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Overdrive Issues - Vitesse Mk2


Paul H

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Overdrive is cutting out - Gearboxes & Overdrives are alien to me at present . Initially Overdrive worked ( pretty sure its a D Type ) . A buddy installed  a warning light so when the OD was switched ( column stalk)  a light came on.

 

Currently with ignition on ( engine not started )  and selecting 3 or 4  gear , there is an audible click ( solenoid ? ) and the warning light goes on . Sometimes using OD it works then as time goes on - 10 mins or so there is a clicking sound ( several clicks + OD light flickering  - Solenoid ???  ) and OD cuts out and wont work again for the journey -

 

Next day the OD light (+ clicking) will come on with ignition on when selecting 3 or 4 gears.

 

Both OD & Gearbox have been professionally rebuilt ( new wiring as previously there was no OD) by the late Clive Manvers . The original prop shaft was shortened and balanced . Ive checked the gearbox oil level ( EP90 ) and its fine - I did read it could be a pressure build up though dont understand enough yet to tinker.

 

Im hoping its something simple 

 

Thanks in advance 

 

Paul 

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If it is a D-type, see Canley's (John Kipping's) trouble shooting page: https://www.canleyclassics.com/technical-archive/the-d-type-overdrive

If not see the J-type page - it's on the menu.

 

The page now appears to be missing paragraphs, as it doesn't explain now how to check the filter.  This is on the opposite side to the solenoid, and the cover can be removed easily - four screws.

If the filter is full of "black hairy bits" then the cone clcutch is probably worn out.

 

What it does say is that most problems like yours are due to inadequare oil pressure.  The O/d includes a pump, driven from an eccentric on the input shaft.  If that doesn't develop enough pressure (>400psi!) then syumptoms like yours are typical.    DiY rebuild is possible, but I've always left it to an  expert with the special tools and experience.    By expert, I mean Mike Papworth. who advertises in the Courier and can be found online: http://www.classiccarwebsite.com/mike-papworth-triumph-parts

 

John

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OD probs are mainly elektikery related

 

the D Type es an adjustment for the solonoid push rod

if it has come loose, it,ll no go in, maybe a wee bit wen cold, then as it gets hot, it drops oot

 

other is the relay on the bulkheed

the contacts inside it can become dirty.

open it up, quite easy, bend tabs back, an it all comes apart

then check the contacts

 

infact, go all along the electrical wires, tug,n an push,n, see if there a dry joint

or water / moisture corrosion in em

 

Butt, first, check its got oil init

another way,   Is if the OD comes oot   going doon a steepish hill, then its low on oil

as oil is all noo int g box

 

If it stops in whenst going up,t hill, then its showing that its oil related

as all oil will noo be in the OD end, t,the detriment of the GB

 

M

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Sounds elecrical if the light does not come on when overdrive selected, where could depend on how the light was wired in. As Pete said check the adjustment on the inhibiter switches, they can also stick. Never bypass them as selecting and driving in reverse while in overdrive will cause damage.

 

Regards

 

Paul

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1st test is in 3rd or 4th move /load the gear stick sideways towards you ,

if things improve then the inhibitor switch on the front of the remote hsg, needs some small adjustment

 

do that let us know

 

pete

Hi Pete - test drive today - engaged  overdrive in 4th gear  today at 3000 revs , Overdrive kicked in  after about a minute the OD warning light started to flicker so manually held 4th gear and light went out - Did this a couple of times to prove so looks like the inhibitor switch needs adjusting - 

What do I do now ?????

Best regards 

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Afraid its a tunnel out job, the switch is in a brkt, on front of the remote assy

adjustment is by thinncard shim washers btween switch and bracket

I would take any fitted out.

 

if there are none then its new switch or bend the bracket

you can with care strip ,/uncrimp the switch its likely to be green inside.

 

pete

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Afraid its a tunnel out job, the switch is in a brkt, on front of the remote assy

adjustment is by thinncard shim washers btween switch and bracket

I would take any fitted out.

if there are none then its new switch or bend the bracket

you can with care strip ,/uncrimp the switch its likely to be green inside.

pete

Thanks pete

Regards

Paul

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If thd solenoid gets excessively hot then the holding coil is failing and the 10amp is not cutting back

the switch in the end of the sol get very corroded , old can be cleaned newer is solidstate

 

you can fiddle the bottom screw out if you stick short tube over the screwdriver to keep it on the screw head its a pain to remove.

 

use socket cap screws when replacing

 

pete

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Removed the gearbox cover , the inhibitor switch doesnt have any shims . All wiring , solenoid, switch appears new which it should be . The only thing I noticed was that the "striker plate" where the ball bearing switch touches is rather low on the plate ,post-1431-0-17828300-1502723492_thumb.jpg bending the bracket will make the bearing switch even lower - I will now test the switch to ensure its not faulty - see pics 

 

Regards

Paul 

post-1431-0-50902400-1502723414_thumb.jpg

post-1431-0-80365700-1502723437_thumb.jpg

post-1431-0-89994400-1502723472_thumb.jpg

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Just checked the inhibitor switch and its fine , just a few thou movement activates the switch and the switch works every time using a multimeter - in 4th gear its clear that the switch is too low and drops off the striker plate ,

 

Is the striker plate adjustable in that it can be rotated a few degrees clockwise or can i get a longer switch - The ref numbers on the switch are "FAE     X10    40120" . I could achieve the correct positioning if I elongated the switch bracket hole but this would be a bodge .

 

Regards

Paul 

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If its low you could add washers under the bracket

 

the ols lucas switches were a SA141 or similar like the one in your reverse switch some had long threads you had thin nuts to make it adjustable,

 

later just had the fibre shims, , so would a rise in brkt height and a bend make it workable ??

pete

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If its low you could add washers under the bracket

the ols lucas switches were a SA141 or similar some had long threads you had thin nuts to make it adjustable,

later just had the fibre shims, , so would a rise in brkt height and a bend make it workable ??

pete

Thanks Pete, raising the bracket makes sense

Regards

Paul

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UPDATE : raised the bracket by 3.5mm by making a base plate using a piece of scrap ally + the switch diameter is also smaller than the bracket switch receiver so gained another mm by securing the switch at the top . 

 

There was no need to bend the bracket and the inhibitor switch ball sits in the middle of OVERDRIVE INHIBITOR CAM - post-1431-0-17629600-1502801179_thumb.jpg

 

Need to road test to confirm.

 

NEWBIE ? does the OD share the gearbox oil ? 

 

Regards

Paul 

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John, I'm Scottish and I find Marcus's comments unreadable. I don't understand why he writes in this bizarre patwah, unrelated to his natural language. I'm sure he has something to say but, really, if it's not in English I can't be bothered.

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UPDATE Just been for a test drive and the overdrive works as it should :)  :)  :)  :)  :) - no Overdrive light flicker and relay / solenoid clicking - So it looks like it was the inhibitor switch not making contact with inhibitor cam, all sorted with a piece of scrap ally plate ( thanks for this idea Pete ) 

 

Thanks for all inputs - appreciated 

 

Next job is to fit the parcel which arrived from Canleys today - New front discs / pads

 

Rear shoes & drums on order will be here by the end of the month - Canleys gave me the best price + I get a detailed invoice - Has the Club Shop sorted this out yet 

 

Best regards

Paul 

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