daverclasper

Thanks John. I was sort of chuffed with those tests across the bores, as not done this test ever before, and my car does use a bit off oil . So, maybe not compression/valve intake related. Will think about air induction related with the manifold and Nicks possible coolent issue into manifold. I have done the spraying around no 6 intake manifold and didn't notice a difference, though my idle is irregular at around 700 revs and maybe hard to show a difference, could raise to maybe around a 1000 when it smooths out and test, do you think?. The car isn't driven hard, so maybe if it is a bit more fuel weak on one cylinder, maybe not the end of the world (or even my Triumph) ?. Cheers, Dave

Never knew that dodge. Pete. Would it be worth, very slightly smoothing the now sharper edge of the plate shamper . Don't want to wear the carb body bore, as hard to get good ones I reckon. Dave

With the trunnions. The Vertical link threads can still be good, (though check for corrosion above the threads as this is where they usually snap, has been good info on the web about this))as the trunnions themselves wear faster. Depends on your budget maybe. Dave

Hi. Well finally found time to do a comp test. Found it bit difficult to get a seal (rubber bung/push in type, maybe rubber hard, as a vintage one) though managed it with the dry test. All 6 cylinders between 190 and 200. Second test with throttle closed showed a difference of 0, or + / - 1 difference from first readings (I guess they should all have been -, as less air)?. Wet test not accurate, as could't get the gauge to seal properly and my helper tan out of time. 1 and 2 cylinders/230 and 220 higher. Did try no 6 ( the one that's running weak, showed 5 higher, but this test was leaking worse and ran out of time at this point. So, not sure what to make of that, except looks like losing comp from the cylinders/pistons on at least some of them. Cheers, Dave

Clockwise looking from the top will richen as your screwing the jet away from the needle

Yeah, My Vitesse like that. Pretty hot this summer, at times, though toasty in winter (don't have to use the heater)

True Nick. I thought it may give me an idea on my mot exempt car, that I could then check out myself. Could there be a lack of skill/common sense with larger companies (not mentioning names) do you think?. Or could it be more unscrupulous reasons?. Maybe we're not allowed to comment?.

I think some folk use plastic rubble sack etc and cut it to size and staple together. That's what I did, with rock wool I had lying about to replace the ragged existing stuff. Also if your not a perfectionist, strong wide (black for ascetics) tape gives an ok/flexible repair. Mines been on 18 months and still ok with the tunnel removed a few (too many) times.

I was thinking of a crusty/fire blanket effect. I don't think Ig would be offended

Hi. Offer until the end of Sept. Phoned them, no catch apparently. Dave

To put out a small electrical fire, I assume.

A stick to dip in the tank meantime/Spare gallon in the boot?.

Thanks a lot for offer of loan of carb balancer Adrian. Not local to Brum though. Would be interested in trying that as I set mine by ear with a hose pipe to ear, though maybe not as accurate. Did have E.I on for a bit, but couldn't notice a difference. My dizzy shaft play does not seem too bad?. My block drain is very free flowing, maybe a sign that the rest is clean, though not proof I imagine. Cheers, Dave

I think it's just something he's done in the past. He's not not much of health and safety sort of guy, I imagine.

Waxoil. Mines covered in the stuff. mixed with a bit of engine oil to keep it from drying out. Oh dear. Well. its either a slow, certain death from rust, or the chance of a spectacular, quick, send off, to the scrapyard in the sky. Dave

I did wonder about how much cleaning up of dry powder. Once you crack them open, then can you regulate/shut off with the trigger?. (maybe will try Iggy's sock first for a small one, all that rock n roll sweat should suffocate it). Dave

Have bought the 1 kg one from screwfix (also on offer) and a 1m x 1m fire blanket off ebay (£3.65 inc postage). Have had an old sock handy, as recommended by Iggy Pop for small dashboard wiring flames , when he drives his old American classics. Dave

Cheers Pete. Not done a comp test before. I had a 250 2 stroke bike way back, that Hydrolicked when I kicked it over, due to petrol flooding and bent a con rod, so just checking oil volume. Dave

Hi. Quick question please. How much oil for wet comp test?. Seems different opinions on this. Ta, Dave

Thanks chaps. That's brill (always expect the unexpected!). I'll try and find time for some compression tests this weekend. Cheers, Dave

Hi. Vitesse Mk1 2 Litre. This is according to plug colour and seems to be getting more so in the past couple of months. Have tried a manifold leak test around no6 area with brake cleaner, though not conclusive (maybe a tiny leak not showing and also I have always had an uneven idle, so maybe difficult to tell a slight change). Any suggestions please, or could it be another issue?. Any help, great, thanks. PS, No difference in how it runs that I can tell, except occasional split second hesitation after say slowing down for a roundabout and then giving it some gas. Dave

Hi. Screwfix have an offer on, for a 600g one. Is this big enough do you know. Cheers, Dave

Only just noticed the Cateram part link . Look like the square ends are offset. Maybe a reason?. Dave

my end cap wouldn't come out with tapping tother end so drilled a tiny hole at edge of cap and levered out. I think the bit that has broken is also a square fit into drive from memory?. Some folk have cut a section of an old cable (a thin cutting disk should give a clean cut) and used that (welded/araldite) into place. I didn't have old cable and an original, second hand came up for a tenner (usually go for around £20) on Ebay so used that. Dave

When it dies completely, Is it worth checking checking there is a spark at plugs?. Dave