Josef Posted August 17, 2022 Report Share Posted August 17, 2022 It’ll be fiddly, but an alternative is to get an appropriately sized washer on to the inside end of the rivet. Then you’ll sandwich the body between the washer and hood popper. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RichTeaBiscuit Posted August 17, 2022 Author Report Share Posted August 17, 2022 Thanks guys, I did wonder if the holes would cause an issue. Do you just use a standard metal file to file down a rivet? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanMi Posted August 17, 2022 Report Share Posted August 17, 2022 I have not had the little hooks at the front for 30 years, they were there for a bit e tra security ie to stop someone taking the front of the hood off from outside, but they can still take the back off so pretty pointless Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanMi Posted August 17, 2022 Report Share Posted August 17, 2022 When riveting you will need something to space the head of the rivet inthe popper recess or it will not tighten. I use an old rivet head0 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NonMember Posted August 17, 2022 Report Share Posted August 17, 2022 52 minutes ago, DanMi said: When riveting you will need something to space the head of the rivet inthe popper recess Good point - your rivet 'gun' will be way too fat. I used a stubby off-cut of brake pipe last time I did it. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badwolf Posted August 18, 2022 Report Share Posted August 18, 2022 I used a small nut ( or two) over the stem of the rivet. Useful in that if it did get stuck in the popper, I could pull it out with pointed pliers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RichTeaBiscuit Posted August 18, 2022 Author Report Share Posted August 18, 2022 I measured the screw that was in the hole, it was a 8 gauge (4.2mm). Hopefully a 4mm rivet will do it. They were originally supposed to be 3mm rivets. Ordered these short rivets. Stanley 1-PAA52T 4mm Short Aluminium Rivets (20 Pieces) : Amazon.co.uk: DIY & Tools Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badwolf Posted August 18, 2022 Report Share Posted August 18, 2022 I have been using these sealed rivets for some time. I was advised that there was less chance of the ball thingie coming loose after compressing the rivet, falling out and rattling around in an enclosed space.. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/182572540814 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Truman Posted August 18, 2022 Report Share Posted August 18, 2022 Think there called blind rivets Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RichTeaBiscuit Posted September 16, 2022 Author Report Share Posted September 16, 2022 Anyone have any tips/advice for me installing a new soft top on the mk2? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Cooper Posted September 16, 2022 Report Share Posted September 16, 2022 Start by fitting the frame into the sockets on the b posts. Push down on the frame to compress the springs and lock it in the compressed state by rotating the stems in the sockets so that the pins engage in the cutouts. If you find that these are a bit stiff then lubricate them by rubbing a soft pencil up and down the stems to put some graphite into the sockets. Place the soft top over the frame and tuck the metal reinforced edge under the lip at the front of the windscreen frame capping. If your soft top has the poppers already fitted then pop these in place at the ends of the windscreen capping. if your new hood hasn't come with the poppers already fitted (they usually don't) then move on to pulling the rear edge of the hood backwards and fitting your new steel bar into the 2 chrome clips on the rear deck. Now you can mark where the hood poppers need to be fitted on the front edge of the soft top (if they haven't been factory fitted) and the poppers where the hood attaches to the rear deck (should be 3 each side). Take the hood off again and fit the poppers. The soft top also attaches round the front frame bar with a flap and 3 or 4 further poppers. Repeat the above steps. Once the hood is clipped in place and the poppers attached, rotate the 2 frame stems to release the spring tension in the frame. Pull out the elastic tensioners at the front of the draught excluders and clip them to the hooks near the top of the windscreen frame, partly hidden under the rubber moulding and pull the rear ones back round the frame to the poppers fitted on the frame uprights. Easy. Adrian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RichTeaBiscuit Posted September 17, 2022 Author Report Share Posted September 17, 2022 Thanks Adrian for that detailed writeup. Great tip with the graphite. It's more straight forward than I had thought - though I think I'm going to take the opportunity to replace the windscreen capping first as the one I currently have has a few extra holes in it - previous owner has gone at it with a drill. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RichTeaBiscuit Posted November 30, 2022 Author Report Share Posted November 30, 2022 Stupid question alert - how do I fit the poppers? Is there some sort of tool that cuts the vinyl and connects both sides? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanMi Posted November 30, 2022 Report Share Posted November 30, 2022 yes though I have used a leather puch and a nail before https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-RX1342 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Josef Posted November 30, 2022 Report Share Posted November 30, 2022 31 minutes ago, RichTeaBiscuit said: Stupid question alert - how do I fit the poppers? Is there some sort of tool that cuts the vinyl and connects both sides? Sadly not. You have to use a punch like this one to make the holes. Then a tool like the one shown here to hammer the durable dots together. There are ratcheting plier type tools to do the second step but they’re rather more expensive than the ‘smack it with a hammer’ type. Both those links are random examples rather than recommendations of specific tools to buy! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris A Posted November 30, 2022 Report Share Posted November 30, 2022 We've got both those plus a set of hole punches, they are really my wife's from her days as a theatre costumière, although it is always me that uses them. It depends on the material which works better, the punch & hammer is a better bet if you are going to buy something. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeteH Posted December 1, 2022 Report Share Posted December 1, 2022 Very similar to eyeletting tools for making tie down sheets/groundsheets etc: Lidle BTW had some Punch pliers in their collection a month or two back?. A Punch/hammer combo will probably be more effective on a heavy vynl Cover?. I found that a Lead Block made cutting easier, and saved the punch, and can be "recast" (sand mould, old pan and the stove) when it gets too mutilated, Lead was a "leftover" from a house build 20 years ago. Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris A Posted December 1, 2022 Report Share Posted December 1, 2022 2 hours ago, PeteH said: I found that a Lead Block made cutting easier, and saved the punch, I have a piece of chipboard that I use, when it gets too damaged use another bit Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RichTeaBiscuit Posted March 1, 2023 Author Report Share Posted March 1, 2023 Finally got round to fitting the new top. Does the frame push further down into the B post brackets? It looks like it may do but I can't seem to get it down more. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Cooper Posted March 1, 2023 Report Share Posted March 1, 2023 Yes, the frame on mine goes down until the tabs are nearly touching the trim on the edge of the deck/wing. I have the hardtop on at the moment but I'll have a look at the frame and see if there are any witnesses marks I could measure. Adrian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Cooper Posted March 1, 2023 Report Share Posted March 1, 2023 (edited) I've been out to the garage and it looks like the frame goes into the mounting tube for just under 10cm. There is no paint on my frame where it goes into the mounting tubes and it is quite a snug fit. You seem to have good thickness of paint on yours and that won't be helping. Edited March 1, 2023 by Adrian Cooper Had another idea 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RichTeaBiscuit Posted March 1, 2023 Author Report Share Posted March 1, 2023 Brilliant Adrian thank you. I'll try a bit of lube and gently coax it in. Hoping to go to a local meet up on Saturday, and I'm sick of freezing my nuts off driving the car with no roof on! Plus, just in case it rains... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RichTeaBiscuit Posted March 2, 2023 Author Report Share Posted March 2, 2023 Doesn't seem to go in any further. The bottom of the brackets are bent inwards to stop it coming out the bottom, is that correct? Measures 10cm in the tube then 9cm from top of tube to the notches that lock it down. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NonMember Posted March 2, 2023 Report Share Posted March 2, 2023 That looks like it's all the way in, then. How high is the hoop when fitted? Can you stretch the fabric over it? If you can, then the frame is as far down as you'd want it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RichTeaBiscuit Posted March 2, 2023 Author Report Share Posted March 2, 2023 Thanks, yea I can just about probably stretch the top to fit the poppers, just seems very very tight before the frame is popped up. I think part of my issue is the hood is in my cold garage, needs to warm up a bit to make it a bit more flexible. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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