Spitfire 1500 Engine Rebuild

[rogerguzzi]

18 minutes ago, Anglefire said:

Thanks Roger,

No I have the two side defectors - its the frame the wide and narrow rad fits onto - part number TKC1761 - its less than £20 so didn't think worth the time and effort to sort the old one out.

Good news on the exhaust - this one came from Rimmers originally and has the middle through box too. 

Hello

             These people have them is stock I think

http://www.jamespaddock.co.uk/radiator-cradle-2

Roger

[Anglefire]

They have indeed  

[AidanT]

Plus vat and postage btw

Aidan

[Anglefire]

That's true - but I was paying carriage and the dreaded anyway - so it works out at about £30. Still a lot less effort than repairing and repainting the one I have - though I will probably give it a coat of buzzweld CIO before I fit it just to give it some protection.

With luck will be with me tomorrow. So a job for the weekend. 

[Anglefire]

And now showing as notify when they become available!

[Anglefire]

Its arrived  - ruddy big box, which when I started to open it had other boxes (as packing) in talking about christmas stuff, so wasn't sure it was the frame until it was fully opened 

Just got to make 100% sure it will fit then will paint it as it is just really in a primer. Then I can fit it and fill it with water and get the dizzy in!

[Anglefire]

Well, tonight I decided to have a quick play tonight and checked the frame - and it’s spot on.  so I’ve painted it in black CIO. Looks good. 

And had another look at the dizzy - and worked out why it won’t go in. Or wouldn’t go in. The pump drive was slightly out of alignment and once I got that right, it went in with no issue. 

[Anglefire]

Despite the snow here today, I’ve got the new frame in and the rad all bolted in. Just got to get some water in the engine now and set the static timing up and see if it will start. 

[Anglefire]

It runs ? 

Took a bit more time than I planned because it was a pig getting the bottom starter bolt in. Given that the car is on the ground and in the garage so can only just get in that side of the car. (It’s snowing so wasn’t taking the car outside. )

and id forgotten to connect the engine earth up when I fitted the engine bolts - so had to fit that. 

I cranked it with no plugs in and the oil light didn’t go out - but it wasn’t spinning very fast - so decided to go for broke - fitted all the plugs and tried again- especially as the battery seemed to be dying ?

This time the oil light did go out - almost straight away so must have been very close before. 

But wouldn’t start. Had a look back in the engine bay and found the centre lead just about fallen out - touched it and it did fall out. So fitted that and with a bit more choke started up nicely with the oil light out straight away again. 

Sounded nice idling at just under 900rpm - so a little low for cold starting. 

Exhaust sounds nice too. Not noisy but a nice sound. 

Have made a little recording - and it sounds a little more tappetty than it does in the flesh - I’ll try and post it later. 

Given that I’ve not checked the carbs more than a cursory glance and not adjusted them at all, I’m pretty chuffed that I didn’t have more trouble. 

Couple of water leaks to sort - hopefully just a case of tightening the clips. 

[Anglefire]

Not sure if this will work. And excuse the mess

 

[Anglefire]

I’ve run it up again since and flushed the wrong antifreeze out. Did another recording of the exhaust - does sound nice I think. 

 

[Anglefire]

Almost the end of this now.

Got the right antifreeze in today and the final 3 bolts around the bell housing fitted - so did take it for a short run around the block - missed a little under load - so had a look at the timing and carbs - and the timing was a little retarded so advanced it a bit - and it certainly picked the revs up as it went back - the timing mark is also as steady as a rock now too - but then with a refurbed dizzy I would hope so!

Carbs were out of balance too - so got them sorted (One was reading 7 and the other 4 on my carb balancer - now both on about 4.5) and idling nicely at about 900rpm. Thinking about it, I didn't see the revs change much with the vacuum off - so better check the pipe to make sure its not blocked!

 

[Anglefire]

Had another tinker today as it was dry!  - just final bits and bobs, like refitting the air horns (very old but still work!) the side air deflector on the passenger side, oil pressure sender and lashed in the gauge temporarily - it needs adjusting as it moves to about 20psi when its not running!

Anyway, got it all sorted and went for a spin - drives like it has no pull at all. I think it is either ignition timing or fuel.

The dizzy has been refurbed, so that shouldn't be an issue, but can never rule it out - the mechanical advance works as when you rev it, the timing moves as it should. Its ok to about 2000rpm then it starts to run a bit rough and doesn't want to pull - back off the throttle and it will build up the revs. I'm thinking its either fuel or the vac advance is either not working properly - or the carb barb is blocked as the pipe is the one that came off the old engine. Pull the pipe off and nothing appears to happen - but at idle that should be right?

I did lift the carb pins and the revs picked up and dropped back which I think is what should happen?

The engine is as smooth as a smooth thing when idling - and revs lovely with no load.

I did adjust the timing again to about 12deg BTDC - it was 14 and seemed a little better - or have I gone the wrong way?

I'll have to have a read up and see what I can work out.

Might be needles in the carbs being wrong I guess - actually I have a question about the carbs, but I'll do  post in the right section!