BMW seats, Ford tyre pressure sensors and hateful wheel nuts.

[Colin Lindsay]

Cup of coffee time, here comes a litany.

I thought the earlier part of the week was bad when I replaced the seat bushes in a BMW... they wear, the seat slides forwards or backwards quite alarmingly. £10 for a set of 10 (only need 8 ) but fitting is an entire pantomime. Move seat to the rear, unbolt front; move seat to front, unbolt rears, move seat to rear again. NOW disconnect battery for at least 30 minutes to prevent air bags going off, squeeze under seat and unplug electrics which is a total nightmare trying to do it one-handed but you can't fit both arms and shoulders into the available space. The seats are the heaviest seats I've ever had to lift out. THEN you discover that you forgot to move them forward again, to access the T50 Torx bolt at the rear underside so back into the car, reattach cables, replace battery, slide forward, and disconnect all again for the next 30 minutes. Seat out again, upside down and undo two small Torx screws plus the huge big one per runner. Pull the threaded adjuster out, onto the bench, dig out the remains of the old bushes, clean and replace counting the threads as you do so. Replace the adjuster, bolt into place, replace the seat, reconnect the electrics, replace the rear bolts, move the seat back, replace the front bolts... seat groans along slowly and at half speed - allegedly mis-aligned threads. Repeat the removal process including forgetting to properly position the seat so have to reconnect and disconnect the battery three times. Check both adjusters, replace seat, find that it moves well if the bolts are left loose. After a few full front-to-rear movements it seems the new bushes have settled down in the best position, retighten all bolts and nuts and sit back happy. Repeat for passenger side. NOW after all that, discover quite by accident that the seat moves up and down as well as fore and aft. Never knew that. Except the passenger side doesn't. Spend an hour on the Net trying to find out if it's actually meant to - these cars have loads of potential for options, loads of tied-up cables and connectors, heated mirrors, screenwashers and door locks, sports packs and smoker's packs, but the actual upgrade or option was never fitted to this spec of car, so it could be driver's side only. Work out that the seat makes a slight noise if the switch is moved up or down and then lever head and shoulders into footwell for a quick look, which reveals a small right-angled gearbox that tilts when the switch is pulled or pushed. Jamming this in place with a small crowbar keeps it straight and lo and behold, the mechanism suddenly works. Loads of spray grease and we have two fully working seats. Time for a small one to celebrate.

As I'm on a roll, next morning it's time to replace the brakes on a Ford Fiesta and address the 'Tyre pressure sensors not found' error message. This comes on every day after about ten miles driving and is an MOT fail. One sensor per wheel, sealed for life so can't change the batteries. Replacements are £34 each plus VAT from Ford. Ran a Forscan on them but it states they're all working, but at 8 years old now changing can't hurt so bought new genuine items from Ford yesterday. Couldn't get the rear wheels off; the stupid Ford wheel nuts need a special socket and even with that fitted to an air impact gun they won't budge. Went across to a local tyre fitter, much swearing and condemnation of Ford wheel nuts but we got them off eventually. Replaced the wheel sensors, ten miles down the road: error message on again. I can't for the life of me work out what the problem is. I can cheat if we ever get an MOT, reset the warning just before the test and if he doesn't drive 8 - 10 miles during it, it won't come on again, but the cause is as yet unknown and i'm avoiding going anywhere near a Ford Dealer, since I got stung for a BMW exhaust section yesterday; old one is rattling like mad and embarrassing when I drive along so since aftermarket eBay-style ones are only Euro 2 spec, and I need at least Euro 3, went to the local BMW dealer. £1200. Do I wish to go ahead? Ok... by the way that's £1200 plus VAT so well over £1400 THEN he hits me with an exchange surcharge of £200. £1700+ for a section of exhaust. That's more than half of the price of the car. Not surprising these are being scrapped in what looks like good condition. That exhaust is going to have to outlive me. 

Ten minutes break then an oil and filter change on a Freelander which needs a long-reach 34mm adjustable head short-range ratchet spanner and arms like tentacles.  

Tonight is movie night, a small glass, roaring fire, and a good cry over the bank balance.

[Wagger]

48 minutes ago, Colin Lindsay said:

Cup of coffee time, here comes a litany.

I thought the earlier part of the week was bad when I replaced the seat bushes in a BMW... they wear, the seat slides forwards or backwards quite alarmingly. £10 for a set of 10 (only need 8 ) but fitting is an entire pantomime. Move seat to the rear, unbolt front; move seat to front, unbolt rears, move seat to rear again. NOW disconnect battery for at least 30 minutes to prevent air bags going off, squeeze under seat and unplug electrics which is a total nightmare trying to do it one-handed but you can't fit both arms and shoulders into the available space. The seats are the heaviest seats I've ever had to lift out. THEN you discover that you forgot to move them forward again, to access the T50 Torx bolt at the rear underside so back into the car, reattach cables, replace battery, slide forward, and disconnect all again for the next 30 minutes. Seat out again, upside down and undo two small Torx screws plus the huge big one per runner. Pull the threaded adjuster out, onto the bench, dig out the remains of the old bushes, clean and replace counting the threads as you do so. Replace the adjuster, bolt into place, replace the seat, reconnect the electrics, replace the rear bolts, move the seat back, replace the front bolts... seat groans along slowly and at half speed - allegedly mis-aligned threads. Repeat the removal process including forgetting to properly position the seat so have to reconnect and disconnect the battery three times. Check both adjusters, replace seat, find that it moves well if the bolts are left loose. After a few full front-to-rear movements it seems the new bushes have settled down in the best position, retighten all bolts and nuts and sit back happy. Repeat for passenger side. NOW after all that, discover quite by accident that the seat moves up and down as well as fore and aft. Never knew that. Except the passenger side doesn't. Spend an hour on the Net trying to find out if it's actually meant to - these cars have loads of potential for options, loads of tied-up cables and connectors, heated mirrors, screenwashers and door locks, sports packs and smoker's packs, but the actual upgrade or option was never fitted to this spec of car, so it could be driver's side only. Work out that the seat makes a slight noise if the switch is moved up or down and then lever head and shoulders into footwell for a quick look, which reveals a small right-angled gearbox that tilts when the switch is pulled or pushed. Jamming this in place with a small crowbar keeps it straight and lo and behold, the mechanism suddenly works. Loads of spray grease and we have two fully working seats. Time for a small one to celebrate.

As I'm on a roll, next morning it's time to replace the brakes on a Ford Fiesta and address the 'Tyre pressure sensors not found' error message. This comes on every day after about ten miles driving and is an MOT fail. One sensor per wheel, sealed for life so can't change the batteries. Replacements are £34 each plus VAT from Ford. Ran a Forscan on them but it states they're all working, but at 8 years old now changing can't hurt so bought new genuine items from Ford yesterday. Couldn't get the rear wheels off; the stupid Ford wheel nuts need a special socket and even with that fitted to an air impact gun they won't budge. Went across to a local tyre fitter, much swearing and condemnation of Ford wheel nuts but we got them off eventually. Replaced the wheel sensors, ten miles down the road: error message on again. I can't for the life of me work out what the problem is. I can cheat if we ever get an MOT, reset the warning just before the test and if he doesn't drive 8 - 10 miles during it, it won't come on again, but the cause is as yet unknown and i'm avoiding going anywhere near a Ford Dealer, since I got stung for a BMW exhaust section yesterday; old one is rattling like mad and embarrassing when I drive along so since aftermarket eBay-style ones are only Euro 2 spec, and I need at least Euro 3, went to the local BMW dealer. £1200. Do I wish to go ahead? Ok... by the way that's £1200 plus VAT so well over £1400 THEN he hits me with an exchange surcharge of £200. £1700+ for a section of exhaust. That's more than half of the price of the car. Not surprising these are being scrapped in what looks like good condition. That exhaust is going to have to outlive me. 

Ten minutes break then an oil and filter change on a Freelander which needs a long-reach 34mm adjustable head short-range ratchet spanner and arms like tentacles.  

Tonight is movie night, a small glass, roaring fire, and a good cry over the bank balance.

That is why I stick with Diesel BMW's. Never had to replace an exhaust or cat in sixteen years and 200k miles.

Over here there are many illegal exhaust systems going undetected. Empty cats etc and bypassed EGR's.

[Iain T]

Had the same problem with the sister in law's Ford Focus. First off the special socket was missing in action so had to buy a new one. Then I couldn't budge the lock nut even with a long extension pole so I took it too a tyre place who stuck a flag pole on the bar to move it. With my BMW I could remove the nuts but the wheel had welded itself to the hub. No amount of pulling and bashin' would budge it so I gave up and waited until the tyres were changed to replace the corroded BMW centre bosses.

BMW seats, after a few years my drivers seat keeps droping little piles of powdered foam on the carpet. The wife said my stuffings coming out or the favourite one you should loose some weight. I tell her I'm tall so I don't look at the floor as she does. She's 5' 2" or 3" when she hangs upside down every night🦹

Modern cars get you from A to B but I'm no fan.

Iain

[Colin Lindsay]

6 hours ago, Iain T said:

Modern cars get you from A to B but I'm no fan.

Iain

I thought with a 1998 car I would be fine, very few sensors compared to more modern, but the airbag warning light has just come on and I can't reset it. It's the 'pass side seatbelt pretensioner' and seems some delicate cable or other may have been disturbed with so many removals of the seats. Might not get near it as I've managed to get an emergency MOT for the Freelander on Sunday, so that's the priority now. Still wiping up the oil from the oil change.

[PeteH]

30 minutes ago, Colin Lindsay said:

I thought with a 1998 car I would be fine, very few sensors compared to more modern, but the airbag warning light has just come on and I can't reset it. It's the 'pass side seatbelt pretensioner' and seems some delicate cable or other may have been disturbed with so many removals of the seats. Might not get near it as I've managed to get an emergency MOT for the Freelander on Sunday, so that's the priority now. Still wiping up the oil from the oil change.

On the Sprinter, 99% of the time it is the Plug not completely pushed home. They need the OBDI reader to reset. It is a "regular" too on Fiat Ducato Camper van`s.

Pete

[Peter Truman]

My wife had a 2001 Jag X Type 3lt which she had for 18 years, in later life it insisted on a specific starting procedure or it would spew out alarms like ABS  & Cruise control faults if you just hit the starter but only for the first start of the day! I could avoid these alarms if I turned the ignition on waited till the security light on the centre console went out then turned the key to start "no alarms" as I said the problem was only at the first start of the day, we reckoned it was a push in dirty/loose plug somewhere but where they were everywhere! Eventually sold the car as 20 year old electrics and all those computers/PLC's had to fail sooner than later, otherwise she was a great car comfortable, safe, ample power and reliable! bit expensive on fuel for a shopping basket!

[Wagger]

1 hour ago, Colin Lindsay said:

I thought with a 1998 car I would be fine, very few sensors compared to more modern, but the airbag warning light has just come on and I can't reset it. It's the 'pass side seatbelt pretensioner' and seems some delicate cable or other may have been disturbed with so many removals of the seats. Might not get near it as I've managed to get an emergency MOT for the Freelander on Sunday, so that's the priority now. Still wiping up the oil from the oil change.

It will be one of the connectors under the seats, BUT, you will need a reset tool. Had this on my 2001 330D.

[Colin Lindsay]

I've got a Creator 410 for BMWs, it doesn't reset the warning light. Allegedly there's a small length of cable from the seat to the loom UNDER the carpet that may have been disturbed by numerous seat removals. Once I get the Freelander MOT prepped it's out with the seat again, lift the carpet and see what's there. The biggest problem is the 30 minute battery disconnect every time - can't test with it disconnected but can't work with it connected.

[Wagger]

1 hour ago, Colin Lindsay said:

I've got a Creator 410 for BMWs, it doesn't reset the warning light. Allegedly there's a small length of cable from the seat to the loom UNDER the carpet that may have been disturbed by numerous seat removals. Once I get the Freelander MOT prepped it's out with the seat again, lift the carpet and see what's there. The biggest problem is the 30 minute battery disconnect every time - can't test with it disconnected but can't work with it connected.

Do you know any mobile mechanics who have experience of BMW's? I worked on my 2001 330D many times without disconnecting the battery. Nothing went beserk even when repacing window winders. I did disconnect the door airbags on some occasions. Never had to wait any period of time before reconnecting the battery either if I chose to disconnect it.

There is a fuse that can be pulled to stop the light coming up. However, It disables some other 'Safety features' and nothing shows when you turn ignition on.

My favourite mobile mechanic fixed all properly with my 330D, then a van reversed into the side of it within two weeks writing it off. Very annoying as it was the best car ever owned by me.

[Colin Lindsay]

2 hours ago, Wagger said:

Do you know any mobile mechanics who have experience of BMW's?

Believe it or not I was over at the In-Laws Engineering Works scrounging specially machined screws and a gentleman drove in with his car emblazoned on both sides: "BMW and Mini Specialists". He reckons it's the loom has been disturbed under the carpet and just needs the connectors cleaned and replaced again. I always disconnect the battery due to the danger of air bags and pyrotechnics going off inadvertently but this means so much lost time waiting for the residual current to drain from the system before anything can be removed and checked.

[Wagger]

5 hours ago, Colin Lindsay said:

 I always disconnect the battery due to the danger of air bags and pyrotechnics going off inadvertently but this means so much lost time waiting for the residual current to drain from the system before anything can be removed and checked.

It may be worth connecting a voltmeter across the battery leads when disconnected. If there is no voltage present, all should be safe. Connect a bulb across it if charge takes too long to decay.

[Colin Lindsay]

There's a danger of electrocution there. Believe it or not, I removed the seat, tidied up the cables, decided to look at the loom where it goes through the carpets so rolled back the carpet and: gallons of water. Never have I seen a Triumph anywhere close. This is inches of water sloshing about the floors under the seat and soaking the three-inch-thick foam soundproofing. I've gone through eight old towels mopping it up and it still runs over my fingers if I compress the foam. No small of damp, no witness marks, but wringing. If I cured the bad leak at the screen pillar when I bought the car in August, and have dry-stored or dry-used it since, this has been there six months at least. It really is unbelievable. I suppose it tells me there are no holes in the floor. 

[Iain T]

22 minutes ago, Colin Lindsay said:

this has been there six months at least. It really is unbelievable

So in the summer you'll have a mobile steam room🥵 ! Did it smell damp ?

[PeteH]

28 minutes ago, Colin Lindsay said:

I suppose it tells me there are no holes in the floor. 

I had little or no choice back in the 90`s, down in deepest darkest Devon, after several day of rain caught between a Stream crossing a road and a line of Farm traffic behind. I "went for it" slow, kept the rev`s up, textbook stuff, it just made it over the sill`s into the car, Rubbish those seals on MK3 Escorts. Long story short, 3" of water in the cabin. Once clear I pulled over, ilfted the carpets and wacked the rubber plugs out with the handle of a small hammer. Company and my line manager where not impressed with the bill for drying out nor the bill for the hire car.

Pete

[Wagger]

5 hours ago, Colin Lindsay said:

There's a danger of electrocution there. Believe it or not, I removed the seat, tidied up the cables, decided to look at the loom where it goes through the carpets so rolled back the carpet and: gallons of water. Never have I seen a Triumph anywhere close. This is inches of water sloshing about the floors under the seat and soaking the three-inch-thick foam soundproofing. I've gone through eight old towels mopping it up and it still runs over my fingers if I compress the foam. No small of damp, no witness marks, but wringing. If I cured the bad leak at the screen pillar when I bought the car in August, and have dry-stored or dry-used it since, this has been there six months at least. It really is unbelievable. I suppose it tells me there are no holes in the floor. 

Under the foam there will be some rubber bungs. All of mine are removed to let water out. It is not a convertible it is a five series estate. The water came in through the heater ducts during Pissing hard rain parked on a slope sideways. Soaked front and rear floor. I have cleared leaves and muck from the drains in front of the bulkhead.

The foam will take years to dry. I cut it away and made a false wooden floor made like a mini pallet to keep the carpet off the floor. Now I have to suffer road noise generated by the open holes. May replace some of the bungs.

[Colin Lindsay]

14 hours ago, Iain T said:

So in the summer you'll have a mobile steam room🥵 ! Did it smell damp ?

Not the slightest smell of damp, the only clue (now that I know!) were the rusty screws in the seat runners. Ten towels so far, slid between foam and floor and left for an hour, then removed and squeezed out. I have a mountain of good clean towels from several recent house clearances being used as garage rags so have plenty spare. I hope the summer sun does go some way to drying it out completely.

9 hours ago, Wagger said:

The foam will take years to dry. I cut it away and made a false wooden floor made like a mini pallet to keep the carpet off the floor. Now I have to suffer road noise generated by the open holes. May replace some of the bungs.

The foam is not only sodden, it was past saturation point and loose water was just rolling round the floor pans. I know it came in through the top roof / hood seal when the drain tube was blocked - easily cleared with some stainless accelerator cable down to where it drains in the front wing area - but I had to find out that it was blocked the hard way, first shower of rain after purchase:

 

[Iain T]

As it's a convertible does it have a sandwich floor? I think Boxsters have or had top and bottom floor pan pressings for extra stiffness.

 

[PeteH]

37 minutes ago, Colin Lindsay said:

when the drain tube was blocked -

Regular happening on some cars with Factory steel sunroof`s. Drains get blocked and the gutters overflow INTO the car!. Some get so blocked they evetually rot through and the water drain OK, it goes into the boot or behind a seat.

Pete

[Wagger]

Most posh BMW's have a plastic under tray beneath the floor which hides the rubber bungs. I had a Five series 530D with a Pan roof with blocked drains and it wrote loads off by flooding the spare wheel well that contained all of the relays. PO had that sorted but the stupid drains have valves at their exit that block with sludge. I removed these leaving all pipes open.

In the case of the floor and the 2 in thick foam, I cut a rectangular section out, removed the invisible floor bungs and dried the foam before replacing it and hiding the joins under the over mats that were the same colour. Secured with velcro before I part-exed it for a 520D with a solid roof. I pushed the bungs out of the floor within a week of obtaining it.

Two years later, parked on a steep camber, heavy rain flowed down through the heater ducts filling front and rear floor areas on one side of the car. Had to cut the foam and carpet out again repeating all learned before.

I now do not park on a slope or a camber if I can avoid doing so.

[Colin Lindsay]

4 hours ago, Wagger said:

I now do not park on a slope or a camber if I can avoid doing so.

Herald owners avoid parking when facing downhill, now BMW owners do the opposite!

[Peter Truman]

I know about soaked seat foams, my son drove into a lake/retarding basin as an 18 year old how I won't recite as its too embarrassing! the car was in about 20 feet at a depth of just under the dash board, the lights were still on after 45 min when I got there, fortunately I was able to get the tow truck to pull the car out slowly, so the doors didn't get ripped off and the water was able to escape.

One lesson I learnt was oil floats on water as when I removed the sump plug the container I usually used for oil changes wasn't big enough and the oil came out last all over our drive!! yep the gearbox and diff oil had to be changed too!

Now seat foams I converted my dads old portable sauna and put the two front seats in separately it took a day each to dry out, but the rear seat wouldn't fit in the sauna and even here in the Aus summer it took around 2 weeks to dry out, he ran the car for another 2 years before upgrading or was it downgrading to an Alfa. 

The car returned to service after 2 days all working OK sans rear seats, the carpets with only 1/2in of insulation dried out in a couple of days.

With the lights on under water and some dash electrical connectors under water the electrolysis had cleaned the contacts up to a dull brassy colour, from memory re our water meter experience called de-zincification. All my son was worried about was his bl+++y hi fi system amplifier and boom system, no worries it fired up OK!!

 

[Colin Lindsay]

Well 50% success; the last two tyre sensors were replaced this morning on the Fiesta and so far the light has not reappeared. Happy days! Mot expires on the 15th so that means an appointment will be obtained for about 2025. 

Sadly the BMW seat went back in this morning and despite cleaning all of the electrical contacts from loom to seat to pre-tensioner the airbag warning light came on immediately and although the OBD reader states that the code has been cleared, it remains lit or else comes back on on restart. I can see now why so many of these modern cars are going to be scrapped as beyond economic repair.

Edited March 11 by Colin Lindsay

[68vitesse]

Have some BMW been written off by insurance companies after steering wheel was stolen, or is that just a Daily Mail story.

Regards

Paul.

[Pete Lewis]

5 hours ago, Colin Lindsay said:

electrical contacts from loom to seat to pre-tensioner , .

colin . 

checked the wiring under the seat ? 

checked the wiring from seat  to module  ? 

swapped pretensioner from left to right to see if issue follows ? 

       rgds 

 

mick 

[Colin Lindsay]

33 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said:

colin . 

checked the wiring under the seat ? 

checked the wiring from seat  to module  ? 

swapped pretensioner from left to right to see if issue follows ? 

       rgds 

 

mick 

Removed and cleaned passenger pretensioner and contacts; removed and cleaned the short cable from pretensioner to loom along the rear of the seat, and cleaned the contacts at that main connection too where it disappears under the floor. I don't think I can swap pretensioners round as there's a different short cable connection on either side so passenger cable won't fit the driver's side except at the actual pretensioner itself, which means removing both seats yet again. NOT AGAIN!!!  I might replace the pretensioner itself but have located a small BMW-specialist garage less than ten miles from me, so might call in with them for advice, as some enthusiasts are stating that the airbag warning light is not so easily reset as many claim. Worth a try later in the week.