Peter Truman

Iain on water supply pressure reducing valves the rate of opening and closure of the valve is controlled by a Wade Needle Valve, where the size of the orifice around the needle regulates the rate of flow to a pilot valve (etal like our carbs), we used to regularly use as small as 1/8in, maybe one could be plumbed/fitted in the devils pipe to allow adjustment to what's acceptable, The orifice used to be so small a filter was reqd to stop any obstruction, but I'd just mark the valves position and open up to flush thro & then reset.

Well with the first COVID lockdown in March and only a 2 week break before the second Wave lockdown 3 months ago here in Melbourne we hadn’t been able to physically catch up with our friends, so with the relaxation of local city travel from 5klm essential travel to 25klm and 5 people outside gatherings we got together BUT they live 35klm away so we met halfway at a BP motorway/freeway service centre (where we still can’t eat inside yet) drove in convoy thro Macca’s “drive in” for burger and coffee then parked in the car park with a car park place between us and had a 2 hr natter at 1.5mts distance and masks and exchanged Triumph parts we needed. Only trouble was we had to park the cars an TR4 and Dolly Sprint opposite 6 council rubbish collection trucks all different councils so it must be on the rubbish tip route! We were organised tho came with our own chairs temp only 17C but us balding blokes got badly burned on top will wear the Akubra next time my old scruffy one was on the back seat. It was great to see friends again, still can’t get to the daughters tho she’s 29klm away and the rozzers have a roadblock checking your travel is within restrictions at the 25klm limit! BUGGER!

Roger I have a alloy one spare but it's a long way away if your really stuck i can post shouldn't be to bad Regards Peter T

Yes the plastic ones are sh t I was fortunate enough to pick up a Few older metal ones which lock up a lot better and the grub screw can be tightened down. If I hadn’t found the metal ones reckon I’d have made some from m/steel bar. It would be worth asking members if they have any Old spare ones

found my headlight push pull switch's 3No. they were all the same, I continunity tested one switch across the spade contacts; 1. Top left I assume is battery power in. 2. Top centre right would appear to be dash lights connection 3. Bottom right headlight connection Switch pushed in is "OFF" Switch at intermediate position is "headlights & dash lights ON". Switch fully pulled out "headlights only ON" no dash lights. Interestingly top right doesn't appear connected, or is it just a bad contact, I only tried one switch should have checked all!

the multi connector push pull switch's are around i have seen them on specialist Lucas switch supplier websites they may have 6 connections, I thought I had some but cannot find them now toggles, I have many!. interestingly my Mk2 Vitesse heater fan toggle switch packed up a couple of weeks ago the spring that loads the ball broke! The Lucas toggle I fitted was the usual one with the spade terminals in different positions ie one at 45 degrees but it still cleared the ash tray, the Switch in the Mk2 Spit is the same as this one whereas the original Vitesse one had two straight out spades. If I fitted the 45 degree spade down then the 'on' position was 'up' ie the toggle was upside down hey it works and if I see an original Lucas straight out two spade switch on the car shows i"ll get a replacement.

I’ve been watching it live down here in Australia looked like a nice day, only draw back in the interviews with their masks on very hard to hear and understand, funny enough the ladies are the easiest and clearest to hear. The drivers of the pre 20’s racers very brave but I assume with 24litre engine there’s enough dead weight to keep those thin tyres anchored to the road.

I’ve seen pic’s of banjo’s fitted to some calipers which use a copper sealing washer both sides, but I assume there should be a machined landing or mating surface on the part being sealed/bolted to.

Well it ain’t called a worry gauge for nowt!

What’s the recommendation with a Mk3 frame that has badly worn and loose joints. The Mk3 frame joints are riveted not bolted So would have to be drilled out and replaced with shanked bolts

Not roof racks but a Herald 1200 convertible, when we got married in 68 the first house we brought had a large main bedroom 20 by 12 ft, and I fitted built in wardrobes (5No 3ft wide wardrobes and a 5 ft dressing table) along the 20ft outside wall made up from 8 by 4 blackboard sheets. I had the 8 by 4 sheets cut in half ie 2 ft wide and transported them home in two trips by pushing the passenger seat up against the windscreen and jamming the 8 by 2 cut sheets under the lifted up seat and hanging out the back resting on the conv rear seat top of the vertical backrest. The front seat seat belts helped hold the cut sheets down, there was a lot of overhang out the back. Nothing like a good aerofoil to keep the back wheels on the ground! It was a few months before I fitted the doors so the wife used to lay in bed looking into the Open fronted wardrobes choosing what to wear for the day! That poor little Herald did well never complained, we lived in a Yorkshire market town and the police were hot on speeding cars but never stopped me on the 25 mile trip home. The doors cut from 6 by 3 sheets were brought from the local hardware store which doubled as the Undertaker he delivered them in the back of the hearse!

Where’s the earth strap across the old assembled joint how did the steering column earth to get the horn to work. I think I just used a length of baling wire to lock the bolts always have some in the garage. Have you are you going to do the modification suggested sometimes on the forum of filing out one side of Each end of the clamp so it gets a more effective clamping effect. My daughters Spit assembly has loosened a couple of times permitting the steering wheel to be pulled up it wouldn’t have slid off but extremely disconcerting.

I’ve always managed to get a car home under it’s own power when a clutch has failed or it’s hydraulics but brakes I’d do a Colin and park at the roadside I used to have a satellite phone never let me down! Who watch’s Coronation St or Neighbours! Sorry!

Not GT6 but TR6 related a couple of years ago a friend who isn't to mech minded rang to say his clutch master was leaking and we had a club run on the Sunday so a quick check showed a trailer brake master was the same bore/piston dia and pipe threads so I picked one up from the local trailer suppliers $25, drove the 50klm down the bay to his place and an hour later it was fitted and bled so we celebrated with a glass of red, clutch and car still going well. To buy a new Girlock on Triumph supplier master was nearly $200, even repaired S/S sleeved around $110. Interestingly I had a brake master re-sleeved once and rather than the thin stainless steel sleeve it was a thicker chromed brass sleeve looked a lot more substantial the supplier said it avoided the sharp edge of the hole drilled thro from the reservoir! that master is in the Vitesse and no problems. Moral do a little homework and clutch's ain't brakes so there not life dependent!

one of our members here in Vic has a Stag and he has a business installing hospital patient lifting hoists over each bed, ie anchoring into the ceiling structure and having forward/back and left/right traversing. Obviously he has acquired one of these well engineered units and used it with it's rails to install and remove his Stags roof. One advantage is he doesn't have to park the Stag in exactly the same spot every time as the winch can traverse.

I didn’t get a club one but being a cheapskate for the Mk2 Vitesse I modified a second hand Lucas hazard switch from a 2000/2500 it was relatively easy I replaced the single bullet connectors where the normal indicator Switch cables came Out of the steering column with double bullet female sleeve connectors and put the hazard switch cables into those ie RH, LH indicator cables and the ignition source supply that went to the column indicator switch. The only other source I had to find was a battery supply which I fused and took off the ignition switch, but equally it could have been taken from the solenoid. My only problem is that I need to frequently have to give them a go as the contacts appear to get dirty/tarnished, I have to pull/push the switch a few times. Interesting fact I wanted to change the incandescent warning bulb with a LED But it wouldn’t work I finally worked it out the supply in the hazard switch for the bulb bottom contact is actually a negative supply the bulb outer case being positive. Polarity doesn’t affect an incandescent bulb BUT LED’s are polarity sensitive. I’ve got another cheapie l set up to do the daughters Mk2 Spit when we get out of lockdown! Luckily years ago At Stafford When on a UK holiday I brought around 20 double bullet connector sleeves.

Would be pretty rare over there, wonder if it’s still Triumph powered. don’t they require a virtual rebuild after as low as 3 years to keep a car on the road, always assumed it was to make keeping an old car uneconomic so buy a new one and keep the economy going!

if I remember the early square ones had a little black push button, knowing that I modified the later square ones by drilling a small hole in the raised (boss) plastic & fitting a small plastic rod into it which I can push to remotely operate the starter. Being an Yorkshireman dragged up in Australia I was taught "Where there's a will there's a way'.

I believe the 80's GM Pontiac Fiero, a 2 door sports coupe had composite body panels and the composite (plastic) door skins were bolted on, easily removed for internal repairs and cheap to replace if damaged. I looked at buying one in the late 80's but couldn't accept the heavy 4 potter cast iron lump in the rear! Some I believe had a V6 engine, the engine/transmission was a mid rear location, for a yank tank looked good.

Is the October Courier available yet on the website? Regards Peter T

I used my dynamo bracket when converting to an alternator as stated the spacer stub had to be shortened but whilst modifying I made it lighter by drilling largish holes in the bracket all over, why! Cause It just seemed to heavy and seemed the right thing to do! I think there are 3 different Lucas alternator pulleys I assume the size Used is determined by the Crankshaft pulley size.

Done the same except the glove box!

Further to above post an why you've been asleep I've been shopping and thinking why would my tank originally have been fitted with a larger pipe? From the late 50's to mid 60's Heralds were assembled here in Melbourne by AMI (Associated Motor Industries) from UK supplied CKD kits, but to minimise import tax's 20% of the car had to be locally supplied,. In the case of the Triumph Herald, Spitfires and 2000/2500, this included all electrics (Lucas Aus) propshafts, radiator's, hoses, and all upholstery manufacture. Now if radiators were locally manufactured why not fuel tanks, what are the possible clues, looking at Colin's photos the reserve slide bracket is spot welded to the tank, where as mine looks brazed, similarily the pipe boss on Colin's looks brazed in vs mine possibly welded there's a lot more fill on there. Re as to why the possible Aus made tank uses larger suction pipes, I would assume that whoever made the tanks also made tanks for the local car manufactured cars eg Holden, Falcon, Valiant, which being bigger 6 cylinder cars would use the bigger 5/16in fuel pipe and the manufacturer would possibly standardized on piping. AMI also assembled Ramblers, Mercedes & Toyota's, with Toyota ultimately taking over the business (70's to 80's) and stopping building Triumphs which was transferred to Leyland Aus, unfortunately Toyota binned ALL AMI's records re Triumph production and history, so everything is here say..

Interesting about the different sized pipes in the Herald & Vitesse tanks, it's logical, the NOS small tank I have is equipped with a 0.315in OD tank internal curved suction pipe & similar ID sized brass sealing plug this pipe is the same OD size as the Vitesse fuel delivery pipe in the boot and passing thro the floor. Question why do I have the big Vitesse tank curved internal suction pipe (0.315in) in the smaller NOS Herald type tank, so does the NOS fuel tank come equipped with the internal curved suction pipe or do you have to transfer over the old pipe wgen fitting a new tank, ie could someone previously have done the Vitesse pipe conversion on my NOS Herald tank? Colin I've attached a photo of the smaller Herald tank with it's larger suction pipe outlet from the tank, the hole in the outlet boss has a slightly raised lip similar to both yours Colin and at the bottom of the steel boss it has a slightly smaller dia due to swarf so I don't think its been drilled oversize, it also appears to have the internal tinning through the hole. Photo incorrectly titled & should be "The Smaller Herald tank with the larger piped outlet fitting" ie Vitesse!. Is anything "Standard" on a "Triumph"

The tank I removed the suction pipe from was a NOS Stanpart part, I can’t remember any olive under the brass sleeve and as Colin said the pipe is a neat fit in the brass sleeve not tight. I was really responding as to what stopped the supply pipe pulling out, ie the Reserve lever and guide. As I have converted the tank to a gravity feed thro the drain plug I have removed the suction pipe from the top and fitted a blank plug. Obviously the parts manual should be as it was assembled.