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Alloy wheels & tyres


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Hi Bad,

 

How you gonna free off your clutch/flywheel?  I've had it a couple of times in the past and have dismantled the clutch to split them. However I've heard of people towing the car and slamming on the brakes and just last week I guy said "Just run the engine for 15 minutes till hot and the heat will do the job." Not sure I like either of the last two.

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Hello Martyn.

 

If you are going standard size then a Minilite ranging from 4.5J / 5j / 5.5J x 13 will suffice.

 

The wheel size really determines what tyre profile you can fit; as either too big or too small a width can cause problems.

 

It is a topic that has been covered extensively throughout the Forum with some excellent advice.

 

Good luck.

 

Richard.

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I'm sure you have tried this:

 

engage gear (if you can) without engine running

 

keep clutch down

 

fire engine up

 

brings the revs high

 

release clutch pedal allowing it to return unassisted - meaning get your foot off it

 

the sudden shock of clutch engagement x high revs often does the trick - it may take several attempts and it's brutal; but in life many things are  :angry: 

 

Try not to have a brick wall in front or behind you within a few feet !!!!

 

Good luck.

 

Richard.

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In that case handbrake on and brake pedal down, then the above sequence. Hopefully that should do the trick.

 

Sorry Doug, did not mean to take your stage position  :D  !!

 

Regards.

 

Richard.

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i used 5.5j  miniltes on my Vit6  175/70 13 michelins  ...  but upgraded to 12mm or if prefered unf   7/16" studs , the 3/8" wimpy ones can get sheared , suffer agism and generally are pretty weedy

 

the bigger studs fit direct into the hubs rears  can be a fiddle, with hub 'on'     fronts need to separate the disc/hub

 

some need a small  chamfer/file    if the head fouls the hub register,

 

 the best bullet proof upgrade  you can do.

 

Pete

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when they they are in you will wonder how the 3/8" managed 

 

if you have domed /capped nuts make sure the  longer stud  doesnt bottom out and leave the wheel loose  !!!!!!  cut them to suit.

 

easy to do rears if the hubs off, from memory we fiddled them in the rears with the shoes off, some hole saw the back plate and fit them from the inside out turn the hub to align the hole and bingo.

pull the studs up with a spacer and old wheel nut

 

Pete

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Richard,

 

when I had my motor duffed up, the clutch became frozen. The garage towed it in neutral to 30/40mph, dropped the tow and slammed on the brakes. Did this three times and freed up the clutch.

 

Strangely my gearbox still works!

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How does it work? I 'm not sure of the technique, I don't like to think about it! The car has to be towed and at some point the tow rope dropped, but I can't even figure out how that would be done?!!  At some point it's the engine vs the brakes and the clutch lets go, eventually. :o

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Back to clutch.

Running engine up to temp had some merit, it cannot hurt. I would and have done, sadly not worked by itself.

However, you can securely support the car at the rear, and then start the car in gear. Useful if you can match revs etc and change gear into third. clutch pedal fully down, and keep blipping the throttle. Nowhere near as harsh and the clutch has always freed off for me.

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Steve ,theres a whole range of supplies for bigger diameter studs,

 

but if you want to keep your Nuts !!  then the result is dependant on the thread size in your nuts      ( dont let doug  thread drift into this one )

 

 

do you know what   nuts you have    i really didnt want to say that 

 

Pete

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Steve.

 

If you have MGF hubs you will have M12 x 1.5 studs.

 

Have a look at Tuner wheel nuts, these use a tool to tighten / undo the nuts.

 

I have a set of Dunlop D1's with M12 x 1.5 studs so the above for those wheels, due to design, is to use the Tuner wheel nuts. Loads of outlets do them, BUT only a few of the outlets can be relied upon to supply qulaity items such as John Brown Wheels and Demon Tweeks.

 

With regard to stud option I am not sure what route is open to you for a different type of stud; I think new nuts are the way forward.

 

Pete - thread drift !! You and Doug are as bad as each other !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Even Statler & Waldorf have nothing on the pair of you  :D 

 

Regards.

 

Richard.

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I think the last time the clutch stuck, I ran the engine to warm everything up then revved the engine and engaged third or fourth gear with the clutch depressed with clear road in front!!!. It freed off without a problem but that was 20 years ago!! I really don't want to strip down the clutch. Does anyone know how to repair a faulty horn unit, don't want a modern replacement if at all posible. I have started a new thread in the hope that someone has experience of this.

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I still have the unf nuts i used before the CV conversion,i vaguely remember a conversation with Nick Jones about what studs i wanted in his kit and i kept the 3/8 unf ones as i didn`t know if Revo sleeve nuts were available that would still fit the holes in the wheels.

Steve

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  • 2 months later...

Sorry to be a pain but I have a similar question but not sure if it was answered above. There is a possibility I missed it but..

 

i have a 1972 spitfire mkVI and I have some 5.5jx13 alloys to put on it. What are the best tyres to go for? 

 

There  was a few replies saying 175/70 R13 is that the best? 

 

Also so I have found some extended wheel studs, is that a good idea to change?

 

Thanks 

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Hello.

If you click on this link you can put your wheel size in and get the range of suitable tyres.

In essence 175's are fine on 5.5J rims.

http://www.tyresizecalculator.com/tyre-wheel-calculators/tyre-size-for-rim-size-width-calculator

With regard to studs the next move up from your standard thread of 3/8" is M12 x 1.5 or perhaps 7/16" as previously mentioned.

You may find, depending on your particular wheel, that if you do opt for M12 or 7/16" then a closed nut may not be able to be accessed properly with a socket - if that is the case then you will need to look at Tuner Nuts which are open ended and are secured by way of a "key" that fits in to the nut and is tightened up using the usual process.

Hope that assists ??

Richard.

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Hi Clarke44, 

I ended up running 175/70's on 5j's on my Vitesse, and couldn't be happier. I got the longer studs from Jigsaw Racing. (70-odd quid, but worth it). I got a set of Yokohama Blue Earth tyres from BlackCircles.com for silly money. Hope that helps? 

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175/70 are a very good choice as fit the wheel nicely, have (near enough) exact diameter as the old 155 tyres so speedo stays correct, plus the profile still allows the suspension to work. 

They are the size I normally use on 13"wheels.

Toyos REALLY cheap from Demon Tweeks (£100 a set I think!) at the moment and a decent mid-range tyre. Wet orientated, Falken sn832 or uniroyal.

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