Replacing front shocker top bushes

[daverclasper]

Hi

 

Trying to replace nearside top shock bushes to get rid of a rattle. I understand there's a top and lower one.

 

I understand this can be done with car at rest position with out raising etc.

 

Have removed the 2 nuts and cap and top bush.

 

I can't see how to remove the lower one as it seems underneath the the large top spring cap. Which is under the turret and held by 3 studs and nuts.

 

Any advice would be great please.

 

Cheers, Dave 

[dougbgt6]

Not sure you can do this without a spring compressor.   I would put back the cap top bush and nuts, this holds the spring compressed in the top cap. Then undo the three nuts on the spring top cap, jack up the car so the top cap studs drop out the upper turret. You may also need to disconnect the lower shock bush to allow enough room to get the studs out. You can then remove the whole spring and shocker assembly and this is where you need the spring compressor. Once tightened down you can re-remove the top nuts, cap and bush and get access to the lower  top rubber.

 

Can't think of any other way, or neat trick to do it.

 

http://www.canleyclassics.com/triumph-vitesse-front-suspension

[Clive]

Absolutely correct, it needs the spring compressing. The only way it could be done without is if short springs have been previously fitted (they go slack when the car is jacked up)

[Pete Lewis]

nooooo!   keep car on ground , no jacking ,

you can push the shocker shaft down into the shocker its not under any load   just need thin fingers to get into the spring to pull it back up

 

just push the shaft down enough to release the rubber ,fit new and fiddle it back up throgh the turret , fit the top rubber a washer spin the nuts on till theu bottom on the shaft shoulder , may have nut and lock nut or a nyloc 

 

easy job  takes 5 minutes 

 

Pete

[dougbgt6]

Really? My grandson might have fingers thin enough but my bananas won't fit! I suppose you could use screwdrivers, if you're adept with the old chopsticks. But how you gonna get the old rubber out and the new one in? You can show me Saturday!

[Pete Lewis]

To make this easier to retrieve the shaft a bit of tube with a 5/16unf thread in it you can screw it onto the

dropped shaft and pull it up thro the turret hole

 

yes Doug I can show you my pinkies on saturday with scar's and optional slippers

when we do our wallingford run to escape bedfordshire and meet you , at least its only yearly (didnt like anual) !!!

we dont want people talking

 

it is a bit off a fiddle , never grip the shaft with pliers you can mark the shaft and make a leak

 

forecast for saturday looks good lets hope we get a good selection of triumphs to enhance ths Thames

[Clive]

Hmm, recently had a spring in compressors that jumped out. That worried me (fresh clothing required) the compressors (had them 30 years!) went in the bin and some new ones purchased. 

Not sure I would be sticking any part of me in between compressed spring coils with only the top and bottom pans holding it is situ. 

Probably be OK, but as I get older I worry more....and things hurt more. And take longer to heal. 

[Pete Lewis]

Just to add if the top one is off and the rubber is still sitting central in the turret I would leave it all alone and look elswhere , if the bush has deformed and the shaft is rubbing the turret then its in need of replacinge and as usual the new rubbers are often poor spec and dont last like the olduns did .

the shoulder on the rubber to locate the shaft in the turret is not very big,

clives right there is load on the spring with the car weight on it it will stay well seated even if jacked a little , the shocker shaft only has load if the spring pitches the shaft and you need to realign it with the turret hole

 

if you have a compressor and want to remove the assy to swap bushes thats fine

Its down to preference or needs must we all have different ideas or methods

the type of compressor like club shop is very good

I have two for area use, there, s no escaping with these

pete

[dougbgt6]

I bought a pair of compressors, the sort that hang on either side of the spring, they popped off twice before they were binned. Took a chunk out the garage wall! (Modern houses, plasterboard rubbish!)

 

Then hired one like they sell in the club shop, MUCH better.

 

One of the bolts on one top cap had come un-welded and was a bugger to get undone. Others would have welded the bolt back but I replaced BOTH top caps. Which brings me back to the thread, Dave, why are you replacing one rubber? I would do the lot, on both sides, and contemplate poly bushes.

 

And Pete, I'm with Clive, I'm NOT sticking my fingers in there!

[68vitesse]

Have always used a compressor like the club sells, made one years ago, also stainless steel top caps are available.

 

Paul

[Pete Lewis]

Doug always......as mum said             if you cant be good be Careful

[dougbgt6]

Stainless steel top caps! Why did nobody tell me? More shiny things. ummmm.

[AidanT]

Paul / All

 

I have been looking into purchasing the club ones as I need to buy some for this winters task of replacing all the bushes in my front suspension. BUT how the ??? do they work? they seem to have a solid plate at each end (admittedly with a hole in) but how do they fit around the shocker?  Or am I being dim?

 

Aidan

[dougbgt6]

Here's a picture of a similar one to the club offering.

 

Sit the coil/shocker assembly in the compressor, top of shocker through hole. tighten up the compressor nuts, undo the shocker top nut. then slacken off the compressor nuts until the spring is uncompressed.

[AidanT]

Thanks Doug  - but how do you fit the bottom part around the lower wishbone? Surely you would have to release and remove it before fitting the lower wishbone otherwise the bottom plate would be stuck around the bottom of the shocker (Sorry still being dumb and missing something really obvious!!)

[Pete Lewis]

to use a top bottom compressor you have to remove the shocker and spring assy    ie remove bottom bolt and top 3 in the turret plate then compress the top and bottom plates down

this  free's  the shocker top bush, unwind the thing and shocker and spring top plate and all separate

 

Pete 

[daverclasper]

Hi

 

Last night I packed some bits of rubber between the shock shaft and turret hole as shaft was moving about and contacting the turret plate hole on one side.

 

I was dead chuffed, as thought this must be making the noise and the rubber would show a difference.

 

All excited, this morning I set off up the street to work and, and same bloody noise.

 

It started very quietly about 3 years and has got progressively worse.

 

Does it at slower speeds over poor surface (not big pot holes etc), as if what's making it, is not under load.

 

My suspension bushes are looking the worse for wear and have a Poly Bush kit to fit when I have time.

 

I thought a suspension bush metal tube in contact with wishbone would not make noise in the above situation, and would be a heavier knock over holes etc, rather than a chunky rattle.

 

Any thoughts please.

 

Dave

[Pete Lewis]

chunky rattle on poor surfaces  ..............

 

other ideas are

 

anti roll ball links

 

passenger side steering rack bush chatter,, there is a small plastic anti rattle plug fits in the rack tube under the rubber mounting

if its missing you get rough road rattle.  and under the  rack gaitor the passenger end is not well greased,  doesnt help.

 

sound like your top bushes will need replacing ,but as normal when you find something wrong it never cures the problem

 

Pete

[daverclasper]

Hi

 

It was a rear arm radius bush causing the noise. Sounded to me like noise came from front/middle.

 

Anyway, has been bugging me for 3 years, so dead chuffed.

 

Cheers, Dave 

[Pete Lewis]

Glad its sorted 

 

         when chasing noises its always best to rent a crowd  and let them listen while you drive ,

 

noises do often come from the opposite end to what you think     I'll re phrase that !!!!

 

Pete

[Herald948]

Glad its sorted 

 

         when chasing noises its always best to rent a crowd  and let them listen while you drive ,

 

noises do often come from the opposite end to what you think     I'll re phrase that !!!!

 

Pete

I might have said this before (if not here, on some other forum), but I agree with Pete. A number of years ago, I was convinced that there was something very amiss in the rear end of my '62 Herald 1200...until I discovered the failing left FRONT wheel bearing (and race and, ultimately, hub)!

[Colin Lindsay]

 

 

noises do often come from the opposite end to what you think 

 

Usually with politicians.

 

However: re spring compressors - this is one area where cheaper versions can be dangerous so avoid the market stall shiny chrome versions and get a good reputable brand. NEVER COMPRESS WITH ROPES!! Seen it done and wondered how long the owner was going to survive...

If you get the club compressors which are superb for the job but take an age to compress all the way down, use plenty of grease on the threads before you start. Dry threads are harder to turn when compressing and often become damaged or stripped if not kept well lubricated; look after the equipment and it will last for years. Mine's been working well for around 20 years now!

[daverclasper]

Hi. Sorry for any excitement caused.  Just replying as a way to reread this topic, as don't know how to save it. Oh well

Edited June 23, 2023 by daverclasper