ahebron Posted December 9, 2017 Report Share Posted December 9, 2017 For future use a 50/50 mix of ATF and Acetone is far superior to spray can release agents. Have a google Also an induction heater will heat it up nicely. I have and use one of these. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Pro-5V-12V-Low-Voltage-ZVS-Induction-Heating-Power-Supply-Module-Heater-Coil-PM/192285333847?epid=2214062564&hash=item2cc5195957:g:HKwAAOSwFWVZnCWd Adrian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AidanT Posted May 5, 2018 Report Share Posted May 5, 2018 On 24/11/2017 at 4:09 PM, JohnD said: If the manifold stud has useful threads, leave it alone! On the flange, again, it's the exposed threads that get eaten away, so if the rest are still there, use them! Double nutting is, to be honest, a desperate measure bordering in bodge. Invest in a stud extractor, NOT the type that forces a knurled wheel against the stud, but a 'roller' extractor (see below) that grips the stud allong oits length and won't damage it. Not cheap about £10 each. As Pete said, non-ferrous nuts will help prevent them seizing again, but not Brass, which is a soft metal. You need Bronze nuts, available in eBay, again not cheap, about 50p each, but worthwhile. John Need to ask again about the best route for stud extractors I have now got my engine for refurb I will need to remove multiple studs from exhaust manifold to water pump to head. The ones above seem to be for specific sizes, the one Adrian decided on does multiple sizes If the better ones are per John then what sizes do i need to buy? And where is the best source? Aidan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted May 5, 2018 Report Share Posted May 5, 2018 the laser chuck type takes any size from 6mm to around 12mm they are german made by Klann KL0181-3 these self tightens on removals and lets go itself on tightening designed for use with hand !/2" drive or impact gun, will hold studs with as little as 3mm proturduing worth every penny . available from all over the place Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted May 5, 2018 Report Share Posted May 5, 2018 I bought mine from Frost, they come in a box of four and will fit all sorts of sizes. Very easy to use and no damage. Unless of course you snap the stud off, but that's unlikely in normal use. https://www.frost.co.uk/4-piece-stud-puller-set.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AidanT Posted May 5, 2018 Report Share Posted May 5, 2018 Thanks both Aidan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD Posted May 5, 2018 Report Share Posted May 5, 2018 I use specific sized extractors. No reaosn to chnage - very effective! JOhn Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeteH Posted May 6, 2018 Report Share Posted May 6, 2018 Hi Not having access to either Stud extractors, nor to an impact gun. The following worked well. Weld a Nut to the end of said Stud. (assuming not already broken flush!). This has a second effect of introducing heat into the stud/head/manifold interface. Apply release fluid of choice, (in my case, gas oil). Start by Gently progressively tightening and un-tightening the assembly. I have had a high success rate with this method. ranging from 4mm up to 50mm. (Marine Practice). I have actually removed a near flush broken stud this way on one occasion, but not from a casting. Using an old welding glove suitably "doctored" helped protect the surroundings from weld over-splash. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AidanT Posted May 13, 2018 Report Share Posted May 13, 2018 Hi - back to this again Received the one Pete recommended and as I have pre-soaked in plus gas for a couple of weeks all came out with a spanner easily I have a couple of questions I will be putting a new set of studs in, but there seems to be three sizes. Looking at the parts diagrams there seem to be three sizes PN: 105124, 105125 are these 5/16 UNF? and 101962. I assume the last of these is the thicker size but can tell me what that size is please? Whats the best way to refit the studs? Double nutting? Lastly what quantities are needed? Canleys suggest 13 in total - seems a little odd! (no pun intended!) Thanks Aidan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted May 13, 2018 Report Share Posted May 13, 2018 The hardware book should list them , but its out in the dark just now The stud driver , just give it a good nip and when wound in it will release at a suitable torque It tightens on removing and lets go on tightening ,, its a clever thingy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AidanT Posted May 14, 2018 Report Share Posted May 14, 2018 Thanks Pete. Is this another book I need to invest in? I have most but none seem to provide all the part dimensions I think the 13 is right as there are two studs with no thread I assume used to position the gaskets and manifolds making 15 in all same as the gasket Is it better to purchase a whole gasket set for the rebuild? Aidan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted May 14, 2018 Report Share Posted May 14, 2018 There plain are dowls to controll location Used on front rear engine plates and manifolds Yes there is a hardware manual I will have look after breaky Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AidanT Posted May 14, 2018 Report Share Posted May 14, 2018 Thanks Pete Sounds like a useful book - can you give me some more details and I will have a search for one Are they hens teeth? Aidan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted May 14, 2018 Report Share Posted May 14, 2018 none of those studs are in the hardware manual all are 5/16 unf ( no 3/8") but looking its 124/125 short /long are mani to head and 101962 is downpipe to exhaust mani flange Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AidanT Posted May 14, 2018 Report Share Posted May 14, 2018 Ok thanks Pete. There are long and short ones I agree but one of the remaining studs in the spare vitesse engine that I took out of the head at the weekend is definitely a thicker stud. Possible I guess that a P.O. has re-tapped one I will recheck the head once its off Aidan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NonMember Posted May 14, 2018 Report Share Posted May 14, 2018 Which mk or Vitesse? The Mk1 manifolds are weird and the studs are a mix of mostly 3/8" UNF but 5/16" UNF for inlet retainers. It's a while since I took the manifolds off my GT6 so I don't remember the Mk2 details. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AidanT Posted May 14, 2018 Report Share Posted May 14, 2018 Hi Its a Mk2 Vitesse engine - looking at the various pics of the gasket, I think the plate is wrong on Canleys or does not show all the holes, including dowel slots. I didn't think this was a difficult question () but there looks to be 16 Then again when I look at the Canleys parts list the quantity of parts don't add up - Dowels 2, short studs 4, long studs 6 that's a total of 12 It does mention 101962 2 off as an addition to the short studs and this is on the Mk2 2 Litre cylinder head plate, so not the exhaust manifold but that STILL does not make 16 Aidan This should be exactly the same as the Mk2 GT6 Engine yes? Not consistent, the MK2 GT6 Head plate on Canleys shows three off of the 101962 aagghhhhhh! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted May 14, 2018 Report Share Posted May 14, 2018 trouble is these studs are used across the range not just 2ltr is also used on the back plate to fix the gearbox on and on the three on the exhaust are all the same diameter, on manifolds and others stud length for the same aplication change length is the sudd is used to support a water pipe or spring brackets etc so theres no clear science on this easy if you fit one too long add a nice washer,........... if it turns out too short.........start again ha you could offer up the fitting first before you commit to a stud length Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AidanT Posted May 14, 2018 Report Share Posted May 14, 2018 Pete I was going to buy a pack of each from Bresco as they have always provided me with decent kit. This is why I wanted to know what the larger size was from the 5/16 short and long versions. They are all UNF I assume so what would the next size up be? maybe I should just buy a mix Aidan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted May 14, 2018 Report Share Posted May 14, 2018 same as all the unified bolts threads 1/4 unf 5/16 unf 3/8"unf i dont know of any bigger studs on the cars some studs into alloy may be a UNC coarse threaded one end. Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NonMember Posted May 14, 2018 Report Share Posted May 14, 2018 Looking at the Canleys diagrams, I think my memory is right. There are three types of studs used, and only one is 5/16". The inlet manifold is held, at the top, by three 5/16" studs, 101962 The exhaust manifold is held, ends and top, by four 3/8" studs, 105124 The whole lot is then clamped by six double-ended clamps on 3/8" studs, 105125. I think the dowels locate the inlet manifold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AidanT Posted May 14, 2018 Report Share Posted May 14, 2018 Thanks I will go the garage this evening and have a better look - 3 + 4 + 6 = 13 plus two dowels is 15! I will double check the total no: holes to Aidan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NonMember Posted May 14, 2018 Report Share Posted May 14, 2018 On the total number of holes, be aware that the manifold gasket (and possibly the manifold and head) may have provision for three dowels but the factory only ever fitted two. This is not uncommon. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AidanT Posted May 14, 2018 Report Share Posted May 14, 2018 Thanks "nonmember" btw are you going to reveal your name to us all at some point? or did I miss that post !! Can you use bolts instead of studs? Aidan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted May 14, 2018 Report Share Posted May 14, 2018 yes but the studs aid alignment on refitting the manifolds and keep the gasket in place and you dont want a long bolt to bottom out or break into the water jacket Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NonMember Posted May 14, 2018 Report Share Posted May 14, 2018 2 hours ago, Pete Lewis said: yes but the studs aid alignment on refitting the manifolds and keep the gasket in place and you dont want a long bolt to bottom out or break into the water jacket That last one is important to note. I'm not sure on the Mk2 head but on the Mk1 the studs for either end of the exhaust manifold enter the water jacket and removing them empties all your coolant. I know this because a previous owner fitted bolts instead... P.S. I have put my first name in the signature but I suppose I could add the surname, too, if you want. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now