Quick Jack or Scissor Jack use GT6 / Spit ?

[Martin V]

Considering the investment in a more substantial lifting system to avoid use of hydraulic jack and axle stands with my Mk3 GT6. I'm hoping there aren't too many jobs underneath that are needed but over the years I see that a safer set-up could be worthwhile, even for normal family tin tops for those smaller jobs that I feel I could entertain (like wheel alignment / brakes that I've just helped my son with).

I was looking into the Quick Jack 3500SLX and 5000TL (the bigger model has benefit of a few extra cm height, more future proofing for weight and is mains powered). These are fully portable look like a pair of mini ladders and they connect to one hydraulic pump. The smaller one is the older design and runs from 12v DC which might be handy if later use outside of home/base, I've see a guy lift a Mini (BMW) with the 5000TL using 12V as I believe can get both power options on bigger models.

https://www.quickjack.com/car-lifts/3500slx/

Also looked into the smaller scissor lifts such as LIFTECH Portable scissor lift (there are a few very similar ones with stable platform and swing arm platform arms. All sit central on garage floor and seem to allow GT6 to run outside (100cm) the lift sat on the floor. They do tend to have low min height and may need some faffing to run Gt6 onto wood shims either side of lift for clearance.

https://liftech.uk.com/product/mobile-scissor-car-lift/

 

My car is at the workshop at the moment (getting some bigger jobs like engine and gear box seals replacement done which I didn't want to try learning at home / with axle stands). I figured those jobs were best left to the experts with Triumph experience. I have yet to measure up the distance between the wheels and the distance between the body mounting bolts which I understand are the jacking points. Plan to do the measuring next week.

 

So far I've tended to jack on those body mounting bolts (shown in WSM as jack points) then placed a reassuring axle stand inboard under the main chassis where outrigger meets. I've also read that I could jack or axle stand the front member beneath steering rack or under the differential as well as any point on main chassis. BTW my car had full body off restoration so I take it that it is all structurally sound, although outriggers have suffered from past owners jacking.

 

I'm assuming therefore that at a garage they would lift the car with pads under the 4 body mounting bolts or under the main central chassis (their ramps may be too wide for centrally chassis lifting unless they use a cross beam.  I'm thinking. If you lift on those bolts do you really lift on the bolt ends the full car weight? Lifting one corner at a time works OK with my jack and axle stand set-up (rubber jack pad on both items) so I guess that was how it was intended that the car is safe to lift directly on those 4 bolts.

 

Anyone's experience with Quick Jacks which I'm assuming would work: one each side between the wheels, lining the lift chocks under the 2 body mount bolts Front /Rear each side or even placing both jacks more centrally under the main chassis rail but then with possibly less laterally stability.

 

Or any experience with Scissor lifts of the smaller type? I see the advantage here that they would lift twice as high but then also obscure more access centrally.

 

Obviously a single post, double post system would be better but I can't see the other half buying into that, although it seems original house owner did have a single post lift!

 

I did read a few old posts but none seemed to answer my questions and got very into making your own / own adaptations to use something that didn't originally fit our needs.

 

[ahebron]

Hi Martin

I have a very similar version of the scissor lift you are referring to.
It was the first one from the company that sold them here in NZ
It is used to lift my Vitesse to a comfortable working height, as it lifts 1 metre it gives decent clearance underneath.
I fitted castors to the opposite side of the roller wheels so I can slide it about my garage but not when it is elevated.
I also fitted a quick release to the hydraulic line so I can remove the pump unit when the car is at height.
One thing that caught me out the first time I used it was the width of it.
If used as they show down the line of the car our small chassis Triumphs will not allow the scissor lift between the wheels.
On seeing that I thought I had made an expensive mistake.
But a minute or two of head scratching and I realised I could use it across the car, from one side.
This also meant I could store the car hard against the side of the garage, it is on wheel jacks, and then pull it out when I want work on it and as I keep the scissor lift stored under the car I pull that out as well (remember the added castors).
Working under the Vitesse I can access the suspension, engine, gearbox, diff and rear axles. I appreciate that the GT6 is a bit shorter wheelbase so it might differ for you.

[Graham C]

Hello Martin

Just a consideration of jacking up on the body mounting bolt, the front ones are on the front arms. I have found that over the years these buckle as at this point the arm is just a single channel. I prefer to lift my cars where these arms join the the main centre rails.

Just my preference, others may disagree but I just work with axle stands.

I have wondered by these lifts but the cost seem high for the expected usage but let's us know how they perform when you use one.

Graham

[Martin V]

Thanks both for your feedback.

All good points for consideration, especially about the overall width of the scissor platform. I've seen some are less than 1m but as I say, I'm yet to have a good measure up under my car.

On the cost Graham, I agree with your cost vs value although they do seem to hold value well on things like this if they are well looked after. Exactly the point I wondered myself regarding the body mounting bolts and my wondering if this was the workshop method.

Edited October 17, 2023 by Martin V

[PeteH]

A primary consideration in my view, would be the ability to lock them mechanically once elevated? Vehicle lifts have (or should have) latches. I remember the first  ever examination of a single post hydraulic lift a piece of kit notorious for “creapback”. I asked the owner how it locked, he pointed at a railway sleeper and said, “We just jamb that under the post”. H&S in  action?. I assume these under consideration are slightly more sophisticated?😀

Pete

[Martin V]

1 hour ago, PeteH said:

A primary consideration in my view, would be the ability to lock them mechanically once elevated? Vehicle lifts have (or should have) latches. I remember the first  ever examination of a single post hydraulic lift a piece of kit notorious for “creapback”. I asked the owner how it locked, he pointed at a railway sleeper and said, “We just jamb that under the post”. H&S in  action?. I assume these under consideration are slightly more sophisticated?😀

Pete

Hi Pete, Yes wouldn't consider going under without such locking. The Quick Jacks lock into mid or full height and hydraulics can then be disconnected. They only come down when lifted slightly and a latch is physically rotated on the lock legs. Then it comes down over the locking points.

Similar with the scissor lift, central physical latches are more up through as it lifts and can sit at any without hydraulics.

But yes good call as there are some cheaper ones which you wouldn't want to get under, then I wouldn't see the point.

[ahebron]

11 hours ago, Graham C said:

Just a consideration of jacking up on the body mounting bolt, the front ones are on the front arms. I have found that over the years these buckle as at this point the arm is just a single channel. I prefer to lift my cars where these arms join the the main centre rails.

The scissor lift I have allows me to place my lifting pads under these points.

 

7 hours ago, PeteH said:

A primary consideration in my view, would be the ability to lock them mechanically once elevated? Vehicle lifts have (or should have) latches.

The scissor lift in the first post has a ratchet lock which allows the hoist to raise freely but will not lower without the pawl being released.

11 hours ago, Graham C said:

I have wondered by these lifts but the cost seem high for the expected usage but let's us know how they perform when you use one.

The cost of making my life easier, less back pain (working inside the car is a dream when the car is elevated), less hassle working under the car made purchasing the scissor lift a no brainer. It will be used on other cars and can be used as a motorbike platform with a decent sheet of ply or even a work table.
And when I get fed up with mechanical toys I should be able to sell it on relatively easily.

[DJB350Z]

I've been considering the same. I like the look of the Quick Jack but you might also take a look at MaxJax 7 which is a 2 post lift that can be taken down fairly easily if you don't want the posts permanently in the way.

Not a low entry cost though so perhaps harder still to justify for DIY.

[Dick Twitchen]

Might be worth a scan through CJ Autos products for some alternatives that may be more cost effective.  I used a couple of their products for many years and no problem with quality.

Dick

 https://cjautosheywood.co.uk/

[Martin V]

55 minutes ago, Dick Twitchen said:

Might be worth a scan through CJ Autos products for some alternatives that may be more cost effective.  I used a couple of their products for many years and no problem with quality.

Dick

 https://cjautosheywood.co.uk/

Thanks Dick, I also looked at CJ Autos tilt lift and their portable scissor. The Tilt one looks quite limited as you have 3 fixed widths and min height 15cm. Their scissor is essentially the same as my linked product from automotech as there are a few people selling very similar products. My mate has a portable parking lift from AutoMototech and said the product and service was very good and their product is currently reduced.

I also watched some videos of users of the tilt table and quite honestly that one scares me.

Thanks for sharing.

[Martin V]

1 hour ago, DJB350Z said:

I've been considering the same. I like the look of the Quick Jack but you might also take a look at MaxJax 7 which is a 2 post lift that can be taken down fairly easily if you don't want the posts permanently in the way.

Not a low entry cost though so perhaps harder still to justify for DIY.

Looks like a lovely product and certainly up a division or two in terms of lift and price :-).  I'd also looked at these and similar.

There is also a UK more budget style Quick Jack, called KWIK Lift which is cheaper but if you do the research it looks quite cheap in quality and even the hoses are not the non-leaking quick release type so you get puddles each time you connect/disconnect.

https://www.garageequipment.co.uk/Vehicle-Lifts/Scissor-Lifts/product/e4g-kl2500AC-portable-kwik-lift-ac220v

[Colin Lindsay]

Some of those prices are staggering... £1200 for a roller, and £1800 for ramps?

[Martin V]

22 hours ago, Colin Lindsay said:

Some of those prices are staggering... £1200 for a roller, and £1800 for ramps?

I agree Colin, just a question of justifying to yourself one way or another like everything in life I guess. There are many benefits and items like this do have a good resale value. As with everything there are choices we can all make.

I'm still considering the options and will wait a little to see if any offers come up.

 

[Colin Lindsay]

That's the Scots blood in me, wouldn't spend Christmas. I must admit tho, when your back is killing you or your knees no longer work you wonder if you should have spent that extra cash all those years ago and so not had to lie on cold concrete floors...

[Martin V]

After much analysis, measuring of the jacking points and considering what will be the main use, I decided to go for a pair of these lifting wheel "ramps" :

https://cjautosheywood.co.uk/product/heavy-duty-scissor-hydraulic-car-ramps-1360kg-cr06xhd/

These give good access beneath and leave side access open with fully centre access. The Quick Jacks and Kwick Lift jack look overpriced compared to 2 or 4 of these and they would both cut off side access to going beneath the car with a lower lift height and rely on jacking points.

Then use if I want the weight off the wheels or one wheel I will use tall axle stands (6 ton tall stands which are clearly over the required spec) as you can lower one or both of the ramps to one of the slightly lower heights allowing the axle stand/s to take the weight. The stands are fulling lockable at four heights.

Clearly buying 2 pairs would be a complete job and double the price, that decision can be made later if I see further value would be added by going that second step as there is no benefit in price buying 2 pairs up front.

Only trouble is that there is a waiting list for them to knock a few sets up as they are all made on site in UK.

 

Thanks for your helpful comments and sharing of experiences.

[Pete Lewis]

i had a full length CJ ramps and removable bridge their stuff is def brick shite house construction and will give years of good service 

Pete

[Martin V]

Thought I’d share with the group my investment.

I went for the latest CJ Auto ramps as above.  As per Pete’s comment, they are “sturdy” to say the least. Common sense led me to buy two pairs in the end as I’d waiting a few months for them to come into stock and just decided that it would be more convenient to have access.

You may have seen them at Stoneleigh last weekend.

Colin has been superb with support. I had a problem with one pump which has today been replaced by Colin calling in with a new one and to check everything was working OK.

OK you can manage with jacks and stands and yes it’s a fair outlay but just the ease and access with a GT6 at waist height has already been appreciated by my back and knees.

I see it as an investment which will pay back financially and in health benefits over time. 
 

If you have questions give me a shout, demos are also easy if you are local.

 

 

Edited February 15 by Martin V

[Richeee]

They look very good and yes did admire them at Stonleigh.

Have been thinking along the same lines. Within a couple of years will be down sizing and fully retiring. Some think i have already retired.   But to enjoy my hobby with aching bones the ability to maintain my cars over a longer period of retirement, and to keep me out of the pub or from watching Countdown etc would be paramount to me.

These seem ideal. Yes, not cheap but if it means you can enjoy your hobby for longer then go for it. As you did.

I expect you will not be the last buying these.