Peter Truman

your fingers!

Photo's of the Battery in the Boot Set Up, the battery box is fixed to an aluminum plate bolted thro the floor with different length tube sleeved bolts that ensure the battery is horizontal. My Vitesse doesn't have the normal steel sprung rear seat it was missing when I got the Conv rear tub, I'd had to make a timber frame with foam on then cut and re-stitch the old saloon matador seat covers to fit. Consequently it was easy to make clearance for the cable coming thro the floor. Where the cable comes over the front outrigger it needs some extra fixing and protection, I think I might reroute it behind the High Torque Starter, neater too. The P clips are bolted using Rivnuts in the chassis side. The battery box cover protects the DIY negative isolator connection. Still a work in progress but nearly there, there again I might redo it similar to Pete's old Vitesse I've measured it up & I think it's do-able even with the Aussie PBR Servo.

Colin my rear outrigger also has a semi circular cut out where welded to the chassis, and the front a hole right thro front and strengthener , but I went over the top of the front outrigger under the floor panel.When I get up and dressed I'll attch photos

My battery tray is already removed to fit the servo, so that's sorted and the battery could be clamped to the floor of the bulkhead, I have 6 extra fuses mounted inboard of the existing fuse box which require access.

Pete please have you any other shots straight on & from top, I fitted the battery in the boot Drivers side and cable goes over the diff hump then thro floor along the RH chassis backbone outside thro the outrigger holes and over the top of the front outrigger to the solenoid. pics later. But I do like Pete's solution if my PBR Servo would fit, brake pipe fits in the end of the cylinder.

I've converted my 68 Mk2 Vitesse from saloon to convertible using an early Aus CKD Herald Conv rear tub believed by the number to e around 1960, all Aus built and delivered only minor rust was behind B post where the conv roof is folded down just had to cut out the bottom 1in of the lower side panel and replace, after 50 years. I had some bracket issues tho, extra's and of course the rotaflex handbrake cable route.

Is this still the Estate and these repairs after the respray how disappointing for you. I've seen new side panels on ebay, but the damage in fitting them Uugh!

Just make sure the end of the cable has no barb on it from when it was shear cut originally to get stuck on the outer sheath, file it smooth like a blunt point.

Have you tried pulling the inner out straightening, then lubricating and re installing. When I was young I had a Vespa scooter and I brought a cable lubricator (brought with present from grandma) fitted over the non knob end and pumped oil thro the cable always got good results still have the lubricator used it on the Vitesse and Spit in the last 5 years and all cables still work well.

The original Tudor Bottle was about the size quoted, the Spit and Vitesse both had them. I can confirm when you go to an electric pump it empties pretty quick, a lot easier to keep the button pushed just to get that last smear off!

Wasn’t Redex supposed to clean the engine, remember putting to many shots in late 60’s and smoke everywhere!

I have a pristine Spit 4 (no side drip rail) bare windscreen frame, but it doesn't show any markings for the pull down clamps. If you fit the new frame and position the clamps unlocked you should be able to mark the reqd holes and use Steel RivNuts of the appropriate dia to anchor the clamp to the frame. That's what I did when converting my Mk2 Vitesse Saloon to a proper Convertible

Don’t shoot me, but weren’t the earlier single speed wiper motors live being supplied direct form the ign + and the circuit is closed by the switch to earth, whereas the two speed motors are supplied with + ign power from the switch and the circuit is completed at the motor ie earthed. But a switch just breaks the circuit so I wouldn’t/shouldn’t have any effect!

Just seen a 2 speed wiper switch WITH connections for a elect water pump on ebay item 353374949502 priced a 35 quid.

It could be said were a clumsy lot, or it's that were a DIY lot, and enjoy the challenge! My brother died last week 8 yrs my senior, at the funeral I happened to think back to our youth in the late 50's when we built a Guy Faulks bon fire on the vacant block opposite our house complete with straw figure on top, having finished we and others stood back to admire our work, when I felt a sharp pain in my left foot a garden fork had impaled it, my brother said I had done it myself I responded how come your holding the handle! The worst pain was to come with the trip to the doctors on the back of his DKW scooter which had a DIY very hard rear seat to get the jab in my backside I was sure the doc had left the needle in! Come to think of it he never did apologise!

I helicoiled one it worked not a screw you use much so it’s OK

I’ve known my doctor nearly 50yrs every time I go in to see him what have you done now. Bet you haven’t scalped yourself late one night taking the rubbish out I walked into the garage roller door which was partly down, my doctor said a specialist couldn’t have done as good a job with a laser! Mind you he’s no better last year he fell off his hobby farm barn roof and broke his back in a brace for 6 months, all his contempories have never let him live that one down! His wife was a nurse so you know what sympathy he got.

Karl been there and done that as most of us wiil have done, it's a moment where we want a "time machine" just to go back 5 secs, Karl I bet you didn't mutter one swear word it hurts too much to even open the mouth! Nails have a memory and mine still cracks at the end where It broke just to remind me!

I converted my Vitesse one by removing the bellows and fitting a push switch for the washers in the aluminum container similar to Pete's option, the only issue is its easy enough to push the knob in to make contact and spray water but there is too much friction with the hex shaft going thro the main original wiper switch body and the electric contact doesn't easily automatically push back requiring the knob to be manually pulled back, the return spring in the washer switch isn't strong enough.

Colin not what I was expecting to find, I thought there was a "Triumph Training Notes" or Notice covering the Disc Conversion, but I did find this hard copy, source unknown which I've scanned in. I don't know if it's of any value to you and by the high page numbers I assume its probably from a Workshop Manual Accessories Section.

Triumph issued a notification on how to convert ie fit the disc conversion from drums I think I have a copy but it may take a while to locate ie tomorrow when I’m up just doing an early AM get a drink at the moment.

Logical Roger thanks for the advice, unfortunately you can't beat a Gorilla! Must admit I've generally stayed with UNF but have heli-coiled the damaged threads, seems to provide longlevity and perceived strength.

The Triumph speciality always got me of using UNF threads in alloy, Why, UNC is required or the thread will strip! I think I read somewhere it was a Harry Webster spec, obviously a personal hang up! Because there was no logic in it.

I think from memory the Herald/Spit front upright was also used by Brabham in his Formulea 1 cars, looked very similar not sure re the trunnion set up tho.

I got a new set of new LH & RH type 12 calipers for the daughters Mk2 Spit around 20yrs ago from a chap who used to race Formulea Vee he advised they were used on those models, maybe worth a check up to see availability?