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Need some AntiFreeze


68spitfire

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Hi all,

 

Time to flush my Mk3 Spits coolant system through and put in some new antifreeze.

 

I have searched this forum and read a few posts relating to this including an external link to a pdf explaining that Blue antifreeze is recommended for historic vehicles.

 

Now years ago when I last purchased some, from Halfords I was recommended  a type after explaining what the vehicle was and it was Red, and this has been in the system for quite a few years now.

 

There looks like a oily residue appearing on the top of the visible level (not oil oil, but a yellowy scum)

 

Anyway, looking at Halfords latest offerings on their website I cannot see any reference offhand to 'Blue antifreeze"

 

So can anyone give me a hint as to which of their 17 products listed would be good for a 68 Spitfire

 

Thx.

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Lets just say It can be a really bad move to get OAT pink /orange stuff with

Blue Glycol as there is said to be a solidifying jelly result if slightly mixed

 

if you have pink I would stay with it but if flushing is planned then...

 

lots of ideas on flushing I stick with simple cheap washing soda , run it for a few days and really flush it

fully.

 

of its clean a nd flushed then the choice is wider but these engines were designed to use blue glycol

 

pete

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Hi Pete,

 

Many thanks for the quick reply.

 

When the last stuff was put in many years back the system was fully flushed and tons of rusty water came out.

 

Having got all of this cleaned out I filled it with the 'Red" stuff as advised by Mr Halfords.

 

A few months ago I noticed the oily/jelly skim on the top of the water in the expansion tank (Im using a Mk1 Rad & Expansion tank in my Mk3 )

 

So I need to flush and change again.

 

Looking at Halfords, the stuff that is not OAT is Comma stuff listed as G30, G38, G40, Silicate  / whatever.

 

What should I choose?

 

Problem is everything on the shelf these days is for modern hardware and to be honest I'm still stuck in the 80's / 90's with my motor factor knowledge.

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Be very careful buying Anti-Freeze on colour alone.

 

Most (but not all) manufacturers of Antifreeze stick to an informally agreed colour for a specific chemistry - this can occasionally  catch one out.

 

There are several chemical formulations of antifreeze, and they shouldn't be mixed.

If switching from one chemistry to another, then a full system flush is required to remove all traces of the old antifreeze otherwise it can react with the new.

 

Inorganic Acid Technology or IAT: This is usually, but not always, green and is the stuff original equipment manufacturers have used for over 70 years.   Ethylene glycol is its base chemical and there are silicate and phosphate additives that make it compatible with copper, brass, cast iron and aluminium cooling system components.

 

Organic Acid Technology or OAT: Introduced in the 1990's, it is Propylene Glycol based and comes in a range of colours. Usually (but not always) dyed orange or yellow so you could tell the difference between OAT and IAT, this coolant has similar corrosion protection as IAT, however they are designed to be slower acting, hence the extended-life moniker. As it is made from a propylene glycol base, it is less poisonous than conventional IAT for children and pets.

 

Hybrid Organic Acid Technology or HOAT: Introduced in the 2000's, this coolant is usually dyed yellow but comes in other colours like green, pink, blue, red and orange, which leads to a lot of confusion. One way to know for sure if you are getting HOAT will be by the packaging. Manufacturers often refer to this anti-freeze as “global” and will indicate on the bottle that it meets or exceeds the specification “G-05” for most European cars and G-11 or G-12 for Volkswagen and Audi. Hybrid antifreeze has added silicates for aluminium protection and is advertised as having a five-year change interval.    The use of OAT and HOAT coolants can extend the life of rubber coolant hoses, because they conduct less electrochemical degradation or ECD than the IAT antifreeze.

 

When Triumphs were designed, the only antifreeze that was available was IAT, so it is probably best to stick to IAT - which is usually (but not always) green.

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I'm confused now!

 

Kevin doesn't mention blue anti freeze.

 

Richard's recommendation doesn't appear on Kevin's list.

 

Pete's link goes to an "Opps something went wrong" page.

 

My car winter's in the garage, do I NEED antifreeze?

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As far as I can tell, both the Granville Sub zero and the Bluecol are both OAT chemistry.

OAT is usually - BUT NOT ALWAYS - green. The two mentioned above are some examples of the exception and a good reason to not shop on colour alone.

 

If the car is NEVER exposed to freezing temperatures, then technically antifreeze is not needed, BUT it is also a corrosion inhibitor so it helps if you have antifreeze all year round. Are you able to be 100% certain that the garage temperature won't ever go sub zero, if not, antifreeze is a good precaution to save accidentally damaging an expensive engine to save a couple of pounds and 10 minutes work.

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Hello Kevin.

 

Granville Sub Zero does come in other colours with various & appropriate types of application; which you referred to in your definitions you gave earlier. Sorry, I should have alluded to that on my original response.

 

I only flagged the blue as that is what I have always used for the Vitesse, Alpine (alloy head) and other classics. As you have indicated the overriding benefit of antifreeze, other than to prevent the coolant going icy, is the corrosion resistant properties to reduce the form of scale within the coolant system.

 

Even if vehicles are driven in climates above zero degrees, the addition of antifreeze is necessary to minimise corrosion in the waterways, matrix and head.

 

Regards.

 

Richard.

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Hi all,

 

Many thanks for the advice, this is also turning into a very informative thread.

 

I got some antifreeze today. First went to halfords, looked at all the variants and nothing was telling me that it was blue or glycol based just techno babble OAT, silicate etc etc.

 

So I went to a local motor factor, spoke to the guy and he instantly said 'you want the blue stuff for that car'

 

So I got some.

 

Now to flush the system clean and dilute the concentrate to suit.

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It will be worth putting rad flush in and give that an opportunity for about twenty minutes on fast idle or a run to give the system a head start.

 

Then carry on with flushing etc.

 

Good luck.

 

Richard. 

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Kevin, My garage is integral to the house and it's going to be VERY cold for it to freeze but, fear not, I do have antifreeze in the GT6. AFs restorative benefits pointed out to me by Uncle Pete on his famous visit last year.

 

In the 70s I had an old Mini which sat in the street. One morning it wouldn't start. I lifted the bonnet and the core plugs were standing a good inch out of the block on ice stalks. The engine did have the recommended amount of anti freeze but it was a very cold winter's morning. At the weekend there was a thaw and I found the core plugs in the gutter. I hammered them back in, toped up the radiator and to my surprise the engine started. It ran fine for a couple of years until I sold it and bought the GT6. Tough old engines the A series.

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 First went to halfords

 

So I went to a local motor factor, spoke to the guy and he instantly said 'you want the blue stuff for that car'

 

 

 

A good move. I go to Halfords if I'm in a desperate need of something and know what I'm looking for (without having to ask) or if other places are closed. Sadly I find many of the staff unable to think outside of the catalogue and if your car isn't listed you're sunk. It's not their fault, it's just that even my daily driver is older than most of them.

My local autofactor has a Polish guy working for them and once you get over all the Ulsterisms in a broad Polish accent he's a real mine of information, plus you find that in most of my locals, there's at least one Classic enthusiast working behind the counter. 

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Hi all,

 

Well, system flushed out today.

 

Old water did not look that bad, pinkish but that was the colour of the old antifreeze anyway.

 

Then I got the hose to several parts of the system, including flushing the heater matrix through.

 

Then we had all the red rusty water flowing everywhere.

 

Flushed completely until the water was running clear all round.

 

Re-filled with my new antifreeze from Motor Parts Direct on our local industrial estate.

 

They supplied me, as stated yesterday with a 20 litre can of Autochem Blue Antifreeze for £15.22 inc vat

 

So thats that done and dusted hopefully, no leaks so far.

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That's a nice result and great to see that amount of rusty water coming out and even better when it goes to clear - a good feeling !!

 

20ltr for under £16, that's an excellent innings - well done !!

 

Autochem currently owned by Tetrosyl.

 

Regards.

 

Richard.

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