trigolf

Iain, I'm thinking of measuring the current drawn for each solenoid, for comparison purposes. I've got a feeling that they are going to be fairly similar figs.

To positively identify your diff, visit Canley Classics website. Search for 'Different Differentials'. It tells you how to calculate the diff ratio, by counting driveshaft rotations and also the original part no references. Of course any stamping on casing is now largely meaningless as most have been rebuilt at least once, possibly as a different ratio.

IIRC, many years ago, I had this problem with my Herald. No amount of fiddling, adjusting the internal linkage would fix it. I resolved it then by fitting a new door lock mechanism, which cured it immediately. I THINK it might be to do with how much the door lock mechanism lifts the lock pin to clear the striker catch when operated by the internal handle?

Can you drill into the screw shank and use an ' Easy Out' screw extractor (L/h thread)?

Bad news about cracked phone screen. Bit late now for you, but a screen protector has saved mine more than once! Anyway.... I would just disconnect the lead from the solenoid to the starter and check for 12v at the solenoid starter contact. However, even if a multimeter reads ok, it draws very little current when compared to the starter, so the starter lead may still have a poor or high resistance connection, i.e. loose crimp connector possibly?

When Stan Walters resprayed my Vit years ago, the original weather strips were like rocking horse poo to obtain. I THINK he might have used Ford ones ( poss Escort ?)trimmed to fit around the quarterlight.

They should be chrome or stainless steel countersunk pozidrive screws to fit the trim rail above the window. Sorry, I cant help with screw size. Make sure they fit snugly into hole. If the head sticks up it will scratch the small windows when folding the hood.

In my experience, from first a Herald then graduating to Vitesse, is never buy 'cheap' makes of UJ such as Powertrain etc. Having tried a few different makes over the years, I found that I was lucky to get a year or so of use out of them before developing play in the joint. Most, if not all had weedy sized needle rollers in, when compared to Hardy Spicer or GKN. As they have a hard life, particularly driveshaft joints, I would only fit the above, preferably ' heavy duty' types.

For a 3.89 recon, £930.00 ( includes £300.00 surcharge). Could'nt afford new Crw/p. I've only just crawled out from underneath, after wrestling it in. Knackered now!

Small by modern standards maybe, but look how much room you've got to open the doors!

Check out Rustbuster UK. I've no connection to them but have read very good reports about their products. Indeed I've just bought their Rustbuster Epoxy Mastic 121 two pack paint. They do a whole range of specific products.

Erm, can't remember at mo. I need to pull it out and have a look and see what's going on. I'm halfway through a diff change at the moment!

Rimmers sell them if you're feeling flush!

Forgot to say- GT6 original Rostyle trims exactly the same.

Sounds like you 2 x have early 2000 trims. Same 13" diameter I believe. I had the same problem years ago,after finding some 2000 trims in a scrapyard that were much better nick. One ended up overtaking me down the road bounced into a long grass meadow. It's still there somewhere, gave up searching after 2 hrs! The issue is the steel rim on the back. It's slightly different shape for the 2000 wheel so it does'nt grip properly. It might be possible to drill the rivets out and swap the proper Vit trim clip ring over? I ended up fitting Spitfire wheels and trims.

Hmm, I need to check out my Club supplied high torque starter too. It's only done 100 miles so far ( very recently fitted), but makes a bit of a rattling ( hard to describe) noise once the engine has fired. I refitted the original motor spacer and shim, as recommended on here, but I suspect it might be clearance issues with the pinion?

Thanks Colin. I'll give it a go. Just got to summon the enthusiam to crawl underneath and haul out the old diff and swap in the replacement!

Afternoon all, Just bought a recon diff from Fitchetts and will be fitting it next week hopefully. Browsing ' tinterwebb, I see that Dynolite do a " No Noise EP85W-140 oil. It's GL5 spec but clearly states that its compatible with bronze,copper and brass components. I'm hoping the diff will be quiet anyway, but wondered about filling it with this stuff to give it the best chance of a reasonable lifespan. Anyone tried it?

Sounds like the same as mine. They only squeal on very low speed movement, like coming to a halt once warm.

Fellow club member, Nigel Clark, might be along soon. He did an article for Practical Classics recentley on his GT6

See Martin Mons post under Drivetrain in April. Might be able to help. Gav

Since taking up modelling kits again, I've noticed that most of the acrylic paints like Tamiya etc are noticeably thinner than Humbrol enamel.

Trad Humbrol, the original go-to for modellers is still in tins, rather than plastic. As times have changed, you could say they were forward looking!

38-42 according to my manual. It's quite low compared to modern cars, but the standard size studs are much smaller than modern's bolts.

It's the metal pipe type originally fitted as brake and clutch line.