No offer of advice I'm afraid, though what are the anti spin, pins, and where are they situated please. Thanks, Dave
  19. daverclasper
    Hi and welcome. Can be good to buy off a club sale. "Car and Classic", often have a good few, for sale. Good luck with the search. Dave
  20. daverclasper
    Well done. I think at least, some loctite is petrol resistant. Be interested to know how it goes. Dave
  21. daverclasper
    A lot may depend on what you use the car for. An everyday/all year driver, I would probably do the best I can. A summer, weekend driver may last for years with no protection?. Dave
  22. daverclasper
    Hi Clive. Sorry if that wasn't clear. Hope this makes more sense. I mean't the top coat won't last, due to grit/stones, flung at it from the wheels (on the bulkhead/wheel arches etc), therefore if it is needed to avoid porosity, will have to be repainted?. I Can't afford the hard wax at present, so hoping the stone chip (over primer), was more "fit and forget sort of thing". Dave
  23. daverclasper
    Thanks folks. Is that to put the cling film over the top of can before lid, to seal it from the inside please?. Dave
  24. daverclasper
    Hi and welcome. Yes. Buying a good one to start with is a good move. I do around 3000 miles a year and keeping up with body and mechanical maintenance is time consuming. Iv'e found the main issue with reliability is the re-manufactured parts. Rubber parts spring to mind. They often only last a couple of years. Also had ignition problems with condensers and rotor arms until I bought some NOS ones. Dave
  25. daverclasper
    Hi. It's odd, that Stone chip may absorb water and therefore need top coating, as presumably the top coat won't last long and need re painting. Which is sort of an oxymoron? Dave
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