Ray H Posted March 26, 2017 Report Share Posted March 26, 2017 Although the brakes work very well on my Vitesse, there appears to be a slight leak from the master seals as the pedal is always damp with brake fluid. The cylinder was brand new some years ago. Where can I get a service kit for the master cylinder? Regards, Ray. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Posted March 26, 2017 Report Share Posted March 26, 2017 Canley Classics Paddocks if you must, Rimmers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew Posted March 26, 2017 Report Share Posted March 26, 2017 Hi Rayhill Don't bother with a service kit buy a complete master cylinder unit in my opinion the best fix for lots or reasons. Andrew Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve C Posted March 27, 2017 Report Share Posted March 27, 2017 I have to disagree Andrew. I have re-rubbered lots of cylinders over the years, without problems. As long as the bore is clean and without any scoring it is a lot cheaper than a new cylinder (and Rayhills was new to him). I would also rather re-rubber a Girling original part than use something repro from the far east which is probably out of spec and made down to a price. regards Steve 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomL Posted March 27, 2017 Report Share Posted March 27, 2017 I agree with Steve C; there is nothing wrong in re-rubbering your old cylinder. I have done it in the past but just recently I fitted a new rear brake cylinder (as I needed to the job in a hurry and the part was available quickly) but I did not throw out the old Girling cylinder as it seemed so much better than the new one. The new one is fine and got it through the MOT but I can see that a longer-term solution will probably be the re-built original. Tom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougbgt6 Posted March 27, 2017 Report Share Posted March 27, 2017 Yes, rebuild the original! It's an easy enough job, just watch out for the brake fluid on the bulk head. And maybe now is the time to tidy up the bulk head? One job leads to another. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daverclasper Posted March 27, 2017 Report Share Posted March 27, 2017 I partly agree. Used a kit on brake M//C 4 years ago and still fine. On clutch M/C, I was fitting new seals too often, due to small leak. The bore was smooth, but maybe it had worn out of spec (clutch piston travels further and used more often?). Mine is always black fluid in reservoir, some say this is the aluminium wearing?. Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted March 27, 2017 Report Share Posted March 27, 2017 from my experience its more likely to be rubber , but never thought about alloy content , but you're right about travel, most would check for smooth and sound ,, not many have a bore gauge in the cupboard to check for ovality from thrust or bore wear Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AidanT Posted March 27, 2017 Report Share Posted March 27, 2017 You also need to be careful about the seal kit. Some are worse than useless Aidan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ray H Posted March 27, 2017 Author Report Share Posted March 27, 2017 Thank you to all who have replied to my post. I have ordered a seal from Canleys. Hopefully this will be of decent quality. The cylinder itself is bright and shiny and Girling, which swung my decision. A good idea would be to tidy up the bulkhead at the time,-- good suggestion. I won't have to worry about the brake fluid issue as I have used silicone fluid since rebuilding the car 30 years ago. The first filling lasted 16 years!!! Cheers, Ray. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robin Posted May 24, 2017 Report Share Posted May 24, 2017 I've got a Girling brake MC that I want to refurbish and then re-fit - It looks to be in good condition with no obvious wear. I've removed the circlip but can't get the assembly out - I've tried tapping the casing, heating it, lubricating the inner bore with brake fluid but nothing seems to work. One thing I have noticed is that if I push the plunger completely in it doesn't immediately spring back but instead takes quite a while for it to return to the edge of the casing - does this indicate a bigger problem? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul H Posted May 24, 2017 Report Share Posted May 24, 2017 Hi Robin - I had the same issue - If you add a grease nipple to the bleed valve thread and pump in grease using a Wanner type grease gun it will free up - im told the Wanner gun reaches 2000 psi or something incredible - You will need to hold on the MC cap or it will blow off - I used a cutup inner tube wrapping it around the MC cap holding the inner tubing in place with tape . It took a few minutes to release the piston and the MC cap will start to move as pressure builds up - Im told there could be a bang when the piston releases - This didnt happen in my case though held in a vice to be safe - Once out you will have a lot of grease to remove but it works Hope this helps Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robin Posted May 24, 2017 Report Share Posted May 24, 2017 H Hi Robin - I had the same issue - If you add a grease nipple to the bleed valve thread and pump in grease using a Wanner type grease gun it will free up - im told the Wanner gun reaches 2000 psi or something incredible - You will need to hold on the MC cap or it will blow off - I used a cutup inner tube wrapping it around the MC cap holding the inner tubing in place with tape . It took a few minutes to release the piston and the MC cap will start to move as pressure builds up - Im told there could be a bang when the piston releases - This didnt happen in my case though held in a vice to be safe - Once out you will have a lot of grease to remove but it works Hope this helps Paul Hi Paul Sounds like fun! What did you use to clean out the grease afterwards? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul H Posted May 24, 2017 Report Share Posted May 24, 2017 H Hi Paul Sounds like fun! What did you use to clean out the grease afterwards? The bulk was removed with a small scraper then tissue then boiled it in a solution of degreaser ( high % of degreaser ) Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve C Posted May 24, 2017 Report Share Posted May 24, 2017 As an alternative to the greasgun method, I have an old plastic 0625 M/C I connect to the one I am working on, then fill it with fluid and shove the actuator in manually on the bench. It usually frees off the piston. Put plenty of old newspapaer down on the bench and wear PPE. If the piston is not actually seized from standing for years, it is usually a ring of grease and muck at the limit of the piston's travel that is holding them in. Regards Steve Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robin Posted May 25, 2017 Report Share Posted May 25, 2017 As an alternative to the greasgun method, I have an old plastic 0625 M/C I connect to the one I am working on, then fill it with fluid and shove the actuator in manually on the bench. It usually frees off the piston. Put plenty of old newspapaer down on the bench and wear PPE. If the piston is not actually seized from standing for years, it is usually a ring of grease and muck at the limit of the piston's travel that is holding them in. Regards Steve Hi Steve How did you connect the two MCs together? Also, I'm assuming you fill the 'spare' MC with the fluid not the one which has the stuck piston? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted May 25, 2017 Report Share Posted May 25, 2017 you will get vastly more pressure from a wanner than you can from a tandem'd up pair of M Cyl. and far more than any foot pump or compressed airline . if you have neither a really really hard tap on a solid bench top will normally persuade the inner to become an outer. Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve C Posted May 26, 2017 Report Share Posted May 26, 2017 I have a length of brake pipe with two male ends on it. And yes, the "stuck" cylinder is empty. Works for me! Regards Steve Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robin Posted June 12, 2017 Report Share Posted June 12, 2017 Finally managed to get the piston out using compressed air - thanks to everyone for all the advice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomL Posted June 12, 2017 Report Share Posted June 12, 2017 That's good. It's quite a rewarding job re-building a master-cylinder. Let us know how you get on. Tom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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