daverclasper

Cheers Pete. Glad your 2000 ok, and didn't need new battery?. My brake spanner does fit just, luckily. Has the ends angled a bit?. I'm wondering if this issue could be low hydraulic pressure to that cylinder. The rear hoses were on the car 5 years ago when I bought it and no record of before that. Probably not a bad idea to change them anyhow. Can they fail internally and cause this, do you know Thanks, Dave

Thanks. It seems it might be a rear brake that's not working. Have created a separate thread, as it isn't obvious why.

Brill Pete. An outside the box one that. Thanks. Dave

Hi. Well, Yesterday, as I had rear of car rear in the air anyway, I thought I would change the radius arm bushes. Bolts came out pretty easy, as if not under much tension. This morning it appears the back axle has moved backwards by a good inch. I can only move it forwards by about 1/2" using all my strength , therefore can't get the front bush bolt back in. Have slackened off spring eye bush nut and also shock nut, but made not a lot of difference. The only other thing I did yesterday, was try to loosen the trunnion bolt to grease. I didn't go mad with trying to tap it out and this was the forward motion. I did the other bushes side a while back and didn't have this problem, though didn't leave overnight. Any help great, thanks Cheers, Dave

Do the same, though hold blade/s near the centre. Org metal fan, don't want the old, fatigued, sweetheart to go to that land fill in the sky. Dave

Cheers Pete. I did notice wear grooves in both back plates, when changed cylinders. No welder to fill them in, so I dremmeled the groove edges a bit to make them less severe and hopefully the cylinder movement smoother, as thought it wouldn't harm. Pressing the pedal slowly, there doesn't seemed to be a snatch as if the cylinder was sticking in the groove, then freeing itself as more pressure develops, though I don't know for sure if it would show by doing this. I'm running out of ideas, so thought maybe swapping drums could show if it was ovality. Will adjust handbrake cable, with drums on and shoes locked up. Best with drive shafts at running height I understand, so will jack up vertical links. Are the drive shafts about horizontal for this please?. Dave

Thanks. Both side were adjusted/checked when fitted the new cylinders a few months back and also I adjusted a few days ago to see if It made a difference. Forgot to mention that both these times the offside didn't need adjustment, which also points to not working. Will check handbrake, though cable each side was looshish when changed cylinders Dave

HI. Having decided that front offside caliper is probably working ok (info on previous thread) I have looked at the rear as car still pulling to the left I think. I suspected this offside rear was maybe not up to scratch a few months ago, as there was very little shoe dust around and the shoes didn't look like they had worn as much as the nearside, also the offside cylinder was weeping a little out side of the dust cover (though only a couple of years old). Anyway replaced both cylinders. Still the same now, as very little shoe dust around offside. With the drum off, the cylinder piston is moving out in operation, also when holding the leading shoe still with a screwdriver against the brake plate lip, the cylinder looks to be moving smoothly across the brake plate (this was copper greased when I replaced cylinders a bit back). Also have checked the the shoes are the right way up/correct orientation. Have measured the diameter of inside of the offside drum very roughly with a some carpenters? calipers and seems the same all around, though I guess the drum would have to centered and a dial gauge used to correctly measure any ovalality. It looks like the nearside is a few thou wider. Both pad areas of drums are quite shiny, though the offside has a brown tinge to it. All I can think to try is to bleed the offside again, though pedal feels as firm as it's always been. Swap drums over and see if tother side not working, though I guess there will be different pad wear foot prints on each side?. I do have a set of used spare drums that have some wear, but don't look too bad. Fit these?. Any ideas/advice would be great please. Cheers, Dave

I lost my old blue handled Stanley PZ 2. Was a bit upset, they are brill

Fitted a cheap E.I to car about 4 years ago. No difference to running, fuel consumption that I could tell. After a few months I did change back to points as was having some running issues, though may NOT have been down to the E.I. I fitted NOS points (and condenser). Car not missed a beat in 8000 miles from ignition system (apart from a couple plug failures with modern plugs). Have kept the dizzy cam supplied with a bit of grease and not had to re-gap the points in this time. Also no sign of a pip on the points as of yet. Dave

On the basic, early, CD150, I understand, wear on the spindle/bores for spindle, butterfly and jet/needle can affect running. Anything else on these to look for on these, I can't think of anything?. Ta, Dave

Good for the old feather cuts, back in the 70's Dave

Glad you sorted it and an easy fix, It's kind of disillusioning when you can't trace an issues, wondering is it something bad going on here (well I do, as a bit of a half empty person, unfortunately). My mum had hefty pinking scissors (as a kid, I was a bit fascinated by them for some strange reason) , back from the time when folk used to DIY and repair things more. I guess a lot of stuff, relatively cheaper now. Dave

Welcome, Brill forum. Couldn't have kept my car on the road without it. That looks a nice GT6 for sale and to me a great colour. Dave

Thanks everybody. Well, clamping the free moving piston with my thumbs and can't stop it moving out and tother one not moving. Going on what Pete saint about the hydraulic pressure, then is it worth popping it out and further cleaning do you think. If so I assume it is easy to refit?. Cheers, Dave

I'm am no means an expert by any means on all the differentials on how, even our old cars are running, though with twin carbs, looking at the 3 seperate plugs can give an indication of separate, carb versus ignition issues. I THINK. Dave

Hi. Recently noticed that car is pulling to the left when braking. New rear cylinders a few months ago and were copper greased and sliding freely, so thought I would investigate the front offside caliper. So with the caliper tied out the way and the pads removed, the inner piston, close to the brake pipe is moving in using the pedal, though the outer stays put, though it will move in if the inner is clamped. Have used penetrating fluid and moved it in and out a few times, though not made a difference. I guess the outer pad will start to work as soon as the inner pad is firm against the disc in operation, though enough?. So just wondering if this is normal and if not, what I need to do. Any help great please. Thanks, Dave

Hi Pete. Nearside front tyre is wearing quite a bit more at outside edge. Have been swapping wheels around to even this out. Nowhere level at home, though have been doing a few randon, very basic checks, on car parks etc where car looks fairly level, using a piece of wood and spirit level across rim. Nearside appears it may have more positive camber, than offside, so wondered if to shim out 1 thickness (or more?) as have spare shims and see if it improves. Want to get new tyres soonish, so would like to sort if I can. I haven't checked tracking, though if this wear was too much "toe in", would it show wear on both outer edges?. cheers, Dave

Hi. Does anyone know how many degrees, one of these (each side) will alter camber please?. Thanks, Dave

In a recent thread on here, I was asking if generic stone chip needed over painting, as I didn't want to (as seemed to defeat the object). It seems it may be classed as a primer, and absorb moisture, so will need over painting. Dave

I use, used engine oil to oil my electric chain saw blade, rather than buy the "special" stuff. Unless I'm missing something, why would you buy the special stuff, even if used daily for tree surgery?. Dave

For me, colour doesn't matter as who sees it anyway. Any underseal, keep an eye for any peeling, as if unchecked can harbour moisture and cause bad rust. Dave

I use large plastic syringe and a short length of tube (£1.00, inc postage off e bay). Does it well. Also useful for other things, eg sucking old hydraulic fluid and crud from master cylinders, before changing with new.

Hi. Yes, strap on offside of boot for jack. my brace just loose at side of it?. Dave

When I got Vitesse 5 years ago I replaced all hydraulic seals. Clutch M/C went through 2 kits in a few couple of years (problem with the small seals, as no clutch, rather than large seal leaking a bit). Replaced with Landy one for a tenner, inc postage. Slightly different size, bit more pressure needed, though now disengages about a 1/3 way up on travel, which is an improvement, as before was near the floor and used to crunch reverse sometimes. Brake M/C seals still ok, though had to replace clutch S/C seals recently as leaking a bit. Car is used all the time, which is better for these. So, mixed results using seal kits. Maybe new units ultimately more reliable?. Dave