Spitfire 1500 Engine Rebuild

[Anglefire]

Another update - as I mentioned earlier I ordered a standard dIzzy from the Doctor - who initially said it would be December - then had a bit of a mooch about and thought he had a spare core available and would see if he could get it done earlier - well its arrived today! And it looks brand new - very nice job and complete with calibration certificate.

Very much recommended based on what I've seen so far. 

[Anglefire]

On 01/11/2017 at 10:18 AM, Pete Lewis said:

do make sure you stick to 97+ or better fuel,  **95 ul was for side valves and mowers when these cars were born.

if you look under the rocker shaft face if its stamped TKC1155 its could already  be an unleaded head  there's some disparity over these numbers depends on 

supplier 

 

Pete

Pete,

Just had chance to have a look for the mark - I was expecting it to be under the rocker cover! 

It does appear to be TKC1155 

[Pete Lewis]

Trouble is these numbers get mixed descriptions in the suppliers listings ,

Its a good start to alread having exhaust inserts amd harder exhaust valves already fitted

The only way to find out is endoscope   or    head off

Pete

[Anglefire]

The guy I bought it off did say there was no valve regression. 

I do have a cheap USB camera - shame it is too cheap to be of any use 

[Pete Lewis]

You dont have to worry about  unleaded inserts there is so much lead memory in the cast iron to last for years of motoring

If you have a valve problem develop or you need the head of then is the time to consider fitting exhaust seat inserts

Otherwise just use a high ron 97+ fuel and drive ,  dont waste money on any aftermarket must haves like addatives they are just a waste of money with little gain ,  you should use the money to buy more fuel 

Pete

[Anglefire]

Apart from the first fill up last year, when I forgot, I've used Premium unleaded - usually BP or Shell.

Never used any additives either as you say no point.

[Guest]

Pete and Folks.

I have to confess that I have always gone with at least 97RON fuel for both of my classics and I do throw in standard Redex from time to time.

A PO of one of my classics always used 95RON, as the head had been converted to take UL fuel - he said that was fine; I on the other hand was not wholly convinced !!

How much difference does it make regarding combustion and actual running of the vehicle if the induction system, ignition and timing is tip-top and adjusted correctly ?? Having never used 95RON in classics, it is a Q that I have often considered from a theory angle rather than the pending application of such.

I accept the fact of potential pinking if the CR is too high with certain classics, for example 10:1 etc.

Regards.

Richard. 

[Steve P]

My 2.5 Vitesse hates it if i put 95 unleaded in it,it runs on and pinks badly.

Shell V Power for me if available.

S

[Guest]

Steve,

I get the feeling that is pretty much the norm for many classics.

Perhaps modern engines run a far leaner burn and as such pinking is not an issue, in fact I do not know what the CR is of modern petrol engines these days.

Anyway, thank goodness for 97RON and above still being available.

To date I have not had any issues using Esso 97 Supreme and sometimes Tesco 99 Momentum; needless to say it is a well trodden topic with classic owners having their preferred favourite fuels and of course the locality of fuel stations plays a part.

Regards.

Richard.

[Pete Lewis]

Ive often said when our cars were designed they are specified with setting for super grade fuel 5 *stuff aroind 100 101 octane

The 95ron  2*was for low compression side valves and motor mowers,

If you run with a low octane fuel then you have to retard the timing to give it time to burn, so this 

Becomes fairly simple in my book , you retard the spark to get the burn right , this creates more heat as the burn takes longer and has 

less effort in the 'bang' so a  low ron gives a late spark and a corresponding drop in performance

The pinking you hear is the effect of slow burning fuel knocking seven bells out the piston  crown

Well something like that

 

[Pete Lewis]

Ive often said when our cars were designed they are specified with setting for super grade fuel 5 *stuff aroind 100 101 octane

The 95ron  2*was for low compression side valves and motor mowers,

If you run with a low octane fuel then you have to retard the timing to give it time to burn, so this 

Becomes fairly simple in my book , you retard the spark to get the burn right , this creates more heat as the burn takes longer and has 

less effort in the 'bang' so a  low ron gives a late spark and a corresponding drop in performance

The pinking you hear is the effect of slow burning fuel knocking seven bells out the piston  crown

Well something like that

 

[Guest]

Thanks Pete, that's a useful insight and makes sense.

When you do a double post is that the signal for a "spot-the-difference" competition  !!

All the best.

Richard.

 

[Pete Lewis]

 Richard there is some delay down here , tonight and if nothing happens you just have to poke the tab one more time

Lucky there isnt 5

Its just my view, from a good few years in early petrol and diesel  emission testing  there wasnt much science about 

In the 70s80s  the bi product of  emmission results drove a big help in fuel consumption improvements

Pete

[Anglefire]

I've dropped the sump and pulled the no.2 bearing. I know what the words say, but are they are reasonable bearing?

[Pete Lewis]

Some hate them some get on well 

Whats the running side look like ???

[Anglefire]

The running side looks ok as far as I can tell. Are these the "Glacier" ones I've read about that the bearing face falls off?

The small line by my thumb is just a mark and not a score.

[Anglefire]

I’ve since read that the glacier ones have a G in a box stamped on the back - so this isn’t one of them.  

So what make are they Pete?  And why do you say some hate them other not?

[Clive]

They are stamped County, but are made by King (who are a decent manufacturer) 

However there are 2 grades available, std which are not ideal as they are Tin I think, and Trimetal (marked/sold as HD) which are better. The best were Vandervell VP1, my first engine rebuilds were done using them,straight from Kippings (now Canleys) but the supplies dried up many years ago. 

Worth replacing as pretty cheap anyway, about £30 for BE and mains. Check thrusts too....

[Anglefire]

Thanks Clive. I assumed std was just the size. 

I have looked at the prices and they aren’t expensive. I was hoping to avoid stripping the complete engine to get the crank out. But hey ho. 

[Clive]

Apologies, confusion re std. The std stamped on the shells should mean std size. 

In my post above I was referring to "quality"! Buy the HD/LC or whatever they are called, a few £ a set more than the std quality ones...

[Pete Lewis]

that shell looks pretty much like its hard ever run ,   ive seen much worst in brand new engines off production,  

theres no dirt inclusions ,or scuffing , look very good to me 

Pete

[Anglefire]

It’s never run Pete. I’m changing the oil pump because that wasn’t changed though was just in spec. 

I did pull that out yesterday too and the impeller has quite a few marks on it. But no sign of any other damage in the block that I could see. 

 

[Anglefire]

5 minutes ago, Anglefire said:

 

Apologies, confusion re std. The std stamped on the shells should mean std size. 

 

Thanks Clive. That’s put my mind at rest 

[Anglefire]

Ok, measured the end float on the crank - and when I push the crank all the way over, I can get a 12thou feeler down the gap.

The bearings aren't marked as to their size, so I guess they are standard (I'll measure them to be sure though not sure how thick they are as standard (yet)!

So on the basis that there should be between 4 and 8 thou end float, I need ideally 8 thou oversize. Which you can't get - so do I go 10 over or 5 over?

Or for the sake of £7 get both and see what fits best? 

[Anglefire]

Or get both and mix and match? 

There are some scrub marks on them too. Though they were in the wrong way round.  Which is why I was checking - everything else has been ok so far