Peter Truman

Interesting Wagger re solar hot water systems for about the last 10 years ALL new houses here in Aus have to have solar hot water systems. Also around 40percent of houses old and new now have solar electricity which puts its power back into the grid but the selling rate has dropped from over 10c per kw to around 6 as the power co’s lose income so with time people are/will install batteries and even disconnect from the grid as the co’s increase their service charges to maintain their income, a vicious circle! Then there will be an increase in small personnel gennes for extra back up should the sun not shine for a couple of days. Re solar hot water The down side as my son found out is that it requires the water to be internally pumped rather than direct mains pressure so as to keep the water circulating tho the solar panels which means when you have a mains power failure you have no hot water! Whereas us with the old gas direct mains pressure systems can’t see but can still get a shower, there aren’t roof header tanks here every thing in the house runs at direct water mains pressure.

The bottom ball joint on our 75, 2500TC around 78 got to 35tons on a works press and that was a hell of a bang joint OK rubber boot had failed!

I did the daughters Mk2 Spit converting the rod and lever system to MkIV pedal and cable 20 years ago a vast improvement in response and feel, PLUS a significant weight savings that rod and lever weighed a ton! and was terrible when driving over speed humps! The Vitesse is original organ pedal and no rust so easily unscrewed and I'll bite the bullit the above info very helpful, Thanks

Nice Job well done

Similarily I must do the Spitfire in it's upcoming overhaul, the Vitesse was done with Dynamat, fortunately I had the ultimate supply, free offcuts from an industrial plant upgrade, I overkilled it as I had plenty so did both the underside and top of the replacement fibreglass tunnel, a great improvement.

original engine fed hot water heating is free and probably has no effect on car/engine performance, an electric heater will require a bigger alternator and hence power sapping effect on engine performance, the magnetude of which I don't know, but I assume watts can be related to hp and load. I'd always fix the original system, there must be an aftermarket or other car heater core that can be adapted! Our Vitesse, Sprint and Spitfire heaters have always been very effective in curling our toes up, even tho we probably don't need such effective heaters here! The Vitesse heater would dry my shoes off and keep me toasty even on the Nth York Moors!

Ha! Don't have the problem even when the Sprint was stored outside in Melbourne's climes under a waterproof cover, tho it was started and run every month, no salt here!! Nearly locked the neighbours cat in once, it loves to crawl in when I'm working on the car, it's Burmese & I'm king!,

looking at the photo of the red and green circles on the passenger side the btm right larger hole has obviously been drilled out as you can see the 4 indent marks of the spot weld which holds the captive nut plate

On both the Vitesse and Dolly Sprint the slide issues was down to the guides being bowed over time, straightened and they are great now, daughters Mk2 Spit slide great, but I did strip a anchor nut thread with it getting carpet bound, so I burnt the loose carpet with a bit of old gal pipe around the mounting holes to ensure no repeat & heli-coiled the damaged nut!

attached are the Triumph Dealer Notes re Crankcase Breather Valve hope it helps, I've done it quickly as I'm going out if they need making clearer I'll do it later Regards Peter T

I have a blue and white one which was restored by a very close friend and TEG club member here who unfortunately died too young so it is a treasured heirloom, he even put my first Heralds rego on it (1200Convertible) JBA37D & made a very authentic air filter for it, & the detail painting is a lot better than the original Added photos of the Doc's excellent work.

I had a Vespa scooter (Sportique) early 63 (still at school) but I used to crash/slide on the black ice heading home across the York Moors. Remember once ripped the side of my ankle on the kick start, blood everywhere when I got home, yelled “mum need help” she took one look then said I need a double whiskey first before I bandage that, subsequently needed 5 stitches. My cousin still says he can see the scratch marks on the bridge at Hutton Rugby across the river Levin where I side swiped the stone wall the full length, but I did stay upright! Crashed that many times parents upgraded me to a car after 6 months, but don’t get too envious it was a year old Goggomobil T300, the most fun I ever had went everywhere in it at Runswick Bay you had to back up the hill not enough grunt forwards!

just ordered one for novelty value, will personely keep using the medical grade disposal ones.

could the position of the wheel also be dictated by the necessary size of wheel to be able to easily turn the wheel when parking and the min reqd distance between the wheel and the drivers door?

Your lucky he didn't select STOP! KeeBoom

I get there eventually,

Pete have you ever displaced a thread of the Heli coil when you tap the little shear leg off, it’s happened to me a couple of times which has necessitated me pulling the coil out and insert a new heli coil thread. Is it me just being hamfisted

Ditto! Nick Cylinder bearings every where reason why 2 of the V notch slides had 9 cylinders and the opposing 2 V slides only 8, also a right bu**er to put back compounded with the retainer sleeves. I'd show a picture but its to hard to reassemble, as stated it was on a Mk2 66 Spit CKD assembled here in Aus.

I’ve owned my 68 Vitesse Mk2 since 1970 and in all that time the prop shaft sliding joint has been at the diff end. Never thought about it being the opposite way

Remember to put the brake and fuel lines on the chassis before putting the rear tub on as there a bu**er to fit afterwards.

The daughters Mk2 Spit engine is Ferrari Red makes it go faster! Similar story it was that colour and to hard to remove.

how fast did you have to go to get that amount of sweep back on the wing mirrors? I know it gives you a better viewing angle! Is that a MoWog coloured engine block? Agree with the block brass drain plug easier and safer than the plug valve, the spring on the valve isn't stainless and could disintergrate, causing it to leak.

I think I see the sliding sleeve at the rear of the engine bracket so there is no compression/twisting or shearing load on the rear alt fixing, which could easily shear if simply clamped up.

The daughters Mk2 Spit was Aus CKD assembled by AMI (Aust Motor Industries), and I think I read somewhere that prop shafts were locally sourced to meet the 20-25% local content to get import tax credits. The propshaft that was replaced with a new Hardy Spicer sliding joint unit was also sliding jointed BUT the joint didn't employ splines but 4 V shaped grooves @ 90 degrees around the splined assembly & which had 9 or 10 cylindrical bearings in each V say 3/16in dia by 3/16in long with each cylindrical bearing placed in the opposite direction to the next, this assembly had 2 retaining sleeves and was then slid into similar V shaped slides in the female or outer part of the sliding joint. I've always put the sliding joint at the diff end, somewhere I think I read in the thread a recommendation to put it at the gearbox end, and I've read elsewhere similar, is there a right and wrong way?

The Spit prop wouldn’t balance, so with the daughter being an aero space Eng and a vibration analysis expert and once she started on primary, secondary, and Xth order vibration, Sympathetic vibrations I got Hardy Spicer here to make a new one, finally success at last all smooth, but at a high cost, the advantage was I didn’t have to pretend I understood!