Chris A Posted August 5, 2018 Report Share Posted August 5, 2018 Hi everyone on this HOT afternoon. I am beginning to suspect the voltage stabiliser is on its way out. The temp gauge recently started to read higher than before, it is a new sensor but the previous was doing the same (I think). The feul gauge which normally was fairly accurate also seems to reading high. The gauge goes up to a goog 3/4 point and tends to stay there with occasional slight drops and rises to just nudge the red. I usually fill with fuel when the gauge is close to 1/4 when it would take 20 somethin litres. Today the needle was mid way between 1/2 & 3/4 and needed 16 and a bit litres, i.e.slightly over 1/2 a tank. It may be that as the needle drops it does get more accurate. Before anyone asks, no coolant is being lost, thermostat & rad cap haven't been changed. The top hose can be touched after a long run and the bottom one is noticeably cooler. I have ordered an infra red ray gun to check the temperatures. Cooling system has recently been flushed out. I checked the voltage arriving at the temp sensor a got fluctuating readings with a high of 10.8 lots of 10 point somethings, 9s and also very low scores as well. I havn't calculated an average as that would require noting the voltage and time duration... What sort of readings should I get? I would just order a new stabiliser but, as you all know, Triumph chose to mount it in, lets say, a less than convienient location! "Hot & bothered" in Normandy ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougbgt6 Posted August 5, 2018 Report Share Posted August 5, 2018 Chris, There is no reason for the stabiliser to be where it is, just convenient during factory assembly. I would leave it there, get the wires off and connect to an electronic replacement, light enough to dangle behind the dash. £10/11 on Ebay. Doug Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badwolf Posted August 5, 2018 Report Share Posted August 5, 2018 Chris. Do a global search on 'voltage stabiliser' on the forum as this has been covered before I think by Pete & Doug. There is an electronic version available, probably on ebay UPDATE..Doug can type faster than me!!!! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave.vitesse Posted August 5, 2018 Report Share Posted August 5, 2018 Chris, sounds right to me. As the original voltage stabiliser sends a series of pulses who's average is 10 volts the only way you can test the thing is with the slow acting, hot wire, Voltmeter. If both gauges are reading high as you say odds on it's the stabiliser. It was a clever design for its day 1950's as electronic weren't robust or small enough at that time. Be careful not to short the replacement electronic type to earth as they don't have any overload protection and will burn out. Using a 7810 chip, which does have protection is a better bet. See the early Spitfire Column in this months Courier. Don't do your back in changing it! Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougbgt6 Posted August 5, 2018 Report Share Posted August 5, 2018 Just to add to Dave's comment, there used to be some dodgy electronic ones on ebay. But it only requires a couple of components to protect the chip and most for sale these days have them, best to look around and read specifications. db Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badwolf Posted August 5, 2018 Report Share Posted August 5, 2018 Just had a quick look for other postings referring to the voltage stabiliser. There are a lot. Now thinking about changing mine. There are loads listed on ebay, so can someone point us all in the right direction with a reference for the correct unit. Also (Doug/Pete/Dave) can you list the guages that are sensitive to having a dodgy VS. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougbgt6 Posted August 5, 2018 Report Share Posted August 5, 2018 BW, the one I bought was this, I think, Ebay No. 132692934426, (sorry can't copy and paste at the moment) 12 volts in, 10.5volts out and earth. Be sure to tell him if you are _ve or +ve earth The gauges it feeds are Fuel and Temperature. You'll see above in Chris's original, if both gauges are acting up it's the VS responsible! Doug Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted August 5, 2018 Report Share Posted August 5, 2018 just refering to Dougs fast typing he's known to manage 3500 letters a minute , if you want it in words its about 25 just to add the old style must be case earthed and with the words top at the top. or you get false readings dont think the electronic ones need earthing as Doug likes his dangling about !! Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave.vitesse Posted August 5, 2018 Report Share Posted August 5, 2018 The chip, 7810, has it's own inbuilt protection. It's a device that was first produced in the late 1970's. I used one then and it's still in a local's Spit today, so very reliable. It's an industry standard voltage regulator chip. Comes in voltages 7805, 7809, 7810, 7812, 7812, 7815 and 7824. It has a current capacity of 1 amp, above that it will limit and then shut down. The non chip type that have no protection have a series transistor with a voltage reference zener diode controlling it's base voltage. In other words no protection. If the output lead touches ground then the series transistor burns out. A lot are this type. Agree with Doug, Read the spec and ensure it has overload protection or just build your own using one of these chips. Only three wires. See the early Spitfire Column in this months Courier, it's a good article. Both type must have the case earthed. Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougbgt6 Posted August 5, 2018 Report Share Posted August 5, 2018 Pete, electronic ones DO need an earth, it disappears inside the plastic body. So no need to clamp and you can let it dangle, at whatever angle suits. db 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris A Posted August 5, 2018 Author Report Share Posted August 5, 2018 1 hour ago, dave.vitesse said: Don't do your back in changing it! Dave Too late! Did it in 2005. Disc removed, another wouldn't pass the MOT so now function on Paracetamol, opium & caffeine (under prescription) with liberal doses of alcohol in various guises. It looks as is the common view is as I thought VS on way out. No way am I going to build one, I have enough trouble with LEGO! I am interested in the electronic replacement that can just hang in there. I'll look at the links quoted in replies but if someone can give an actual part number I would be very grateful. Time for my medecine, now from which bottle? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris A Posted August 5, 2018 Author Report Share Posted August 5, 2018 Doug, thanks for the link. Been in contact with him and unit ordered. Now I will have to practice my limbo dancing to get supple enough to disconnect the old unit & fit new one, delivery from UK usually takes 7 to 10 days so I have time ! Thanks to everyone for your input. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave.vitesse Posted August 5, 2018 Report Share Posted August 5, 2018 Chris OK about the back, sorry I didn't know. Not to sure about the part numbers. The example I have was bought by a local about four years ago from one of the major Triumph spares supplier. It is the unprotected type, now duff, they were using the original Stanpart number to sell it. It is in an original style, metal case, not plastic. Its advisable they are made in a metal case to dissipate the heat generated by the regulator as this will increase the life of the product. It will work in a plastic case, but don't get it too hot! Doug's dangle method should keep the plastic type ventilated! Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris A Posted August 5, 2018 Author Report Share Posted August 5, 2018 1 hour ago, dave.vitesse said: Chris OK about the back, sorry I didn't know. Don't worry about it I live with it and life has been adapted to it, I only drink 25 cl beers, no ice in my whisk(e)y to prevent any strain. Bought the Herald rather than a Ferrari as it would have been too low to get in. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougbgt6 Posted August 6, 2018 Report Share Posted August 6, 2018 Chris, just undo the centre console reach in and pull the two wires off the back of the old unit. Leave the old unit where it is! Who knows? Who cares? The wires have one male and one female connector the new unit the same, no room for error. All you need to find is a convenient earthing point. On the back of a gauge? I prefer the small bottles, my favourite continental beer, Peroni Gran Reserva, has recently moved from small bottles to 50cl, too much for 6.6%. Doug Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris A Posted August 6, 2018 Author Report Share Posted August 6, 2018 Hi Doug, Yes I am intending to leave the existing unit in place, as you say who cares, as for earthing point, once I have the unit and fit it I'll look around for a suitable and easy to attach point. "Just undo the centre console reach in and pull the two wires off the back of the old unit". YEA! Laying on my back on the drivers seat body twisted at 270°, arm bent in 3 different directions, fingers at least 20cm long and very thin . . . . I think I'll have a beer. Know what you mean about the 50cl bottles. Luckily my local artisan brewery has started doing more in 33cl as well as 50cl. Some progress is good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougbgt6 Posted August 6, 2018 Report Share Posted August 6, 2018 Chris, No, no! No laying down. Console undone and dangling, arm through the hole, hand on the back of the gauge, pull the wires. Simples! db Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris A Posted August 6, 2018 Author Report Share Posted August 6, 2018 Console? It's a 13/60 so dash is one piece unless I am mis interpreting something Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted August 6, 2018 Report Share Posted August 6, 2018 Ignore Doug his laptop drank his best wine the other night Console ...... its what you need after success. Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougbgt6 Posted August 6, 2018 Report Share Posted August 6, 2018 Ah! My mistake, thought everybody had one. Learning all the time. Pass the Cabernet. db Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badwolf Posted August 6, 2018 Report Share Posted August 6, 2018 Which is the correct voltage stabiliser for a MkIV 1300 Spitfire please. Ebay reference preferred! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted August 6, 2018 Report Share Posted August 6, 2018 6 hours ago, dougbgt6 said: No, no! No laying down. Undone and dangling, arm through the hole, hand on the back I'll say no more, but let you all fantasise for a bit.... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted August 6, 2018 Report Share Posted August 6, 2018 The VS is not model specific its gauge maker specific 10.5 volts is the target yourare looking for Caerbont instruments still make the smiths gauges and stabiliser which I guess now is a modern version Www.ciagauge.com Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris A Posted August 6, 2018 Author Report Share Posted August 6, 2018 1 hour ago, Badwolf said: Which is the correct voltage stabiliser for a MkIV 1300 Spitfire please. Ebay reference preferred! Further up in the thread there is a reference to an e bay item - I'm too hot to go looking ?and I'm havinga mug of tea ? I have ordered one for my Herald and the guy selling them has one on his Spit so drop him a line. I'm not near my proper computer, using one of those touch tablet thingys - you know the make Eye Patch or something like that so can't give proper details. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badwolf Posted August 6, 2018 Report Share Posted August 6, 2018 Thanks Chris, I missed an entire chunk of postings. Sadly Doug's ebay ref doesn't come up using my 'tablet thingy', will try on the big machine later. Afraid I don't have the electronics skills to identify the correct unit from the spec. Can only manage 'buy this one and connect it here with these leads'! Sad isn't it. UPDATE. Still no joy with Doug's ref no. Found this one which could be the same unit. Don't want to get the wrong one and fry anything. 132732212907 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now