dave.vitesse Posted September 1, 2018 Report Share Posted September 1, 2018 Forgot, There was no bleeding screw on the later versions. Around 1979 on. Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave.vitesse Posted September 1, 2018 Report Share Posted September 1, 2018 Until last year I had a couple of TR7's. One was a project car, now reliable and past on to a local club members. This car had lots of electrical problems. Most were due to corrosion in the very many plugs and sockets. Much by-passing had taken place instead of rectifying the original fault which went on to cause even more problems. One problem I had was when the headlights were operated, as they came up or down, there was a very load grinding noise. All the mechanical bits were well greased and in good order, so what was the problem? The fact that only one horn was working was the reason I found the problem. When looking at the connections to the non-working horn I found the earth return to one of the headlight motors had been connected through the horn to earth! Hence the very loud grinding noise when the headlights were raised or lowered! Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted September 2, 2018 Author Report Share Posted September 2, 2018 Thanks Dave -the wiring is indeed complicated and made more so by the previous owners; the wiring visible down in the engine bay, just before it disappears inside behind each headlight seems to have a lot of aftermarket connectors; the radio has three in-line fuses and I have more than one cable hanging uselessly under the dash. What's the plastic 'box' with the black tape over it, just visible above the hazard warning switch? Robsport and James Paddock are earning their keep this week... both good for varied selections of bits. One more small question for now: is there a steering lock on these cars? I can't get the ignition key out of the ignition no matter how I turn the wheel... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Posted September 2, 2018 Report Share Posted September 2, 2018 I like Robsport ? Re key, it sort of needs pushing in to get it out as you are twisting. But I reckon you have tried that (shares lock, column etc with late spit 1500) and yes, there is a steering lock. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted September 2, 2018 Author Report Share Posted September 2, 2018 So you have to push it in and at the same time pull it out? Okay.... ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hugh Posted September 2, 2018 Report Share Posted September 2, 2018 Just wait til you have to play with the headlight raiser's and the electronic control, drives many insane and suicidal 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave.vitesse Posted September 2, 2018 Report Share Posted September 2, 2018 Concur with Clive. Push it in and then turn it to off. Once it's at the off position then pull it out quickly. Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NonMember Posted September 2, 2018 Report Share Posted September 2, 2018 6 hours ago, Colin Lindsay said: So you have to push it in and at the same time pull it out? Okay.... ? Err... yes ? As I recall, from when I had a TR7, it's a case of needing to push the key in before you can properly turn it from accessory-only to fully off and removable. If you don't it still turns off but doesn't go all the way, so you can't remove the key and activate the steering lock. It's a safety feature - makes it much less likely you'll "accidentally" turn it off and remove the key and lock the steering while the car's still moving. 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anglefire Posted September 2, 2018 Report Share Posted September 2, 2018 My spitfire 1500 is the same (as has been said). Its quite awkward at times - mostly when I’m out of the car tinkering. ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
poppyman Posted September 2, 2018 Report Share Posted September 2, 2018 So is my Dolly, can be a pain at times. Tony. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted September 4, 2018 Author Report Share Posted September 4, 2018 Got it sorted - you have to turn it back a bit, then press in, then turn it fully off and it comes out so easily. Once you know how of course! Now I can take it and get a spare cut. I got the engine running - seems to have been running rich, but the old air filter was black anyway and missing the rubber seal - and flushed the coolant, not an easy job as I'm not happy with the current filler system.With the expansion tank sitting full and overflowing, the hoses were still empty, so I took off the top hose and held it straight up, and filled it to the top before refitting it; however after it had warmed up slightly, and cooled down again, I still put quite a bit of water into the system. I think I'd prefer the earlier thermostat housing with the bleed screw. It's also very easy to squeeze both hoses when running. Best news is that I've got the heater blower working, albeit on one setting only (3). 1 and 2 are no go and 3 only works if I bend the assembly slightly. Are these available new, or has anyone removed one before, by drilling out the two rivets, to clean it properly? The connection seems to be made by a spring-loaded sliding metal connector striking the inside of the contact block. In the closeup below you can see the metallic strip holding it in place. I haven't yet got my head around the TR wiring but am assuming that it's not making contact at the upper two connection points, adjacent to the connectors, but only the bottom one? Or do these go straight to the resistor unit which is faulty? I suppose I could always check by swapping the connectors about... I've sprayed about a pint of Servisol contact cleaner on these to see if it makes any difference. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted September 11, 2018 Author Report Share Posted September 11, 2018 How I wish mine was that clean! I've cleaned and lubricated the sliding switch for the blower; it works erratically on position 3 only so I simply moved the connectors about and found that it works great on positions 1 and 2, but only at one speed on the same cable; thankfully the most powerful. This tells me two things: firstly the contacts at position 3 are wonky ( see how the lowest contact rivet protrudes out more than the other two?), and secondly the resistor appears to have failed. I can't even see the resistor; I believe it's on top of the heater but towards the front of the car? The dashboard now lights on both sides, so that's one less problem. Jobs to be done are now: front suspension rebuild, brake pipe replacement (one copper one is mangled, obviously made up by a PO), headlamp upgrade, coolant hose and thermostat replacement; I'm not happy with the two bolts holding the housing on as they won't tighten sufficiently to stop water coming out past the gasket. One is 1", one is 1.5" - which way round do they go? The underdash wiring also needs sorted; too many Scotchlocks for peace of mind... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted September 13, 2018 Author Report Share Posted September 13, 2018 I've now started on the wipers since the thermostat housing requires redrilling and helicoiled; I've discovered why the two setscrews were so hard to remove - they were araldited in place. The coolant was plain water and the hoses were quite thin so all has been replaced. The wipers are gone - that's the best phrase for them; new wheelboxes ordered. At least they're easy to get at since they're under the top valence panel below the windscreen and not behind the dash as I had feared. I've removed the black trim panel and thankfully there's no serious rot underneath. The trim panel has been blasted, repaired and is now in primer. Satin black will be a nice colour, I think... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted September 18, 2018 Author Report Share Posted September 18, 2018 Against my better judgement - I was on a late run last night so about four hours sleep - I've taken the inlet manifold off completely. I just hope I can get it on again... but it will make drilling and retapping the thermostat housing so much easier. At least I've uncovered the distributor, which is only held on by two bolts so I should be able to replace points and condensor easily enough. I'm not impressed by this huge smear of sealer along the edge of the head and beside the water pump... wonder what it's hiding? What is the layout of things - seams, seals, gaskets - under this? There's also a line of what looks like sealant along the edge of the head above the distributor. Hope it's not a sign of a blown head gasket... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Posted September 18, 2018 Report Share Posted September 18, 2018 Possibly what I have just dealt with. The lack of antifreeze means the head gets corroded and that pushes the gasket around a bit. Mine had an intermittent weep/dribble, but with teh RBRR looming rather immanently, I decided I would pull the head. Luckily I could borrow a bespoke head puller, otherwise the studs may well have been difficult. I would leave it. A good dose of antifreeze, chuck some bars leak in for good measure and fingers crossed all will be OK. The engines actually seem robust enough, just the poor head attachment design. Hint, when refitting the inlet, I stongly recommend some sealer around the bypass tube o-rings (the bloke opposite built stag engines back in the 70's advised me of that) and do put the bypass tube in the water pump rather than the inlet when refitting. Saves having it drop out, but you only discover that when you refill with water... I have recently got a new t shirt. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted September 18, 2018 Author Report Share Posted September 18, 2018 You mean the short tube with the two O-rings? You may not believe me, but it was stuck through the large rubber ring that fitted into the hole beside the inlet ports (the one surrounded in white sealant in the photo), NOT into the water pump housing... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Posted September 18, 2018 Report Share Posted September 18, 2018 I do believe you! so how is the water pump housing connected to the inlet manifold? a second bypass tube? I guess you are realising there are plenty of potential places for water leaks to occur! A bit of sealant around that larger single O ring isn't a bad idea either. White silicone? looks rather bath like to me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted September 18, 2018 Author Report Share Posted September 18, 2018 No bypass tube at all, just one set on top of the other with lots of sealer. Most came off with the manifold leaving little cleaning to do. I can't find any of my razor-blade scrapers to tidy things up and remove old gaskets; I was in four hardware or £1 stores today and not one had any. Are they banned these days? Gaskets and o-rings ordered this evening; I also need a full set of carb nuts and spring washers, and a full set of manifold setscrews and spring washers too... but can't work out the item numbers from any catalogue or website. Too tired tonight so that's a job for tomorrow. Still, things are more accessible now with all the carbs etc removed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Posted September 18, 2018 Report Share Posted September 18, 2018 so what was joining the vertical outlet of the water pump to the inlet manifold? That is where the bypass tube fits, otherwise water will just pour out. Rimmers diagrams are most helpful, but I tend to buy from Robsport. I think you have discovered them, very good supplier and no faffing about. Good pricing, and some OE stuff too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted September 19, 2018 Author Report Share Posted September 19, 2018 9 hours ago, clive said: That is where the bypass tube fits, otherwise water will just pour out. LOL.... as Shakespeare would say: aye, there's the rub! You can see the water stains all over the block, plus this may be the reason for all the sealant. I think - relatively early morning with three coffees in me - that the head is going to have to come off. Unless someone (yourself, Clive???) can convince me that I can have peace of mind without doing it. There's an excellent video on Youtube covering head removal, which has completely scared me off removing or otherwise disturbing it, but I just know that if I build everything up again, on the first long run there are going to be problems, and so back into the garage it will go to redo everything I have done, and do what I should have done in the first place. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Posted September 19, 2018 Report Share Posted September 19, 2018 I have heard plenty of horror stories wit the studs. I "think" mine may have come out with a decent stud extractor, but plenty seem to snap off in the head. If you persist with head removal, I can give you a list of tips that I was given (from people who have done it and encountered issues) I still want to know how the water pump housing was connected inlet manifold. When I say pour out, I mean that, not a leak or weep, it is open to the cooling system. So must have had a tube in there too. Anyway, if you fancy trying the car without removing the head, I would have a go.Besides, head removal is helped by having teh engine very hot (tip for Tony Hart, stag chap. And Nick Jones.Get the engine hot as a hot thing, and then get the 5 studs moving before doing anything else. They don't have top move much, so no leaks etc but easier when very hot. Any you may find that with the addition of a bit of radweld, the leaks may be OK. I know it sounds a bodge, but in retrospect I half wish I had left mine, now having seen what the issue was. Be aware if you remove the head, it is likely that it will need replacing, or corrosion damage welding up and skimming (actually not too bad, a place local to me in the expensive SE charge £80 to repair up to 4 bits and skim. Could be worse.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted September 21, 2018 Author Report Share Posted September 21, 2018 WHAT'S THIS BIT? I was degreasing the engine block and in the middle of hosing it clean, out jumps this little metal bit from around the servo area. What on earth is it? Got it sorted, it's a spacer for the wiper wheelboxes. There's one on the other side too but rusted solidly to the wheelbox so it looked like an integral part. New wheelboxes going in once all else is sorted. I've rebuilt the carbs and the float chambers (which had no gaskets; PO told me he opened them and looked in, but did nothing else), repainted the scuttle panel, degreased the entire engine bay of around two tons of old grease and dirt, and ordered electronic ignition for the distributor. Once that arrives and is fitted, I'm on the rebuild. I just need to remember where everything went before it was removed... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave.vitesse Posted September 23, 2018 Report Share Posted September 23, 2018 I agree with Clive re the using a sealant around the bypass tube and manifold O rings. Silicon can be washed away by the hot coolant which is under pressure, been there! The Loctite MR5922 Flange Sealant works well. This may sound a bodge but getting the O rings to seal, even after getting the surfaces right, has always been a problem on these engines. Of course it get worse after the surfaces have aged. Fit the bypass tube after the manifold is in place. Not to sure why no bypass tube was present. I wonder if they sealed together the manifold and water pump pipes. One area I would check is if the water pump is leaking. Check the vent slot below the water pump for moister. If the head/gasket is OK then leave well alone. Sound like Clive and I have the same T shirt! Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted September 23, 2018 Author Report Share Posted September 23, 2018 There wasn't a tube, just a column of broad flat rubber washers all held together with sealer and squeezed into the gap.... this may explain the half empty radiator and the pure water with no antifreeze, no doubt from multiple topups, although the temp gauge was at the normal position when the car arrived and any time that I ran it to warm it up during my ownership, and I could find no drips or other leaks as it ran. I've replaced all the hoses and will use sealant around the o-ring, but am wondering how you fit the bypass tube AFTER the manifold is in place... I presumed the manifold dropped down onto it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Posted September 23, 2018 Report Share Posted September 23, 2018 To gloat, the new headgasket is doing well in mine. Now done 435 miles, will retorque next week, all ready for the 2000+ miles it will be doing on the RBRR. What has impressed me is that it is doing 35MPG on the 280 trip yesterday. Yes, all motorway but cruising at 50mph where the "smart motorway" stuff is happenning (seems a loooong way) and a few slower sections and the odd queue, but when free flowing a steady (indicated) 70mph. But the speedo is out, you need to add 20%! And I reckon a few more degrees of advance, and a carb tweek, may improve that further. Oh, and no loss of any fluids at all. Re water pump, mine leaked. I chose to rebuild it as so much cheaper, and the supplied kit was OE to a perkins diesel or suchlike. It included a "polo" of ceramic, and the instructions said either don't bother and let the new seal run on the old impellor (best to skim) OR machine a few mm (it gave the figure) and stick the polo to the impeller with silicone (I used JB weld) giving a super smooth, corrosion free face for the seal. Seems a good idea. Kit came from LD parts (stag specialist) who is again a very good supplier. A bit of drift, but hopefully some useful insights. I too wonder about teh bypass tube fitting. I would say drop it into the WP housing, then fit the manifold. A third hand is useful. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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