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daverclasper

TSSC Member
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Everything posted by daverclasper

  1. Hi Paul. Where did you get your tap from please?. Dave
  2. Hi. Are the toes of the cam lobes/contact with followers, lubed only by oil from the rockers running back down the pushrod holes please. Thanks, Dave
  3. Mine has been working for miles now. It's like the middle picture, though with the spring only a couple mm proud of tip of the push rod. I wonder why mine has and Pauls, hasn't?. Dave
  4. Hi. I assume the end cap seals the oil further in than holes for pin, therefore would the split pins used on the front wheel bearings be ok ?(Vitesse engine). thanks, Dave
  5. Hi. According to a experienced member. If you remove the condenser, as suspect, then car will run ok, though will burn our points if left like this. Dave
  6. Thanks Pete and non member. Very useful. Hopefully straightforward!. Dave
  7. Thanks. Think I might attempt this soon, as don't have to use the car for a few days. Only ever worked on OHC heads before, so some questions please. I understand the pedestal nuts have to be undone a bit at a time, I assume because of valve spring tension. No mention of doing them up like this?. Also, can those end cap pins be tapped our from either end (of the pin) or are they tapered etc?. Was thinking, soak the rockers in petrol, then flush with brake cleaner, a bit of firking about with wire if needed?. Any snags I should prepare for as need to turn it over asap. Any help great, thanks Dave
  8. Just a comment on my experience of breather tube into air filter box. It appeared to oil up the filters some. Dave
  9. Cheers Pete. A sooner, rather than later job?. I have a few longer mileage trips planned in next couple of months. Thanks, Dave
  10. Thanks a lot. Maybe a silly question, but could the mills pins be tapped out with shaft in situ, and shaft successfully cleaned?. Dave
  11. Hi. Rocker cover off today to sort a noisy tappet (Thanks for feeler tip, with engine running Pete Lewis, worked a treat). I did notice that the first 6 rockers did not have oil dribbling out of the top holes (in the past there was none coming from 2,3 and 4 rockers, so this has got worse). There is oil between the valves and rockers and it pools in the recesses at the top of the push rod holes on the top of the head. Engine has good oil pressure, according to the gauge so assuming it's sludge in shaft. Should I be bothered by this as maybe getting worse and clean out the shaft. If so the end caps look like they a held by some sort of pin, that looks like the tops have maybe been peened, though a bit difficult to see. I gather engine flush not a great idea (and would it clean the shaft) on an old engine that appears to have some sludge deposits and can disturb and block passageways ?. Any help great, thanks, Dave
  12. Thanks. Well. I wired in spare relay and switched O/D on. Didn't work and My amp meter in car went up to 30, or off the scale. Switched off straightaway. Realized I had wired it wrong. (poor eyesight). Didn't make a note of what I did wrong. Wired correctly, it now works, though wondering if I did any damage?. Cheers, Dave
  13. Thanks. It's a J Type. It was retro fitted to my none factory overdrive car years ago, by Canley, according to a reciept I have. I did wonder why?. Dave
  14. I think even with good compression, it may be an oil ring?. One of mine is slightly oily sometimes in same area and if you shine a torch into plug hole the corresponding piston top is oily compared to the others
  15. Hi. I think I may have a dodgy 30 amp relay (ice cube type) on overdrive. I have a spare 40 amp. Can I fit this please?. Thanks, Dave
  16. My plugs are sooty with a bit of brown when driving in slow traffic around Bristol. Pale grey at cruising speed. Not sure if the oil around the bottom of plug may be an issue?. Dave
  17. Nice looking R.R Paula, top work. Have though of getting one , though no storage space. Dave
  18. Hi. Just out of interest, is it possible to use a nut splitter, or hacksaw blade, sort of diagonal from top to bottom of nut to remove if enough access. I'm not experienced/confident to drill out sheared studs. Thanks, Dave
  19. Found some old bottles of home brew beer in house we moved into. Clear as a bell (where does that come from, the sound?), tasted like nectar and blew your head off
  20. Going to an autojumble this weekend. looking out for an original R.A for a Lucas 22D6 Dizzy, will risk a second hand one for a few bob, or NOS. If the physical size is correct, IE, will locate on cam and be correct distance from cap segments, then will it be ok? please. I don't know if there is a difference in how much H.T they conduct, for different engines etc?. Thanks, Dave
  21. Sometimes they get blocked with polish. If so. Maybe a bit of solvent, then a squirt to fire it out?. Dave
  22. Thanks Pete. If the seals/bore fail, is it a case of slow weeping, rather than total loss of brakes, say when a M/C can go. Dave
  23. Just a couple more questions please. Brakes have always been very good on MOT's, since I've had it, with no pad dismantling done. Just interested, as the outer pads on both brakes were more worn than the inners, though when I pressed in the pistons on the pedal (after pushing them out about 15mm from caliper ,cleaning up rust scabs and lubricating) with no interference from discs/pads etc, the outers did not move in (though a bit of movement on them). Clamping the inners, then, outers will move in. Is this normal?. Also, there was some rust scabbing on the pistons, some going up about 15mm from piston front face (which I cleaned up). Do the caliper bores also rust and therefore maybe the calipers not re-claimable? . Thanks, Dave
  24. Thanks for that Pete. bye the way, hope you had a good holiday.
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