daverclasper

Cheers folks. I was surprised at 6 months Pete as seems overkill, though as the Haynes said that, thought maybe I ought to. Dave

Hi. I have opened these up as per photo's (hopefully). Probably common on lots of our cars. Thinking to use that milky cure rust stuff I have (I know from experience it doesn't penetrate that much, also acid gels never seem to either, even if you seal with cling film and leave over night). So. do that and put Araldite in between and close up (longer lasting than any seam sealer I reckon? and I won't need much). And !!!. Hope for the best. What do you reckon on doing this, please. Cheers, Dave PS. Ignore the cat pic, nothing to do with it

Classic, heritage 20/50. Been in about 6 months and 1500 miles, though quite a bit of that in the city. That's usual driving conditions for me and in the past I have only changed it yearly, at about 3000 miles and that was Wilko classic (Always had good oil pressure that never altered between oil changes). Now I understand it's best to change every 6 months. Will do it soon. Dave

Hi. As usual when my girlfriend is away the kitchen table is a work bench and the hall way a tool store. bought a very cheap/scrap Herald box to practice stripping/ and rebuilding and thought there could be a slim chance of usable/difficult/original bits to salvage, eg lay shaft ,syncro rings, Having trouble removing the prop flange (yes the nut is off). Can only think it is rusted to the shaft splines. As well a using a hammer on the flange, I have held the flange in a heavy vice (though this could have squeezed the flange into the shaft a bit?) and tried a lump hammer on the side extension bolts to dry and move box away from flange. The flange is moving out of the vice jaws. Tried pen oil. only thing I can think of is to heat the flange to expand it from shaft. Any ideas please?. thanks, Dave

Maybe below average project price, but well below average project condition?. Cheers, Dave

Hi. Are the 2 bolts (each side) that fix these, held with welded on captive nut thingies on the inside, ie, can I undo them and refit easily please. Thanks, Dave

Can you access some digital kitchen scales to compare?

hmm. not sure. Unfortunately JB Weld (liquid metal) 2 part epoxy I have found not resistant to petrol. Don't know if there are others that are?. Also I imagine it would have to be fitted back in centrally, not sure how easy this would be if it's pretty loose. I understand the the pistons are interchangeable between different carbs, so maybe a used replacement?. not sure where from though. I may have a contact no for used carb parts. Let me know if if you want it and I'll try and find it. Dave

Hi. For some reason my MC's never leak out of the top so don't know how good (depending if you want it to strip paint) or bad (if you don't). Doing the bulkhead. Have got rid of all under seal and most of a tough sand coloured paint/stuff. Also most of the body colour paint. Still some more detailed areas to do that have some surface rust under the paint and have been making a bit of noise in the street with drill and wire brushes (a few folk work nights). So is it worth me trying (my old brake fluid), does anyone know please and any tips on this?. Thanks, Dave

Those annoying things (have cable tied mine to help stop them moving) for Vit/Herald, maybe more, are the same I understand as Morris Minor ones, though Morris at half the price, though I noticed Paddocks recently had them at the cheaper price. Dave

Hi. I don't really know, though there is a widespread school of thought that lead additive is not worth spending on anyway, as Triumph engines will have "lead memory". I stopped using it a good few thousand miles ago and have not had any valve recession. Dave

Doing water traveling hoses I've often dipped the ends in boiling water to soften. For fuel, maybe gentle heat with a hair dryer/paint stripper gun and don't forget the vaseline, very good. Dave

Hi Nick. Is that the bracket to outrigger fixing, or the bush fixing please. Cheers, Dave

Hi. I have used EP 80 (as that is what I had) and not 90. I assume it's ok?. Also, I was using grease and have some maybe useful tips on cleaning this out and also using a squirty oil can if no leak leak free gun available to fill them, so let me know. Cheers, Dave

Hi. I would like to disconnect it at source for safety reasons (though leave everything in place). Tracing the 2 wires back from the gauge, one goes to voltage regulator, tother goes to a connector holding 2 dark red wires, that I think is part of the main harness coming into the dash. Any clues please?. Dave

Thanks. It's always used a bit of oil, maybe on average a pint every 1,000 miles. Never showed on the plugs though, so was only wondering and curious what this recent development might be and getting a bit paranoid as usual for me. I'll stop worrying, hopefully!. Cheers, Dave

Well. All optimistic like , I checked no 2 plug after some miles tootling about. It's damp and sheeney again. Can only think it's oil, though am I being too anal about this anyway. as long as it keeps running pretty good ?. Thanks, Dave

Thanks a lot folks. Have PM'd you Richard Dave

Hi Doug. Thanks for tip on soldering iron for carpet edges. Need to cut mine as discretely as pos for quick release when a bit of water comes in via doors (Vit saloon). Have tried every tip/method I reckon, though happens in heavy/prolonged rain. By the way. Hoped you received my PM to you about receiving carb diaphrams. Thanks a lot. Dave

Hi. I'm looking to buy one of these at the right price over time, (probably secondhand if known to be ok). There appears to be different specs. Amps, (my dynamo apparently is 25) Then different sub/parts no's - NCB 136, 37592, 37577, 37503 and VRG 3606. Have looked in FWM/Haynes and doesn't appear to go into detail (Just mentions RB 340). Any clues please. Thanks, Dave

I wouldn't mind one of those "body snaggers?", doing half a hour on my car. Maybe quite skilled?. Dave

The "fag packet etc holder? ", dished bit on top of gearbox cover, always have those 3 screws. What are they for?.

Yo Doug. Mite get me, 1 of dem tings.

Gave it a bit more stick going to and back from "Twiddle Day". 4000 rpm in 3rd, up motorway inclines and even up to 5000 accelerating in 3rd (when you overtook me Pete I WAS tootling, though ONLY because, trying to glance at map, as thought I was bit lost. Ha. Anyway. Suspect plug was clean and healthy looking when got home and car felt crisper and pulling better. Wow, anyone can feel like there driving a Ferrari, after a good old fashioned, "Italian tune up". Dave

Hi Doug. Thanks (have PM'd you). It's dynamo, control box, or loose/bad connection/s I guess. To be honest it's been like that for 5 years, since I got the car. Even longer trips have been ok, using wipers and lights. I Just charge the battery when I get home. I don't think it's difficult to check dynamo output. Will do it one day!. On Pete's advice I'll replace control box, if that seems the problem, rather than mess with it. Dave