Chris A Posted June 17, 2022 Report Share Posted June 17, 2022 If this is a daft question put it down to the temperature here being mid 30's. I went out for run in the Triumph today, 133 miles round trip, on virtually the last section before getting back on my main road I gave the car a bit more boot than the rest of the trip, I often do on this section just to clear the pipes etc, you understand. Well, I noticed that both the temp and petrol gauges were reading zero. They started to go back to normal almost straight away. They can't have been at zero for long as I had been keeping a close eye on the temp gauge. Back home all fine again. There could suddenly have been a break in the circuit, the unit could be about to give up the ghost or: If the electronics got particularly hot could they simply have shut down until they cooled off? I have't checked anything out - 'too darn hot'. Thread drift (already) : Super run out, clear open country roads virtually no traffic. Lots of squiggly- wiggly bits, loads of uppy-downy bits & even sections with both at the same time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted June 17, 2022 Report Share Posted June 17, 2022 6 minutes ago, Chris A said: squiggly- wiggly bits, its too hot but its these that caiused the blackout its fed from a green wire on the fuse box and thats a good place to have a clean up the fuse end caps and the weeny fuse terminal clips Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris A Posted June 17, 2022 Author Report Share Posted June 17, 2022 24 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said: its too hot but its these that caiused the blackout its fed from a green wire on the fuse box and thats a good place to have a clean up the fuse end caps and the weeny fuse terminal clips 38 minutes ago, Chris A said: squiggly- wiggly bits You've been out in the sun too from what I gather from your kind reply. Fed from green wire on the fuse box? What green wire & what fuse box, we're talking about a basic 13/60 here 😜. the stabiliser is fed via ignition switch with a white wire. The stabiliser is under the dash by the steering wheel, I have no idea how hot it gets under there. Although I can get hot under the collar when I have to rummage about there! Correction: Just noticed your location, Luton! Probably still mid winter there 😁 Seriously, thanks for replying. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted June 17, 2022 Report Share Posted June 17, 2022 Are you sure which type of voltage stabiliser you have fitted, the original electro-mechanical or modern electronic upgrade? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougbgt6 Posted June 17, 2022 Report Share Posted June 17, 2022 I would suspect a loose wire or as Pete says the fuse box. Electronics keeps working at a much higher temperature than we had today. I did a valuation this morning, a very nice GT6 mk3 with a blue interior and blue rear seat, you don't see many of those about! But blimey was it hot in there, couldn't touch the steering wheel. Doug Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeteH Posted June 17, 2022 Report Share Posted June 17, 2022 The Original Voltage Stabilisers would? have been of the Thermal strip type. The voltage/current heats the strip and the circuit breaks, this keeps repeating at frequency sufficient to keep the voltage circa 10V. IF you overheat them they remain open until the device cools, Under the dash in 30+C it will likely be hot enough to cause a brief loss of power?. Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris A Posted June 17, 2022 Author Report Share Posted June 17, 2022 1 hour ago, johny said: Are you sure which type of voltage stabiliser you have fitted, the original electro-mechanical or modern electronic upgrade? Definitely electronic, fitted by yours truly 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris A Posted June 17, 2022 Author Report Share Posted June 17, 2022 25 minutes ago, dougbgt6 said: I would suspect a loose wire or as Pete says the fuse box. Electronics keeps working at a much higher temperature than we had today. When it cools down, after the weekend, I'll check out the connections in case one is a little iffy. It's been hot all week and getting hotter each day. Today was too hot to garden or fiddle with the car so out for a drive. Tomorrow is going to be even hotter 38/40, well above levels for June in Normandy. Fruit to pick tomorrow, think I'll get up at 'silly o'clock' to do it. The hedge can wait until next week. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NonMember Posted June 17, 2022 Report Share Posted June 17, 2022 Just before taking my GT6 off the road for a clutch change (and new gearbox cover, and H-frame, and...) the fuel and temperature gauges started playing up, similar to your problem except they spent more time not reading. As I was taking it all apart, and had a spare regulator, I removed the dash and replaced it. That made no difference at all. Further investigation showed that the fault was, as Pete and Doug said, a bad contact on the fuse box. It's a fine design that can leave you with half of your green circuit working and the other half not. However, with yours being a minimalist car, that's the one place you don't need to look for bad connections. It's possible that a cheap (Chinese?) electronic regulator might fail due to 40 degree ambient but it wouldn't be likely to recover. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougbgt6 Posted June 17, 2022 Report Share Posted June 17, 2022 25 minutes ago, NonMember said: It's a fine design that can leave you with half of your green circuit working and the other half not. I think we should start a thread "The worst thing Triumph ever designed" It's got to be the fuse box. Or the hole in the bulk head that's too small to get the bell housing out. Or......................... Doug Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD Posted June 17, 2022 Report Share Posted June 17, 2022 Half shafts with a step change in diameter at the outer end. Half circumference thrust bearings. Never producing a cross flow engine! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wagger Posted June 17, 2022 Report Share Posted June 17, 2022 2 hours ago, NonMember said: Just before taking my GT6 off the road for a clutch change (and new gearbox cover, and H-frame, and...) the fuel and temperature gauges started playing up, similar to your problem except they spent more time not reading. As I was taking it all apart, and had a spare regulator, I removed the dash and replaced it. That made no difference at all. Further investigation showed that the fault was, as Pete and Doug said, a bad contact on the fuse box. It's a fine design that can leave you with half of your green circuit working and the other half not. However, with yours being a minimalist car, that's the one place you don't need to look for bad connections. It's possible that a cheap (Chinese?) electronic regulator might fail due to 40 degree ambient but it wouldn't be likely to recover. My Vitesse did this last week, and then the temp and fuel gauge were dancing against the low end stop. Indicators ceased working too. Yes, it was the dirty fuse terminals. Verdigri strikes again! Must get a bladed box and try to mount it where it won't get sprayed with battery vapour. The thread drift does state it as a bad design. More significant is where they put it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NonMember Posted June 17, 2022 Report Share Posted June 17, 2022 2 hours ago, JohnD said: Never producing a cross flow engine! Dolomite / TR7? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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