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Olpie

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I'm about to start a complete rewire of my 67  Mk3 Spitfire.  I've already acquired a complete loom from Autosparks and would appreciate any hints and tips to make the job easier. Are there any parts, tools or connectors that could help?

Many thanks in advance,

Steve

 

 

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Bullet connectors are so last century!

 

Look at any modern, and every single connection is by some sort of 'multiway'.    This means that disconnecting and reconnecting needs no thought at all, and can be done in the dark, with the eyes closed and while listening to Deep Purple with the volume up to Eleven.   No need to work put which wire goes where, or even which way round the connector goes as it is always keyed.

 

Harvesting these from a scrappers isn't a good idea, as they are mostly moulded and cannot be rewired - you have to do multiple splices.

But multiways that can be simply inserted into looms are available from the usual sources.   

A box of assorted, unless you wnat to analyse where you need them and how many 'ways' each, before ordering.

Then insert a 'multi' between the loom and any electrical component, and make any future maintenance easier.

 

Order a crimping tool to go with it, plus a wire stripper if you wish, and this job can be done very quickly indeed!

 

EG (others are available): http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/search.php

 

John

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The only thing wrong there John is Deep Purple. The Zeppelin for preference! I had a friend who used to add decals, 0 to 11, to plain knobs. Everybody wanted them, he had an endless market, but got fed up with the tedium of production and gave it up.

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Bullet connectors are so last century!

 

Look at any modern, and every single connection is by some sort of 'multiway'.    

 

John

 

So are our cars!! Bullet connectors, imperial measurements and metal rather than plastic fittings are part of the charm and appeal... to me at least. When I rebuilt an accident damaged Volvo I was amazed at how many of these modern plug-in connectors had cracked or splintered following the impact, and many were nowhere near the damage. They also suffer from plastic deterioration due to weathering so scrappy versions can often be beyond use. I can rewire almost any ancient Triumph with a roll of wire, bullet connectors and solder.... but can't fit a head unit to my modern Mondeo as it requires power take-offs and additional wiring that won't affect the canbus or other delicate circuits where any minute voltage drop sets off all sorts of warning lights. I just can't do it myself! Moderns seem to work along the lines of "why have two wires, red and black, when you can have twenty", probably to allow someone in India or wherever to monitor your engine remotely and then when a component fails, sell you a complete new one as they're too complicated to recondition or repair. Progress? Bah.

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Colin.

 

I'm with you on the bullet and spade option - a doddle to use and of course period appearance.

 

Personally I have never had a problem with any of the above and as with anything, if done properly nor should there be. A little blip of solder on the bullets to finish securing the wire and good for another 100K !!

 

One thing I do like about the bullet set-up is the opportunity to spur off safely when incorporating the bullet connectors - for example the 4x way connectors.

 

Regards.

 

Richard.

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Imperial & plastic, hmm. My GT has metric parts and a plastic brake light switch. :unsure: It stopped working, I put my finger on it and it burst into half a dozen bits!  And don't get me started on the dodgy fuse box. Not a triumph of engineering! A nice modern one with EVERYTHING fused for me. Bah! Humbug! 

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Multi way connectors can make it more difficult to isolate circuits when tracing faults. The Spade/Bullet connectors are reliable and are fit for purpose on classic cars.  

 

Back in the late 1990's I was involved in the revision of "MPT 1362 CODE OF PRACTICE For the installation of mobile radio and related ancillary equipment inland based vehicles" By then vehicles had lots of electrical stuff to give you problems, including multi way connectors.

 

That's one of the reason I like the Vitesse as it has the KISS approach of it's era.

 

Dave

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Why, dave?

A moulded connector can make it difficult/impossible to get at the wires when it's plugged in, but there are 'needle' probes for multimeters:

 

Less than £2: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/like/262744702549?lpid=122&chn=ps&adgroupid=33676502101&rlsatarget=pla-270397411323&adtype=pla&poi=&googleloc=1006854&device=c&campaignid=707291931&crdt=0  and you can pierce the insulation of the smallest wire to access the conductor.

 

Anyway, the non-moulded multiways I was advocating are very easy to get inside with an ordinary pointed probe.

And KISS is the essence of my case, in that once made up, disconnecting an item is merely unplugging, not consulting the manual for every wire.

 

Originality has its advocates, who must be respected, but not followed!

John

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John sorry I didn't explain, the point with spades and bullets is that you can disconnect, unplug, a part of the circuit. Whereas if you unplug a multi way you disconnect a number of circuits. Also if you get corrosion in a multi way it causes problems with a numbers of circuits, not just one as in most cases with the bullet arrangement. The late TR7 is a good example of this where it has 20+ multi connectors hidden all over the place. These corrode up and cause all sorts of electrical problems. The best way is to clean all of them up and apply silicon grease to stop it happening (again). But if the owner is not electrically minded then they have a real problem. Originality is not my concern just keeping it easy to repair.

 

I agree needle probes should be part of the kit you are using when working on multi way connectors.

 

I fully understand the direction you are coming from and respect your reasons.

 

Dave 

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