dougbgt6

Great East Berks meeting last night at the Shire Horse. 12 cars, I think! We got them all artistically arranged on a large triangle of grass, even the punters were taking photos. In fact everyone except me, no camera, damn! Hope someone is gonna post some pics!

In the immortal words of Steffi Graff when a spectator shouted "Will you marry me?" She replied "How much money do you haff?" If your a skinflint like me, repair it. If you've got the dosh get a newer model with a warranty. The increased output is not a problem. You can do the starter motor from the top. Easiest to take off air filters and side panel (if you have it!). Once you've got it off clean up the shaft but, do not grease or oil it, this attracts crud and makes it worse than before. I'm told graphite, pencil lead, is good to lubricate it.

This may not be the one for your alternator but this is what it looks like and how much it costs. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ALTERNATOR-RECTIFIER-FOR-LUCAS-15-16-17-18-ACR-see-notes-in-advert-REF-3923-/111573978155?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item19fa53cc2b

Woo! Hoo! I'll discuss with the lads down the Shire Horse tonight!

Here is an interesting link, a bit rambling but 2/3 of the way down he suggests a much lower resistance on the alternator. http://kawtriple.com/mraxl/trbl_alt.html I believe if a diode is gone in the diode pack you get a higher resistance. I had to replace my diode pack (my son-in-law reversed charged my battery! Bang!) It's an easy enough job.

Not sure about the Vitesse but The GT6 has no fuses for the headlamps! Battery, to light switch, to lights. Triumph were a bit cavalier about fuses! So there maybe some battery drain there. I would disconnect the alternator and battery and measure again.

And not a problem at all, if only I could get my God Damn servo to work!

With my recent brake problems (still not fixed ), I'm contemplating replacing my master cylinder. My GT6 has the late 0.75 bore, GMC 219, unfortunately 219s are no longer available and Canleys and Rimmer both say use the 0.7 bore, GMC 209. I guess this means longer travel on the pedal, is this a problem?

Here's a link to the heritage certificate site. It costs money but, the dvla accept what they say as true. http://www.heritage-motor-centre.co.uk/store/heritage-certificates-and-archive-services/heritage-certificates/car-traced-with-chassis-number.html My car was registered 04/73, the HC will tell you the date of manufacture, mine was 02/73. The number plate immediately following mine was an identical car registered the same day but manufactured 11/72! The last GT6s were manufactured in 11/73 but there are many with 74 plates and a few with 75 plates.

Here's an informative list which includes GT6s: http://www.triumphspitfire.com/historyG3.html Non rotoflex was from February 1973, I know, I have one! KE14585 indicates 1972 manufacture but according to this list the last 1972 was KE13453. Odd! I would get a heritage certificate.

Thanks Andy, I'm wrong again! I've another thread going on CT about my on going problems (and the servo! boom! boom!) Dreamt about it last night. I think I'll take the weekend off and do some house work.

Hard luck Pete! I didn't believe it was going to be easy so I went to the local PO a month before hand and spoke to the couple who run it. They seemed hurt I had no faith in the system and reassured me all would be well. I returned on the day, in and out in 5 minutes, free disc in hand! I guess it's the same everywhere, a few people know what they're doing and the rest are completely incontinent.

"most attempts to remedy a stat sol mends them to destruction" I can confirm John's internal description and Pete's advice. Destructed mine on Friday, I hope the new one arrives today!

Having messed around with my fuel line I don't think there's a lot of difference in pressure between a nearly empty or full tank. Its mainly down to the pump pulling the fuel from the tank. I would check your tank is vented properly if the air can't get in the pump is going to have a problem with an increasing vacuum in the tank. So as you say, on a long run getting towards an empty tank the pump will struggle.

I believe the allowable emissions on the emission test are different depending on the age of the car. My bloke does the same test on everything and looks up the stats for the age. He was an apprentice in a Triumph dealership and know a little TOO much about my car! I've recently been in discussions here, and else where, about my servo problems. I was contemplating just removing it but It was my MOT man who told me the servo was fitted as standard on the last six months of production (my car) and if I turned up without it, that's a fail!

Very good point! It's broke! How do I fix it?

Here is a picture of the steering column from Canley Classics spares catalogue, a very useful source of help. Part number 140549 is the auto cancelling device. Yours may be missing or, there's something wrong with the corresponding bits on the stalk. There are two lobs connected by a spring, a very fiddly mechanism! http://www.canleyclassics.com/triumph-spitfire-mkiv/1500-wheel-and-columns

I have the same high oil pressure at start up, 90/100, but I don't have this problem. The gauges aren't particularly accurate and I wouldn't worry about a high reading. I think the 1500 oil filter is a canister? The one way valve on this is quite crude and I have heard of similar problems, so I would try changing the filter.

Ah! you commented on a Spitfire battery thread so I thought.............

Sorry Simon, for some reason I thought you had a Spitfire1500! Perhaps there IS a reason for categories by model!

By button do you mean the barrel? Sounds like the circlip (Is it a circlip?) has come off the back. Here's a picture from Canley's http://www.canleyclassics.com/y.asp?xhtml=xhtml/diagram/spitfire1500exteriordoorhandledetails.html&xsl=diagram.xsl&xhtmlcatalogue=xhtml/catalogue/spitfire1500.html&category=bodyfittings It's an easy fix but you'll have to take the handle off and the trim inside the door. A lot of fiddly bits that can go ping and disappear! So probably no need for new barrels, I think you'd have a problem getting the same key. Although, I've taken all my barrels apart and rearranged the tumblers so that one key works both my doors, rear hatch and petrol cap.

I agree with Casper. I was a bit confused at first until I got the bookmark sorted the way I wanted it. The way's it can be set up aren't exactly clear, I did it under direction. Perhaps a tutorial would be a good idea along the lines of the one for posting pictures on the old site. What a nightmare that was! Not too clear on here either, but this time I have mastered it!

The one thing I forgot to say is that my GT6 is late with the larger rear braking arrangement. So it looks like I should stick with the servo on the front only.

I've been thinking about changing to dot 5 and saw this thread a while ago. However, I recently found a piece on Buckeye Triumphs which must be the definitive investigation into what the author calls the brake fluid wars! http://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/technical/Brakes/Fluid/Fluid.htm

Dough?!! You've been looking at my photos again!