Peter Truman

Is it the American UJ's, also fitted to some Holden's here, where the UJ Yoke splits and there is a bolted on retaining clamp to hold the bearings, would make the reco so much easier. Yes I've failed miserably at fitting the bearing caps too, and yes Colin I've found one on the floor afterwards BUT was it from the old or new UJ that is the question, and there's only one way to be sure BU*G*R!

good point re steering arm 'Non-Member' thanks

I switched the Vitesse (Lucas) & Spitfire (Delco) to the cheap Accuspark units years ago BUT I did buy additional units in case, but have never needed them, there better than the points system & seem adequate for normal use. In the Dolly Sprint I use Luminition Magnetronic (Ex club) as it was the only unit that fitted inside the original dist cap, I tried an Acccuspark unit but it needed a different dist cap & rotar, not indicated by supplier, it was a bad arrangement and fixture, I complained to Accu who weren't helpful at all!

interesting mix of spring and tab washers, I wonder what the engineering thought was behind the mix in what appears to be the same operating environment. Obviously the tabs are the best method of locking the bolts/nuts If any of the 8 bolts came loose they would have the same end result of jamming up the rotating hub and fixed components of the vertical upright, so why the difference in securing options. Irrespective always use new good quality spring washers, because there is some (PRC) china made rubbish out there!

I thought the quote was "They couldn't organize" that's what I've been guilty of saying when reviewing consultants proposals! eg a bypass on a flowmeter to facilitate it's removal for repair/replacement but they omitted the guard valves on the flowmeter, their response "Oh it's obvious", but the valves weren't included in the Bill of Quantities, & the drawings were signed "authorised for construction"!

Took me 2 hrs to do the daughters modern a Holden Commodore what a pain removing the undertray etc and the smallest oil filter I’d ever seen. I brought an electric oil pump to extract the oil out of the sump via the dip stick but the orifice is too small to take any reasonable pipe what a bummer! I pay the money nowadays and get the dealer to do it ain’t worth the hassle!

I had a Co. Corsair for a while it had those seriously swept back wing mirrors, didn't last long in the mid 60's when I was working for a short time at a site in Glasgow!

Yes please Doug. For the moment I have suggested to the moderators the Politics Topic be deleted. Iain I agree with Iain's comment as attached, that on a car club forum primarily for the members benefit re tech advice and general humorous banter there is NO place for politics of any persuasion be it for or against, one's politics are for personnel consumption only, no one else wants to know!

On my Mk2 Vitesse I went the other way fitted a Facet cube electric pump but next to the tank in the boot so there’s min suction pipe work. Pumps ain’t the best suckers prefer pushing. Yes it reqd feeding another fused ign power cable thro to the back and used a 3 terminal oil pressure switch to isolate the pump for safety.

The jet shown looked very clean and new, shiny and polished.

My understanding of AMI Aussie CKD assembled cars was that engines, gearbox's and diff's came out from England fully assembled so would have UK numbers stamped on them. For confusion the Spitfire G/B I recently rebuilt uses the MG 1500 Single Rail internals that I put into a 3 Rail Box that actually has a GT6 case & number!

The sleeve is attached to the column and the two are clamped to the dash frame with a split architectural U bolt type clamp which makes it hard to bypass. colins right you just need to be careful not to damage crimp the looms cables and as nothing moves it should be safe? Just seems an afterthought and poor design!

I agree the extra OD cables will fit but very very snugly I just don’t like the severe compression of all 3 looms in the column sleeve, had thought about stripping the outer sheathing of the looms off that would leave the individual wires loose but I think it’s a bridge to far! somewhere I’ve got Triumphs instructions to their dealers on how to retro fit OD to our cars should search and read that to see if there’s any advice.

Colin when you get the new clutch pivot pin get the aftermarket one with a boss built into one end (top) so it can't fall thro the crinkle washers, never happened to me but seems a good idea. Ref Alloy Bellhousing I have an original Herald type like yours and a later alloy copy of the cast iron one, which is the same thickness as the cast iron one (thicker), & more strengthening ribs, don't know where it came from or who made it, it's only for a 3 rail box, it was on a second hand Herald/Spit gearbox I purchased around 20 years ago. I believe the original thinner version is very popular with the boy racers (Oops) Re the column overdrive fitted switch tell me how and what you think of fitting the extra wiring loom through the column lower outer cable cover/duct all very very tight, worried me about damaging the insulation? Oh you also need the reverse and 1st/2nd inhibitor switch and bracket at the front of the selectors where the paddle switch is on the selector rod protrusion. Fuel Tank drain hole that's where my Vitesse has been converted to draw the fuel normal supply from ie always positive suction to the pump rather than drawing thro the top of the tank. the draw off level has been adjusted to be the same as the reserve level in the normal setup.

The Dolly Sprint has a Servo on all brakes like moderns BUT the rear brakes (shoe & drum) have I assume an automatic adjustable bias valve mounted between the body and diff casing so the fluid flow and hence rear braking is dependent on the number of passengers ie load. Being a KISS person I always wondered if it was really necessary.

Iain I gave up with the Vitesse original switch incorporated Bellows Pump, as like yours it used to be inconsistent and removed rubber bag/bellows and fitted a momentary switch at the rear of the original pump which activates an electric pump, always works now maybe needs a few secs of contact after non use and my thumb thanks me! Interestingly when the car arrived here in 74 it was thoroughly disinfected, outside including engine bay underside of bonnet steam cleaned, inside disinfectant bombed even the rad water was changed, there had been foot and mouth in UK around the time of shipping and the car was used extensively in the NE rural areas, as I worked for the local water board, the one thing they missed here was the screen washer bottle, still have the emptied contents in a bottle in the garage marked TVCWB, scared to open it now!

look on the positive your still here! For my sins in an earlier life I designed and built iron/steel making plants and rolling mills all over, Canada 3No, SA, Greece, Brazil, Japan. The Korean plant was a Gas Production facility, try getting US trucks around a very tight plant designed for UK trucks, a lot of onsite mods?

Belgium steel was crap in the early 60’s (think Ford UK had corrosion issues even on new cars) and Korean steel late 60’s was the worst I’ve seen the deformed reinforcing bar when bent you could see it layering, we had to ship all reinforcement from the UK, long painfull contract that was.

I think I read somewhere that you need to use the lubricant supplied or the bush/fitting dries out and the bush can squeak. TheDolly squeaks terribly after a long hot summer but stops if you wet the offending bush.

Ref prices a friend of mine ho has a fleet of concour classics says " its only worth what someone is prepared to pay", he who has TWO TR4 Alloy Surrey roof assemblies, and doesn't even use them, in fact the soft top is seldom used! Spitfire prices appear to be going thro the roof here in Aus, 12 months ago a vgc model would have been $15k, today there are around 4 examples for sale supposed top quality and their asking $28 to $35k for, as said there only worth what someone is prepared to pay & I think they'll be hanging around for a long time!

Kevin appears to work as you advised click on the thread title but it appears to take me back one or two posts ie possibly the last post I viewed, finally happy thanks everyone

Kevin I opened the address you mentioned and it gives 3 options I choose the last go to the last entry and saved it but it still didn’t work I still go to the first or mid entry

Pete I did open the 3 tabs to see if there was an option to choose the last post all the 3 box’s give you is the display options

Pete I did open the 3 tabs to see if there was an option to choose the last post all the 3 box’s give you is the display options

Frustrating isn't it esp if there's 17 pages, up to a couple of days ago I just clicked on the last post x min or y hrs ago and was there, What have I touched? New to the set up is the top posters on the subject I'm looking at which takes up the right hand side of the page, it wasn't there before!