Paul H Posted August 11, 2017 Report Share Posted August 11, 2017 Overdrive is cutting out - Gearboxes & Overdrives are alien to me at present . Initially Overdrive worked ( pretty sure its a D Type ) . A buddy installed a warning light so when the OD was switched ( column stalk) a light came on. Currently with ignition on ( engine not started ) and selecting 3 or 4 gear , there is an audible click ( solenoid ? ) and the warning light goes on . Sometimes using OD it works then as time goes on - 10 mins or so there is a clicking sound ( several clicks + OD light flickering - Solenoid ??? ) and OD cuts out and wont work again for the journey - Next day the OD light (+ clicking) will come on with ignition on when selecting 3 or 4 gears. Both OD & Gearbox have been professionally rebuilt ( new wiring as previously there was no OD) by the late Clive Manvers . The original prop shaft was shortened and balanced . Ive checked the gearbox oil level ( EP90 ) and its fine - I did read it could be a pressure build up though dont understand enough yet to tinker. Im hoping its something simple Thanks in advance Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted August 11, 2017 Report Share Posted August 11, 2017 1st test is in 3rd or 4th move /load the gear stick sideways towards you , if things improve then the inhibitor switch on the front of the remote hsg, needs some small adjustment do that let us know pete 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul H Posted August 11, 2017 Author Report Share Posted August 11, 2017 1st test is in 3rd or 4th move /load the gear stick sideways towards you , if things improve then the inhibitor switch on the front of the remote hsg, needs some small adjustment do that let us know pete Thanks Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD Posted August 11, 2017 Report Share Posted August 11, 2017 If it is a D-type, see Canley's (John Kipping's) trouble shooting page: https://www.canleyclassics.com/technical-archive/the-d-type-overdrive If not see the J-type page - it's on the menu. The page now appears to be missing paragraphs, as it doesn't explain now how to check the filter. This is on the opposite side to the solenoid, and the cover can be removed easily - four screws. If the filter is full of "black hairy bits" then the cone clcutch is probably worn out. What it does say is that most problems like yours are due to inadequare oil pressure. The O/d includes a pump, driven from an eccentric on the input shaft. If that doesn't develop enough pressure (>400psi!) then syumptoms like yours are typical. DiY rebuild is possible, but I've always left it to an expert with the special tools and experience. By expert, I mean Mike Papworth. who advertises in the Courier and can be found online: http://www.classiccarwebsite.com/mike-papworth-triumph-parts John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GT6M Posted August 11, 2017 Report Share Posted August 11, 2017 OD probs are mainly elektikery related the D Type es an adjustment for the solonoid push rod if it has come loose, it,ll no go in, maybe a wee bit wen cold, then as it gets hot, it drops oot other is the relay on the bulkheed the contacts inside it can become dirty. open it up, quite easy, bend tabs back, an it all comes apart then check the contacts infact, go all along the electrical wires, tug,n an push,n, see if there a dry joint or water / moisture corrosion in em Butt, first, check its got oil init another way, Is if the OD comes oot going doon a steepish hill, then its low on oil as oil is all noo int g box If it stops in whenst going up,t hill, then its showing that its oil related as all oil will noo be in the OD end, t,the detriment of the GB M Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
68vitesse Posted August 11, 2017 Report Share Posted August 11, 2017 Sounds elecrical if the light does not come on when overdrive selected, where could depend on how the light was wired in. As Pete said check the adjustment on the inhibiter switches, they can also stick. Never bypass them as selecting and driving in reverse while in overdrive will cause damage. Regards Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul H Posted August 13, 2017 Author Report Share Posted August 13, 2017 1st test is in 3rd or 4th move /load the gear stick sideways towards you , if things improve then the inhibitor switch on the front of the remote hsg, needs some small adjustment do that let us know pete Hi Pete - test drive today - engaged overdrive in 4th gear today at 3000 revs , Overdrive kicked in after about a minute the OD warning light started to flicker so manually held 4th gear and light went out - Did this a couple of times to prove so looks like the inhibitor switch needs adjusting - What do I do now ????? Best regards Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mishmosh Posted August 13, 2017 Report Share Posted August 13, 2017 inhibitor switch is a doddle to swap once you have the gearbox cover off, and cheap. worth a try. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mishmosh Posted August 13, 2017 Report Share Posted August 13, 2017 I have had a similar problem for years on a d type. . Intermittent and rarely engages at high revs, or when gearbox is hot .Slow to kick in especially compared with my other triumphs J type. I will first swap the OD solonoid. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted August 13, 2017 Report Share Posted August 13, 2017 Afraid its a tunnel out job, the switch is in a brkt, on front of the remote assy adjustment is by thinncard shim washers btween switch and bracket I would take any fitted out. if there are none then its new switch or bend the bracket you can with care strip ,/uncrimp the switch its likely to be green inside. pete 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul H Posted August 13, 2017 Author Report Share Posted August 13, 2017 Afraid its a tunnel out job, the switch is in a brkt, on front of the remote assy adjustment is by thinncard shim washers btween switch and bracket I would take any fitted out. if there are none then its new switch or bend the bracket you can with care strip ,/uncrimp the switch its likely to be green inside. pete Thanks peteRegards Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted August 13, 2017 Report Share Posted August 13, 2017 If thd solenoid gets excessively hot then the holding coil is failing and the 10amp is not cutting back the switch in the end of the sol get very corroded , old can be cleaned newer is solidstate you can fiddle the bottom screw out if you stick short tube over the screwdriver to keep it on the screw head its a pain to remove. use socket cap screws when replacing pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul H Posted August 14, 2017 Author Report Share Posted August 14, 2017 Removed the gearbox cover , the inhibitor switch doesnt have any shims . All wiring , solenoid, switch appears new which it should be . The only thing I noticed was that the "striker plate" where the ball bearing switch touches is rather low on the plate , bending the bracket will make the bearing switch even lower - I will now test the switch to ensure its not faulty - see pics Regards Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul H Posted August 14, 2017 Author Report Share Posted August 14, 2017 Just checked the inhibitor switch and its fine , just a few thou movement activates the switch and the switch works every time using a multimeter - in 4th gear its clear that the switch is too low and drops off the striker plate , Is the striker plate adjustable in that it can be rotated a few degrees clockwise or can i get a longer switch - The ref numbers on the switch are "FAE X10 40120" . I could achieve the correct positioning if I elongated the switch bracket hole but this would be a bodge . Regards Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted August 14, 2017 Report Share Posted August 14, 2017 If its low you could add washers under the bracket the ols lucas switches were a SA141 or similar like the one in your reverse switch some had long threads you had thin nuts to make it adjustable, later just had the fibre shims, , so would a rise in brkt height and a bend make it workable ?? pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul H Posted August 14, 2017 Author Report Share Posted August 14, 2017 If its low you could add washers under the bracket the ols lucas switches were a SA141 or similar some had long threads you had thin nuts to make it adjustable, later just had the fibre shims, , so would a rise in brkt height and a bend make it workable ?? pete Thanks Pete, raising the bracket makes sense Regards Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul H Posted August 15, 2017 Author Report Share Posted August 15, 2017 UPDATE : raised the bracket by 3.5mm by making a base plate using a piece of scrap ally + the switch diameter is also smaller than the bracket switch receiver so gained another mm by securing the switch at the top . There was no need to bend the bracket and the inhibitor switch ball sits in the middle of OVERDRIVE INHIBITOR CAM - Need to road test to confirm. NEWBIE ? does the OD share the gearbox oil ? Regards Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
68vitesse Posted August 15, 2017 Report Share Posted August 15, 2017 Overdrive and gearbox use the same oil, plug on the side of the gearbox about half way up, this also sets the level for gearbox and overdrive. Regards Paul 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DerekS Posted August 15, 2017 Report Share Posted August 15, 2017 Paul, I know it's extra work for you but before you replace the gearbox cover, consider putting an access panel in to get to the gearbox filler. It would save a lot if grief in the future. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul H Posted August 15, 2017 Author Report Share Posted August 15, 2017 Ive done that.plus lined the cover with sound deadening pads. Regards Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD Posted August 15, 2017 Report Share Posted August 15, 2017 Ooooooh! Don't get Marcus started on that! He thinks only Southern wuss jessies don't scrabble about under the car to refill the 'box! JOhn Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougbgt6 Posted August 15, 2017 Report Share Posted August 15, 2017 John, I'm Scottish and I find Marcus's comments unreadable. I don't understand why he writes in this bizarre patwah, unrelated to his natural language. I'm sure he has something to say but, really, if it's not in English I can't be bothered. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dick Twitchen Posted August 17, 2017 Report Share Posted August 17, 2017 Doug, I think you mean 'patois' not 'fatwah'. Oh,dear where is this going. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougbgt6 Posted August 17, 2017 Report Share Posted August 17, 2017 Dick, patois, patwah and also patwa are the same thing and all correct spellings, Wikipedia says so, so it must be true! Fatwah is what Marcus has on Southern Jessies! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul H Posted August 17, 2017 Author Report Share Posted August 17, 2017 UPDATE Just been for a test drive and the overdrive works as it should - no Overdrive light flicker and relay / solenoid clicking - So it looks like it was the inhibitor switch not making contact with inhibitor cam, all sorted with a piece of scrap ally plate ( thanks for this idea Pete ) Thanks for all inputs - appreciated Next job is to fit the parcel which arrived from Canleys today - New front discs / pads Rear shoes & drums on order will be here by the end of the month - Canleys gave me the best price + I get a detailed invoice - Has the Club Shop sorted this out yet Best regards Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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