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Sheared halfshaft... scary


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Just thought of course there will be some drag when turning just one wheel so yours could be normal. If you turn the propshaft both wheels should turn equally and with minimal drag.... 

32 minutes ago, Straightsix said:

johny yes drag is felt on both sides, tried raising wheel hubs with another trolley jack so driveshafts not angled downwards made no difference.

 

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Trigolf

Well spotted re spring locations, I didn’t spot that.

I didn’t disturb the brakes purely a visual check, albeit not that good 🤦🏼‍♂️.

Appreciate your help with driveshaft issue.

I’ll tackle issues again when time and motivation returns, probably in the spring sorry about the pun. 🤦🏼‍♂️

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at least the shoes were fitted the right way round ....that makes a change 

hand brake adjustment 

disconnect the cable from the wheel cyl lever, dont let the axle "hang"on full droop

fully lock the adjuster up hard , now connect the cable to a neat fit, no tension.no slack 

de adjust the 4 clicks  (one full turn )  all should be fine

there is a wear  that upset cylinder slide thats a wear groove in the back plate caused by the handbrake lever pivot

the angle of the compensator is important  its operating angle is in most manuals 

Pete

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Not really related to any specific failure, but it is worth considering, with any fastener, "has it been over tightend in it`s past", and by definition taken beyond its elastic limit? that and "notches" produced by poor machining practices, have been the source/start point of many a failure.

Peter

Edited by PeteH
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Most of our cars have old shafts and who knows what PO's have done with them. I doubt very much if anything made today is the same as back in the 1960's. All this is making me reluctant to use my car with the torque produced by a 2.5 litre engine.

Modding it to Mk2 rear suspension is way beyond me now.

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32 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said:

think thats a good view ,  with   a light right foot with  increased power with a limited drive line 

keep it happy   

Pete

 

Not sure I see the point in fitting a more powerful engine if you aren't going to use it though, a standard GT6 is no slouch after all 😃

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My car was a present from my son after I had treatment, so a total surprise to find it had the 'Wrong' engine. Having said that it runs very nicely.

I believe that the drive shafts are beefier than Herald ones (Except 13/60 maybe). I know that the u/j kits have larger diameter inserts. Using a Torque wrench to take the hubs off broke nothing, even at 150 lb/ft, so I may be ok.

It required that torque to remove the left hub, even after hammering and gentle heating.

 

Edited by Wagger
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Pretty difficult to do much in the sensitive outboard end area without having to completely redesign the bearing and hub.

I think a key and taper was a strange idea as usually one OR the other is used - not having a keyway would have removed a potential failure point...

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and as a youngster with less experience than the later years i removed the whole diff in the dark  a torch

in the cold ,ended up with a boing as the spring came up and hit the floor, dropped the diff to find all i needed was to remove the short shaft hsg,   well you learn as you develop.     have no recollection of how i got the spring back  

all done on jacks and blocks . yikes !!!

i was a lot quicker at extricating in those days   ha !

Pete

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