dave.vitesse Posted February 5, 2019 Report Share Posted February 5, 2019 Colin, You can do a mod by fitting a bearing to the top of the strut. It make the steering lighter. I did it on my TR7 a number of years ago. Sorry no pictures as I did it in a freezing cold lock-up with not power, so just wanted to get it done! There should be some info on the web. It's looking good. Dave 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted February 6, 2019 Author Report Share Posted February 6, 2019 Thanks Dave - that's an impressive mod and following your post I'm already making preparations to do it. it makes so much more sense than having a washer sliding about on top of a plastic bush, and obviously eliminates both wear and friction.The bearing I require is an old Ford Sierra bearing, still widely available so I'll get two from eBay; they're around £13 - £14 each if I avoid the ridiculously cheap ones and the really expensive ones.... I've already made arrangements to have the metal cones drilled out on the lathe to the spec shown; this avoids raising the front of the car when the thicker bearing is placed on top of the strut. It has already saved me the price of the large washer plus two of the bushes, but no doubt AJM Engineering will charge me half a dozen sticky buns for the lathe work. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave.vitesse Posted February 7, 2019 Report Share Posted February 7, 2019 That's the type I fitted. I also fitted 200lb slightly lower springs all round so height wasn't a problem. The standard springs are 165lb, quite soft. The first bush normally helps centre the damper rod. Your's is an excellent job and maybe what Triumph should have done in the first place Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted February 15, 2019 Author Report Share Posted February 15, 2019 Half a ton of metal has arrived from the shotblaster; it was a ton when I sent it..... I got lazy and with my compressor only deciding to work when it wants to this was a quicker solution. He remembered blasting Herald parts for me back in 2008, and was amazed when I gave him the same parts again, still in primer, to be blasted a second time.... I must get that car started! Anyway the TR7 subframe has come up a treat, and has been etch-primed, rustproofed and is now in a coat of stonechip ready for the topcoat. Once painted I'll fill it with Waxoyl before refitting. I bit the bullet and went for polybushes all round. Expensive, but they look nice... The lower links were blasted, but in a fit of pennypinching I intended to reuse the original balljoints. Then, in a fit of remorse at being a miser, I decided they'd be full of blast grit, and was proved right once I took the rubber caps off. Corner cutting never works in the long run. I beat the old ones out with a large hammer - works for me - and pressed the new ones in using a vice before fitting the large circlip. My back muscles are still aching from hanging on the vice handle.They're a tight fit. That large circlip needs about four hands too. It's a job I'm glad to have completed, and got out of the way. I've no intention of taking these bits apart again, ever. I'm using polybushes on these too, and on the anti-roll bar. I'm stalled a bit as AJM Engineering can't machine the top cones to take the uprated strut top bearings until next week at the earliest. I'll just have to start on the propshaft and diff until they can fit me in. I can't complain as all it costs me is biscuits, and for a really big job - chocolate biscuits. For M&S Extremely Chocolatey Biscuits they'd sell me a 50% share in the business, but I've no room for all the machinery. All of the other bits, including the radiator support bracket, are now in their first light sprinkling of black primer ready for a few more coats and then the topcoat of gloss black. After that, le reassembly, as our French neighbours say. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bordfunker Posted February 15, 2019 Report Share Posted February 15, 2019 Looking good Colin, the parts not you! Always nice to see parts in primer, feels like progress. Karl Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave.vitesse Posted February 15, 2019 Report Share Posted February 15, 2019 Looks good to me. Those bottom ball joints can be real pigs to get out of the lower arm. Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted February 17, 2019 Author Report Share Posted February 17, 2019 On 15/02/2019 at 17:25, dave.vitesse said: Looks good to me. Those bottom ball joints can be real pigs to get out of the lower arm. Dave One was, and one wasn't, Dave. This fits in with my notion that one side of the car has been replaced; whether accident damage or just cost-cutting maintenance I don't know, but one strut had the remains of blue paint and was far less rusty than the other side, which was just rust and everything was seized solid. In any case, the other (rusty) side has now been dismantled and is currently in primer. (I ran out of gloss top coat.) As I can't get paint until Monday, I've started on the engine again. The oil pump was leaking very badly, all over the clutch slave cylinder, which was so oily I couldn't tell if it too was leaking, so off it came as well. This is an old photo from a few months back; the entire underside of the engine has been stripped down now so this is all history. Am I right to say that there's no gasket on the oil pump, but it relies on metal to metal contact and a good O-ring to seal it? This one leaked everywhere, but was screwed in so tightly (possibly in a futile attempt to stop the leak?) that I broke a socket extension bar taking the last bolt out. I'll have to order a repair kit from Robsport, as replacement pumps are supposed to be poor quality reproductions. I was worried on checking the photo that this one had had a piece of the housing broken off and had to run out and check, but it's only an oil stain on the metal. I'll replace all of the O-rings - three, I believe - plus the pressure relief spring. I still think a gasket would help, though. I'll also replace the engine mountings; plus I believe this gearbox mounting is slightly past its' best? That's too far along the underside of the car for now, but I might as well buy the parts in advance when I'm getting the other items; it saves time and postage later on. I'll finish the front, then start the gearbox and propshaft, and finish on the rear axle. Judging by the oil over this, there's a gearbox oil seal gone too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave.vitesse Posted February 17, 2019 Report Share Posted February 17, 2019 Two areas to look at one is the O rings on the oil pump. The other is the oil transfer cover where the oil pressure switch screws into. That has O rings that may need replacing. I agree, you may need to use some sealer if the surfaces are in a poor condition. Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted February 17, 2019 Author Report Share Posted February 17, 2019 I went out to the garage an hour ago and dismantled the oil pump. I actually had to reassure myself that I had not sent it for shotblasting; the amount of gritty particles in it was nothing ordinary. I couldn't believe it when I rotated my finger inside the aperture for the pressure relief valve. It was like oily sand. I think, to be on the safe side, that I may need to replace it after all. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted February 22, 2019 Author Report Share Posted February 22, 2019 After a fairly intensive week of late nights I've reached the final stretch with the front end. The subframe has now cleaned up beautifully, looking almost like new, and is full of Waxoyl so should last for another few years. It's ready for fitting once the front chassis legs are cleaned up and repainted, then rustproofed inside and out. I just wish they would use nuts and bolts that I have in the garage already, instead of having to order each as they're required, and then find out when the order arrives that I'm short yet another odd size that I missed and that nothing else will fit - lower engine mounting nut is one example.... I've also blasted the hubs and fitted new bearings, although thankfully I spotted - before fitting the new brake discs - that I'd left off the wheel studs. I'm reusing replacement studs of the original dimensions, not uprated versions. The bearing races were easy enough to drift into place once I found the correct size of 3/4 drive socket. I'll not grease them until fitting time to prevent dirt getting in. All of the other suspension components at the front end have cleaned up really well; I had to get a replacement top strut mounting, given the rusty state of the original (see the earlier photo and you'll agree with me!) but the other was easy to refurbish along with the two top spring cups, which have both received new nylon washers. I still haven't got the strut bearings machined up and fitted yet so that's all that's holding me back from refitting. (Apart from rustproofing the wheelarches and filling every possible cavity with Waxoyl.) I've remade the brake pipes to the front hoses as the metal ones were getting a bit pitted, but reused the original ends to make sure they're the correct threads. Next step is refurbishing the oil pump, which has cleaned up very well; fitting a new clutch slave cylinder, and then moving on to the gearbox and propshaft. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bordfunker Posted February 22, 2019 Report Share Posted February 22, 2019 They are looking a lot better with a cleanup and a coat of paint. Karl Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted March 7, 2019 Author Report Share Posted March 7, 2019 First time in the garage in over a week; even missed the local area meeting last night due to running flat out! I've found out why my reassembly of the oil filter housing was a bit of a mystery, in that the new filter just rolled about inside the housing. There were a few bits missing... the exploded diagram shows a spring-loaded plate which keeps the filter against the block. I didn't have one.... These are the two housing bolts I ended up with; the top one with the traces of red paint is the original. A rubber washer and a spring was all that was attached. The lower one has the filter plate plus the little spring clip that holds it all together. This means that the old filter was just floating around inside the casing and the oil was probably by-passing the element. Wonder how that affected the oil pressure? Replacement assembly obtained through Robsport and now all refitted. The recored and uprated radiator has now been refitted, and all the ancillaries nicely painted. It looks so much better than the old silver and faded black assembly that was there when purchased. Incidentally - it's a measure of how sad I've become when you realise that the white powdery marks on the engine bay paint are car polish. How bad to you have to be to polish the inside of the engine bay? Next step - this weekend, hopefully - is refitting the subframe and steering. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted March 8, 2019 Report Share Posted March 8, 2019 You will soon have a new car !!!! Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted March 8, 2019 Author Report Share Posted March 8, 2019 It feels like it, Pete! I haven't started gearbox, prop, diff or rear axle yet, and after that, there's the interior... I actually found an old on-line advertisement for mine - I'm presuming it was a few years back, around 2014, as it refers to December 2013, although it could be more recent; the seller remarks that it's his pride and joy, and he's had it for 22 years, always garaged etc. That means in less than four years it's rusted very heavily, had no oil, no antifreeze and no TLC, and the interior has faded to pale pink. I've also no idea why the numberplate would be of interest to TR7 owners... must check that one out. The asking price was four times what I paid for it, though.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave.vitesse Posted March 9, 2019 Report Share Posted March 9, 2019 It's looking good Colin. I fitted a spin-on adaptor for the oil filter. Uses the same type of filter as the GT6/Vitesse adaptor. Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martie Posted March 20, 2019 Report Share Posted March 20, 2019 Looking really good! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted March 21, 2019 Report Share Posted March 21, 2019 Remember Piano man and his rambling fact adverts Maybe he is related Pete 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
68vitesse Posted March 21, 2019 Report Share Posted March 21, 2019 Or car advertised as one careful owner no mention that the rest cound not care less. Regards Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted May 7, 2019 Author Report Share Posted May 7, 2019 I reckon I need to update this restoration, after such a long break! (I couldn't really go along to the In-laws' Engineering Works and say something along the lines of: 'Okay so we've had a rough month but it's no excuse for not finishing my strut tops....) However: they did, last Friday, and the Ford Granada bearings have now been inserted and are working well. This will really lighten the steering, in place of the original friction washer and nylon bush. Since everything else was sitting, ready to go, it was the work of only a few hours to have the entire front of the car reassembled again. Fully rebuilt struts, all rubber bits replaced and everything nicely painted; new bearings and brake discs, track rod ends and ball joints. The subframe has been replaced with poly bushes all round and filled with Waxoyl, so if it rusts now, there's no hope for the rest of the car. I made one slight error in that I fitted the steering rack first, then replaced the subframe, but forgot to attach the steering column to the rack. I'll have to experiment to see if the column will move upwards sufficiently to allow the joint to fit, or will I need to drop the subframe again? It's quite an amazing transformation, when you look at the before and after shots. A mass of rust with not one single rubber component left intact; now it's almost like new. Sadly, I now have to do the same to the rear axle and wheelarches... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted May 8, 2019 Author Report Share Posted May 8, 2019 And one more small point - I spent ages trying to work out how to fit the anti-roll bar, wondering why the clamps were handed and how they fitted at such an angle.... then I realised they're not. One of mine was bent way out of shape - the centre one in the photo. I suspect old accident damage as this was the side that had received the replacement strut. Replacement clamp now sourced so I can crack on with that job. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted May 26, 2019 Author Report Share Posted May 26, 2019 I've got as far as fitting the brake discs and pushed them onto the stub axles to keep them out of the way, with the nut over the first few threads and finger tight only. In order to complete the anti-rollbar fitting I took them off again, although the driver's side was strangely reluctant to move, and had to be rocked from side to side. On removal I noticed that the oil seal was distorted, and further inspection revealed it to be full of roller bearings. My wonderful eBay Triumph-Supplier bearings had fallen apart on fitting - not even on driving - and the inner race had remained on the stub axle, breaking off under light hand-pressure when being removed. I hadn't even tightened them to the correct position on the axle. I wasn't impressed and had to replace both with quality kits from another supplier. It could have been nasty at speed. Now that those have been replaced, I've managed to get one end of the ARB into place. The other end is playing silly b******. It needs to be pulled upwards and to one side, only half an inch or so, but I've tried jacking, and ratchet straps, and it doesn't like either, since they move it one direction but not the required two. The new polybushes are a nightmare to compress. I just need four arms or the loan of a WWF Wrestler and it'll go where required. That job done, and the brake calipers fitted, the front will be complete. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted May 26, 2019 Report Share Posted May 26, 2019 youre getting there ........... well somewhere its all worthwhile.....if you like torture Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted May 26, 2019 Author Report Share Posted May 26, 2019 I've actually realised that instead of buying this to restore... I should have been working on my Heralds... but then, as they all usually are, it was never meant to be a restoration, just a steering rack gaiter replacement then an MOT. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badwolf Posted May 26, 2019 Report Share Posted May 26, 2019 Colin - Don't worry, you're getting there slowly..... but not as slowly as me and I've only got the one car to play with. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bordfunker Posted May 26, 2019 Report Share Posted May 26, 2019 And you are certainly getting getting there a hell of a lot faster than me! Karl Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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