Worrying noise

[cliff.b]

3 hours ago, johny said:

As said previously, I would have thought if its the flywheel holding the clutch disengaged with the engine running must make some difference to the noise....

Yes, makes sense, but I have now tried it and it doesn't seem to make any difference. I will take the starter off when I get time and see if that reveals anything.

 

Also, if I can start the engine without the starter fitted then it might be clearer where the noise is coming from. 

[Pete Lewis]

i have seen with risk of limb and fingers a starter removed once the engine was started  

this was worse  than risky and needs nerves of steel and a steady hand to extracate the bendix without findint the revolving flywheel 

dont try it at home  

this was  rear mounted on a diesel and no bendix drive   far simpler !!!!

if a flywheel bolt has losts its torque the mass will clatter but not show any hand derived movement 

the sump off on the 4 cyl from going under is quite easy , you may need to drop the rack mounts 

on the 6 pot its can be a right fight but down and dirty  can work well if you need to check the thrusts but the float quoted looks OK 

so do we start a book on gearbox off ??????

Pete

 

[johny]

Testing the running engine oil pressure will be another useful test. I bought a little cheap gauge off ebay that once in a while after a run I screw into the block in place of the oil pressure switch to see whats going on...

[NonMember]

6 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said:

the sump off on the 4 cyl from going under is quite easy

On a standard one, yes, but if you have a tubular manifold fitted (as I think Cliff has) then some of the bolts are rather inaccessible and the space for removal is decidedly tight.

[cliff.b]

2 hours ago, Pete Lewis said:

i have seen with risk of limb and fingers a starter removed once the engine was started  

this was worse  than risky and needs nerves of steel and a steady hand to extracate the bendix without findint the revolving flywheel 

dont try it at home  

this was  rear mounted on a diesel and no bendix drive   far simpler !!!!

if a flywheel bolt has losts its torque the mass will clatter but not show any hand derived movement 

the sump off on the 4 cyl from going under is quite easy , you may need to drop the rack mounts 

on the 6 pot its can be a right fight but down and dirty  can work well if you need to check the thrusts but the float quoted looks OK 

so do we start a book on gearbox off ??????

Pete

 

Hmm, yes, I decided removing the starter while the engine was running probably wouldn't be a good idea so was thinking more bump starting it rolling down the drive. 

 

As for dropping the sump, it's not so much the complexity of the job as me lying under the car on my back working on it. Maybe I could manage it 🤔

 

Based on the fact that the pulley but fell off and the number of other things I have found loose on the car, I would not be at all surprised if it's a flywheel bolt. 

 

I will try and get some further opinions on the noise before taking the gearbox out though.

[cliff.b]

2 hours ago, johny said:

Testing the running engine oil pressure will be another useful test. I bought a little cheap gauge off ebay that once in a while after a run I screw into the block in place of the oil pressure switch to see whats going on...

I have a gauge fitted. No idea how accurate but the pressures seen hadn't changed recently, but they are a little higher overall since I changed the oil on Tuesday.

[Pete Lewis]

as the crank end float was in spec i would cross that off your to do list for now 

certainly whip the pulley off and check the keyway is sound  as an easier job to start with especially as its been in the frame previously 

Pete

[cliff.b]

2 hours ago, NonMember said:

On a standard one, yes, but if you have a tubular manifold fitted (as I think Cliff has) then some of the bolts are rather inaccessible and the space for removal is decidedly tight.

The manifold is standard but I'm not certain if the downpipe that connects to it is. 

When I was underneath checking if anything was knocking I looked at the sump with a view to removing it and I don't think it would be a problem. 

But how many times have I said that over the years 🙄

 

[cliff.b]

4 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said:

as the crank end float was in spec i would cross that off your to do list for now 

certainly whip the pulley off and check the keyway is sound  as an easier job to start with especially as its been in the frame previously 

Pete

I tried to do that yesterday but couldn't shift the nut, even though it's only been on there a few months.

 

If I take the starter motor off I will jam the ring gear somehow and try again.

[NonMember]

12 minutes ago, cliff.b said:

The manifold is standard but I'm not certain if the downpipe that connects to it is. 

When I was underneath checking if anything was knocking I looked at the sump with a view to removing it and I don't think it would be a problem.

You're probably OK - I think the twin downpipe on a standard manifold is aligned one in front of the other, so it's quite narrow, whereas most 4-2-1 manifolds try to equalise lengths by bringing one of the pipes inward to tuck neatly under the sump flange. Mine certainly does.

[cliff.b]

56 minutes ago, NonMember said:

You're probably OK - I think the twin downpipe on a standard manifold is aligned one in front of the other, so it's quite narrow, whereas most 4-2-1 manifolds try to equalise lengths by bringing one of the pipes inward to tuck neatly under the sump flange. Mine certainly does.

Yes, one pipe in front of the other 

[Pete Lewis]

i use  1/2" drive  battery impact wrench to wizz them big nuts off.

Pete

 

[cliff.b]

8 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said:

i use  1/2" drive  battery impact wrench to wizz them big nuts off.

Pete

 

Might need to buy one.

[Pete Lewis]

very usefull on wheel niuts  as well  can be pretty expensive  but  one of them tools you remeber how good they are a long time after you forgot the costs 

mine dooes up to 330lbft  and is in need of new batteries so its lost some umph!! 

my best buy was a Homebase clear out for a lithium 3/8" drive for £8  !!!!!!   very handy for any normal nut wizzing 

( i went back to buy the stock but some creep got there before me Ha!)

Pete

 

[cliff.b]

Just briefly back to thrust washers, the engine data in my Haynes manual says crank end float of 4 to 8 thou for the early engines and 6 to 14 thou for the 1500. 

Can anyone confirm if that is correct as I haven't seen a mention of a difference elsewhere?

[Pete Lewis]

sounds about right     endfloats across the whole range have peculiar variances  

yours sounds perfect      time to forget that one   look elsewhere 

anything with a few thou is fine  3mm+    is stuffed 

Pete

[cliff.b]

8 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said:

very usefull on wheel niuts  as well  can be pretty expensive  but  one of them tools you remeber how good they are a long time after you forgot the costs 

mine dooes up to 330lbft  and is in need of new batteries so its lost some umph!! 

my best buy was a Homebase clear out for a lithium 3/8" drive for £8  !!!!!!   very handy for any normal nut wizzing 

( i went back to buy the stock but some creep got there before me Ha!)

Pete

 

I should have bought one when they were in LIDL recently, or was it AlDI 🤔

[Pete Lewis]

dont get them mixed up with an impact screwdriver  that wont cut the mustard

eg  this is a brand i never heard of but seems about right 

Brushless Impact Wrench 1/2 Inch 600Nm Cordless with 4.0Ah Battery 20V, Adjustable Torque, High Torque, Fast Charger, Aluminum Alloy Shell, Night Work Light, with 4 Impact Socket 17-19-21-23 mm (Blue) : Amazon.co.uk: DIY & Tools

[Clive]

4 hours ago, cliff.b said:

I should have bought one when they were in LIDL recently, or was it AlDI 🤔

I have had a lidl one for a year or 2, very pleased with it. My local shop still had a few he other day.  

[cliff.b]

1 hour ago, clive said:

I have had a lidl one for a year or 2, very pleased with it. My local shop still had a few he other day.  

I will take a look in our local one. 

The only trouble with investigating the "middle in Lidl" is that I often find something else I didn't realise I needed 🙄

[PeteH]

1/2" drive Battery Impact guns. My local Aldi, still had a couple, Tuesday last, and they where reduced too? by about a tenner. This is the one that does not use their "multi use battery" system. but it`s still a damn good buy, I got one last year, used it when overhauling the brake`s on my P-107.👍 It`s not got the "Oomph" of my Air Tools One, (10bar) But it`s far more versatile.

Pete

[Paul H]

52 minutes ago, PeteH said:

1/2" drive Battery Impact guns. My local Aldi, still had a couple, Tuesday last, and they where reduced too? by about a tenner. This is the one that does not use their "multi use battery" system. but it`s still a damn good buy, I got one last year, used it when overhauling the brake`s on my P-107.👍 It`s not got the "Oomph" of my Air Tools One, (10bar) But it`s far more versatile.

Pete

Another vote for Lidl impact wrench . Mine is 240v and cost £30 a couple of years ago , prices have risen though still worth the money 

Paul 

[Pete Lewis]

most air impact guns are restricted by the small bore long hose that cripples high air volume impact guns  doesnt matter what compressor you have

the hose dia and length are the restricting performance  obstacles that need improving 

and the battery ones score as there is no such diy restriction untill the cells die with age/usage

Pete

 

[cliff.b]

Had an opportunity for a drive out today with other classic car owners so decided to go and see if anyone had an opinion about my cars noise.

 

But when I started it, I couldn't hear it. So drove to the meeting place, about 20 miles away with the second half at speed up the A1 so we'll warmed up. Lifted the bonnet, people gathered around and it was there but barely audible and the consensus was "nothing to worry about". 

 

So spent the next 2 hours or so pootling 60 miles or so around the countryside, then stuck in traffic through St Neots followed by an enthusiastic drive towards home. 

Car driving beautifully but when I stopped, the noise was back.

 

Wondering if it was because the traffic and then putting my foot down made the car hotter which somehow brings on the problem?

If so, what could explain that? 

[Pete Lewis]

its a classic   noyhing that happens can be explained  

they have amind of theyre own  you know 

heat soak may have some input but if pootling around for 2 hour all will be up to the the   thermostat temperature 

Pete