Colin Lindsay Posted November 18, 2018 Author Report Share Posted November 18, 2018 Ok. The electrics. The stop light switch pictured earlier had an errant blue and white wire which linked it to the flasher unit. The other twin wire went to a scotchlock into a white ignition system cable. So: both had to be linked into a powered circuit by a PO. Why? What is causing me most grief is that the flasher (19) is meant to have two cables - light green / brown and light green / slate. The first is there, the second, non-existent. Anywhere. It is however paired with a light green and white wire; the two are taped together a short distance away; this looks too neat to be an owner add-on. According to the wiring diagram light green and white is from the indicator switch so this may possibly be connected directly to the flasher, but not going by the diagram. The brake light switch (58) is meant to have two wires - green, and green / purple. The second is there, but not the first - however, I've located an unconnected green spade connector a short distance away, but this has two green wires, not one. I can't find any double-wired green connector on the wiring diagram. I'll have to wait until the battery is refitted again before I can test them, and I suspect I'm going to need a lot of fuses. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted November 28, 2018 Author Report Share Posted November 28, 2018 Now more electrickery! The double green cable remains unidentified as yet, but I've found another errant and unconnected one, this time bearing the marks of excessive heat damage. Is this the missing green / slate cable? It's been cut and replaced (crimped bullets! - top centre of middle pic) so we'll see what it does once the battery is connected. I've also found a spare blue and white cable hanging free behind the dash (centre left of middle pic) - I thought this colour coding was for lighting? There's also evidence of great heat above the ignition barrel, where the headlamp flasher and control lever are, but no sign of damage to the cables themselves. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougbgt6 Posted November 29, 2018 Report Share Posted November 29, 2018 Colin, I notice you are showing black/white wiring diagrams and I wondered if coloured were available, had a look around and yes they are, unfortunately haven't found a free one that's unfuzzy enough to be readable! http://www.wedgeparts.com/wiring.html But, what an odd selection of fuses. On a10 fuse box 4 for head lights, left and right low beam, left and righty high beam. (GT6 has one for both high beams (and famously NONE for low beam )) What are left and right condenser fans? And a giant 50amp catch all for everything else not covered. Once you've reached "normality" will you be adding/reconfiguring fuses? Doug Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted November 29, 2018 Author Report Share Posted November 29, 2018 Most of the coloured ones are an 800 x 600 gif image and very fuzzy; however I've found a good semi-coloured one in 1600 x 1237 downloaded from a site called readyjetset.co - that's all there is and the domain appears to be unregistered, so no attached or linked site, but the image came up under a Bing search and is downloadable. It's a lot clearer than the workshop manual version. Now THIS one is interesting as it shows a double green connection to the brake switch, which the black and white one does not: So: THAT might just be the unattached green double connection that I found earlier. I'm going to study it over a few coffees and see where my other unattached wires may be missing from. As for fuses: haven't even got that far yet! I suspect I may be adding a few additional ones for safety reasons, and probably relays too - there seems to be a lot of heat from the headlamp switch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NonMember Posted November 29, 2018 Report Share Posted November 29, 2018 1 hour ago, dougbgt6 said: What are left and right condenser fans? Presumably for cars fitted with aircon. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougbgt6 Posted November 29, 2018 Report Share Posted November 29, 2018 I made a mistake earlier ( it was the crack of half past 9 after all) BOTH GT6 dip and main beam are unfused, no just dipped. It's the main beam flasher stalk that has a fuse. Why did they fuse the flasher and not the switch?!! I think the TR7 50amp fuse could be easily broken out into sub fuses. I can recommend the £7 Chinese conversion headlamp loom, I've done it and my brother's just fitted one. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/H4-Headlight-Headlamp-Light-Bulb-Relay-Wiring-Harness-Socket-Plug-Wire-Kit/192284936495?_trkparms=aid%3D555017%26algo%3DPL.CASSINI%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20160706105120%26meid%3Da709e7b6f3b24ac4a2df5a8a9d3a16a5%26pid%3D100508%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D1%26%26itm%3D192284936495&_trksid=p2045573.c100508.m3226 Doug Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NonMember Posted November 29, 2018 Report Share Posted November 29, 2018 Some of the electrical decisions on pre-1970 Triumphs seem to have been based on the assumption that fuses are likely to blow when they shouldn't. Or perhaps they'd noticed how dismal the Lucas fuse boxes were and worried that the fuses might fail to make contact. If your headlamp flasher fails because the fuse is loose, then it's no great shakes. If the green circuit fails because that fuse is loose (as happened on my Vitesse not so long back) you lose indicators, brake lights, overdrive and gauges - a significant nuisance but all copable with. If your headlights disappeared while driving enthusiatically round a country lane at night... The TR7 has separate fuses for each filament of the headlights. If one of them fails, at least you can still see where you're going by the other light. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted November 29, 2018 Report Share Posted November 29, 2018 Doug Im sure if youre flashing ................you need to be fused............. for our safety Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougbgt6 Posted November 29, 2018 Report Share Posted November 29, 2018 Pete, I'm all fused up with a 10 blade box, it's got LEDs and everything. I'm so pleased with it I'm thinking of remounting it on the dash so I can monitor it like one of the gauges. I'm more concerned that, with a 50amp fuse, Colin could do some really spectacular flashing. Doug Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave.vitesse Posted November 29, 2018 Report Share Posted November 29, 2018 Car electricians were taught that fuses in both the headlights and ignition were too much of a risk. Fuses were fragile and it wasn't uncommon for the wire to fracture due to vibration. Multi-fusing was concerned to expensive and over complicated. Though I could never understand the lack of fuses in an up market car like the Herald. Things started to change in the 1970's and the TR7 went the other way. Loads of fuses and relays. Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave.vitesse Posted November 29, 2018 Report Share Posted November 29, 2018 24 minutes ago, dougbgt6 said: Pete, I'm all fused up with a 10 blade box, it's got LEDs and everything. I'm so pleased with it I'm thinking of remounting it on the dash so I can monitor it like one of the gauges. Doug Doug, Sounds a bit flash to me. Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougbgt6 Posted November 29, 2018 Report Share Posted November 29, 2018 Dave, Absolutely no flashing, my installation is exemplary. Well, a few sparks, now and again. Doug 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
poppyman Posted November 29, 2018 Report Share Posted November 29, 2018 Just as well,..... you could get arrested....... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted November 29, 2018 Author Report Share Posted November 29, 2018 4 hours ago, dougbgt6 said: I'm more concerned that, with a 50amp fuse, Colin could do some really spectacular flashing. Doug Is it large enough to cover all my... eventualities? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougbgt6 Posted November 29, 2018 Report Share Posted November 29, 2018 Don't know Colin, got any pictures? Pete can put them on the "other" site. db Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted December 5, 2018 Author Report Share Posted December 5, 2018 Need a bigger lens... or a macro function, this weather. Anyway: I got bored hanging about upside down in the interior so went back to the engine bay for a marathon session. Nothing on TV on Monday night! All hoses now replaced and shiny new hose clips; distributor refitted with Accuspark electronic ignition, inlet manifold refitted, new gasket and O-ring sealed in place with Loctite MR5922 sealant, bypass tube replaced with new O-rings (I remembered it!), and the thermostat housing helicoiled and refitted. Next step: carbs.Then I'll go back to the electrics after a short break, feeling refreshed and ready to go. I hope. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anglefire Posted December 5, 2018 Report Share Posted December 5, 2018 1 hour ago, Colin Lindsay said: Need a bigger lens. I've just bought a bigger lens funnily enough. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave.vitesse Posted December 5, 2018 Report Share Posted December 5, 2018 It's looking good Colin. Excellent job. Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted December 11, 2018 Author Report Share Posted December 11, 2018 Thanks Dave! I think it's all going back as it should... anyway I've replaced the carbs and all the fuel lines are now R9 so should be ethanol resistant, however I've one or two small queries. The first and most important one concerns the fuel pipes I've connected to the carbs; there are two pipes side by side on each and I'm thinking the fuel lines go to the upper as shown and the overflow (green plastic pipes) go to the lower. I've a 50/50 chance of being right... Between the carbs there was the remains of a small rubber bush, which I suspect is used to clamp the fuel line as a kind of steady. Mine is in two bits; one attached to the air filter housing and the other to this small bracket. I can't find one listed anywhere; I presume they're NLA? Any good modern replacement? The only bits I've had left over so far from the reassembly are the old hoses and clips, and plenty of duff locking washers, so I must be doing something right. Look out Mr Reassembler James May, you've got a rival. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted December 11, 2018 Report Share Posted December 11, 2018 Colin, At risk of the obvious, fuel line goes to the feed to the needle valve the green is a tubed float chamber vent so yes think you have it correct your metalastic bush , was also used on many moderns to support hold the engine cover on top of the cam box etc.so a modern may find a supply, nothing on fleabay it obviously supports something which needs decoupling from vibrations but a solid fix wont kill you. Pete. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
poppyman Posted December 11, 2018 Report Share Posted December 11, 2018 Those bobbins look very similar to the ones used on Audi's. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Febi-Rubber-Mounting-Engine-Cover-23304-GENUINE-5-YEAR-WARRANTY/173504446517?epid=1413269134&hash=item2865abc035:g:0qkAAOSwLB9bVh2L:rk:19:pf:0 Tony. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Posted December 12, 2018 Report Share Posted December 12, 2018 May be tricky getting imperial thread bobbins (unless you go to 5/15 thread, then Mini exhaust mounts, but will be huge) but choose nearest metricsize and chuck it in fleabay. Guessing 1/4" threads, so M6 rubber bobbin will turn up loads.... (or M5 if smaller) On my car I haven't used the rubber, but only have the carb side of the airbox (a panel K+N is fitted, very open as I struggled to get the outer half of the airbox on!) However, using the whole airbox you will need something there to take the strain off the rubber carb mounts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NonMember Posted December 12, 2018 Report Share Posted December 12, 2018 I'm fairly sure the rubber bobbin is supposed to support the air filter box, taking some of the load off the rubber mounts for the carbs (based on recollection of my 1850 Dolomite as the TR7 had a Sprint conversion but I think they're all pretty similar). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted December 12, 2018 Author Report Share Posted December 12, 2018 Thanks guys! Pete: I think, as Non-member says, it supports the air filter box with an additional clamp for the fuel line. A very small gearbox mount might do the trick.... but as you say a solid mounting won't really kill it given the sort of mileage it will probably do nowadays. I could rig something up on the lathe, I have a few solid plugs of modern material that would dampen vibrations but last longer than rubber; it's only a question of finding an adhesive that will hold the bolts in place and not shear at the first startup. I think, Clive, I'll hit the local motorfactor, they're used to me rummaging through old boxes for bits that should have been thrown out years ago, but Tony's link looks close, if I had some way of gauging the size. Going by that link I found another suggestion, which looks quite close too. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Febi-Rocket-Cover-Mounting-Buffer-Engine-12173-GENUINE-5-YEAR-WARRANTY/153159510801?_trkparms=aid%3D555018%26algo%3DPL.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20140122125356%26meid%3Df3167fbb9206480da661a088693637fa%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D4%26rkt%3D12%26sd%3D173504446517%26itm%3D153159510801&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Posted December 12, 2018 Report Share Posted December 12, 2018 Or... how about drilling one of the metal lugs out a tad, and use a well nut... (they are dead clever little blighters, used on motorbikes a lot.) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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