trigolf

It's the metal pipe type originally fitted as brake and clutch line.

I fitted mintex 1144 pads recently and used Copperslip as I always had before. The brakes squealed particularly when semi-warm. I thought I'd give Ceratec a go. Same result. ☹️ Sorry, that's not really answered your question !🤔

That's taking the stretch GT6 limo theme to extremes...😄

Mike Papworth can rebuild your diff, if not available as exchange. Also TD Fitchett can supply to order. I believe they supply Rimmers, so it might be cheaper dealing direct with Fitchetts? BTW, they are old school re. WWW. Best to phone them. Gav

Good point. I'm no expert, but why did Triumph mount the shocks at an angle on the pre-rotaflex chassis? Having tried both damper locations ( i.e. using the conversion brackets, and subsequently the chassis top mount, as per Vit Mk 1 ( using CV shafts) I can't feel a noticeable difference in damping. I tried using the 'official' specced correct length Gaz shocks, but found them too firm, even on min setting. I'm using Vit Mk 1 Koni shocks and find the ride much more compliant.

On my Vit, the entire length of seal is fitted concave i.e. the two lips face against the glass, which I believe is the correct way. To remove parts of the alloy retaining channel, you gently pull the seal out of the channel to access the retaining bolts. A blunt screwdriver helps to lever it out, used with care.

Well, I'm totally confused now! Anyway, I think I'll get some spacers made, but not out of finest oak🤔😜

Hmm, the plot thickens! Looking at the size of those, would likely make my runner fixing bolts too short? My car had one previous owner. I'm puzzled as to how any mechanic would 'lose' spacers that size during any job!

I've seen mention of 1/2" seat runner spacers before, but neither my Herald 13/60 or my Vitesse had//have them fitted. My Vit has approx 1/8" thick packing washers under the runners and the fixing bolts are the original items I'm sure. I wonder if it was a design or cost saving change?

I would remove the rotor arm. At least then any 'scrote' can't drive it away!

You could pick up a resonable set off ebay and get the remaining anodizing stripped off electrically at the platers. Then get them polished to remove all scratches etc and then get them re-anodized. That's what I did. They'll come up like new.

Nice to hear boss man Derek being very positive about a 2Ltr Mk1 Vit and a Stag.

As said, Powertrack sell complete remanufactured rebuild kits, including the clamp ring.

Good choice, I've got those and am very happy with them.

There is a company in Bury St Edmunds, IIRC, 'Past Parts' ? that can sleeve the Girling cylinder bore and fully rebuild. It's not cheap mind, but if you like originality...Powertrack also supply seal kits for same. I rebuilt my Girling servo after getting it sleeved and am happy with it.

When I bought my Vit in 1981, it had 165 tyres on the rear and 155 tyres on the front...🤔! For some years now, I have been running 175/ 70 tyres on 5J Triumph rims, which I understand is permissable.

Well, according to my AA Book of the Car c 1970, which features a new white Mk 2 Vitesse, the filter colour is silver. Of course, a 1600/ 2L Mk 1 might be different. BTW the AA book has a good section on brakes, featuring the Vit set up.

Silver, prob same shade as steel wheels?

I wanted to change it as I've done nearly 1000 miles since the engine refurb. Why do they make the filter cans with a gloss smooth finish Iain, get a filter with flats on it around the end and use one of these. Simples!

I get spin on filters with the flats around the top. Using a matching oil filter removal tool ( a 'cap' with a 3/8 socket drive hole in the centre) there's room to remove the filter without having to remove anything else.

Puglet, Are you aware that there are two mounting holes at different heights on the seat pivot brackets. Remounting the seat in the lower holes might give you enough clearance from steering wheel?

Yes, that looks like the "spawn of satan" Remove it asap and chuck it in the bin!

Made by Bell exhaust systems

Phil, The hood finishing trim is indeed fixed through the hood, but I've never had a leak from that area. Just make sure the countersunk screw headsare flush or slightly recessed into the strip when fitted, otherwise they will scratch the small hood windows when folded. The trimmers who fitted my last hood lost the correct screws and fitted incorrect items.....Grr.... Also, before you fit your hood make sure you're happy with the frame fit particularly around the rear of the door windows, to minimise leaks past the seals and wind noise etc.

Just to add to all the good advice, I put a dab of waxoil on each trim clip head before clipping the trim on. It'll help keep the dreaded rust at bay over the next few years...