trigolf

I bought a fibreglass one from Canley Classics years ago. Even though it needed a bit of fettling, it was a damn sight better fit than that! Gav

I think Pete might be right. Sounds like you've got a problem with the felt channel and its jamming. The felt insert eventually wears out. Try a small mirror (I use an old powder compact mirror donated by my wife) and have a look. Gav

Pat, If you converted from Rotoflex donuts to CV Driveshafts you can use the original top mounts on the chassis and thus 'standard' length shocks. You only needed the top mount bolt- on adapter brackets if you retain roto driveshafts. The brackets move the shock top mounts out to clear the donut. I have recently done this on my Vit MK 2. I initially put the Gaz shocks from the club on, but found them way too hard, even at min setting. I reused a pair of Konis ( specced for Vit Mk 1) that we're still in good nick. It gives a nice compliant ride. Gav

Many years ago I bought a laminated screen from Canley Classics. I'm not sure if they still do them - it's a very 'slow moving part'. If not try Rimmers maybe? Gav

Canley Classics used to stock stainless nuts. Not sure if they still do. Gav

I see that Demon Tweeks sell new Girling Master Cylinders and some Slave cylinders too. Some look suitable for our cars. Gav

I think the bit on the left might be a Vit MK 2 Front grill mounting bar? Gav

I wonder if the blue herald's had a bash on the bonnet? The headlight wiring loom is covered in blue paint as is the headlight bowl.

Phil Forgot to add - clear lacquer it afterwards. Looks much better and lasts better too. Gav

Hi Phil, I did mine Triumph Wheel Silver - which I think is what the factory did. Looks correct to me. Gav

Ok. The ballot is now closed. I'll go for Silent Coat inside and out. Thanks all! Gav

Evening all, Sorry to bring this up again, but I've been following the various threads about this for some time and want to fit the best cost effective solution. I've got a Vit convertible, so I'm not so bothered about keeping heat out. I'm more interested in transmission/engine noise insulation. The original hardboard cover was in very poor condition, I tried to repair it with fibreglass matting/resin years ago,but it wasn't very successful, so I bought a fibreglass tunnel cover. It needed a lot of work to get it fitting ok. Thr original bagged insulation was knackered and not fit to re-use. So I got some white foam wadding from an upholsterer's, which I thought was a suitable substitute, and put this into bags and stuck to the inside of the tunnel. I also glued a bubble section rubber seal around the edges. Over time, I've come to the conclusion that the foam wadding is not the right thing for the job and the fibreglass cover transmits more noise thorough it than the hardboard one did. So to achieve airborne noise insulation do I use something like 2mm SilentCoat on the inside of the tunnel and even the outside? Or do I find some closed cell foam sheet about 25mm thick and stick that to the inside of the tunnel? Opinions please ! Gav

I knocked out the Square head bolt and fitted spire nuts to the edge of the lamp fitting hole in the bonnet. Then just use a self tapper in place of the bolt. Saves wrecking your back trying to reach the nut inside the bonnet. Gav

That's a Gaz shock. It should be adjustable with the knurled knob at the bottom. Most people find that setting click 2 or 3 is hard enough. I think it will go up to 12 or so. You'll break your teeth on any more than 3! Gav

I remember years ago replacing the door aperture seals on my Herald. The supplier assured me that they were correct. They were a bubble section with the furflex bit attached. They were useless - too thick. I couldn't shut the doors without slamming them so hard I was scared the windows would break! I think I tracked down the original style aperture seals many years ago - new old stock. They don't have a bubble section, but have a flexible lip attached which compresses more easily- see pics. I have a vague memory of someone saying that Triumph 2000 Mk 1 seals were the same? I'm not aware that any supplier currently stocks the exact type anymore. Gav

Bearing in mind how many water leaks early Heralds had, my understanding is that several mods were introduced to help seal water leaks. I wonder if these weren't added to the parts manual. My Vit convertible has P seals and I'm the second owner. It was very original when I bought it. My previous 13/60 saloon also had them. Gav

Dave and Pete are correct, you should have a P section seal glued to the rear of the windscreen frame from the top of the quarterlight and down to where the door shell sticks forward above the hinge. The P section should butt up against the door aperture seal as an extra seal. I think on saloons it extended along the top of the quarterlight too, but not on convertibles. If someone can't post a pic I'll try and take a pic of mine. Gav

We use a 200W version of the same package in the PAPI ( Precision Approach Path Indicator) lights at the airport where I work. Gav

Erm. I don't think that's correct, as Pete says. IIRC the Mk 1 had a chrome bar with the letters engraved on it fitted on the slant under the Vitesse badge. I think that's an early Spitfire badge.

Slight thread drift, but people seem to stand in one corner or the other, in the SU versus Stromberg argument. I'm keeping quiet! I'll get my coat now.....😜

If you haven't already discounted them, you could try Southern Triumph Services in Bournemouth. They're not the cheapest, but did a very nice rebuild for a mate who has a GT6 Mk 2. Gav

The long pointy thing was in my Vit Mk2 original tool kit and is for removing Rostyle wheel trims. IIRC,you put the hooked end through one of the holes in the trim - near the hub centre and 'twist' it. Hopefully the trim pops off. Gav

I seem to recall that I bought a tinof paint and sprayed it with a Humbrol model spray gun.

I sprayed my Herald seats with Vinalkote years ago. Brilliant finish. No probs since. It was a two part process and I recall they supplied a degreaser you had to use first. It's essential that the surface is completely clean and free of grease for it to adhere properly.

Damn! Pete beat me to it again !