Black Cat Posted September 10, 2018 Report Share Posted September 10, 2018 Looks like I may need to replace my original gearbox tunnel. I see that you can get either plastic or fibreglass ones. What is the difference, apart from price and what is generally recommended? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougbgt6 Posted September 10, 2018 Report Share Posted September 10, 2018 I bought a polyurethane one from the club shop. It has an additional lip on the base and front, for rigidity I presume. The rubber strip in the mounting kit was too shallow to give a seal because of the lip. I had to put in a second rubber seal which made it difficult to fit to the existing mounting holes, a lot of pushing and shoving. Others have cut the lip down, but what does that do to stability? Easy to fit sound/heat deadening material inside the tunnel. To be honest I preferred the look of the poly tunnel compared to the fibreglass, but both MUCH better than the original cardboard job! Doug Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NonMember Posted September 10, 2018 Report Share Posted September 10, 2018 I don't know about the currently available ones but the fibreglass tunnels on my Vitesse and GT6, both quite a few years old, are a terrible fit and not flexible enough to cope with that. The one on the Spitfire, which is equally ancient, seems a lot better. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Black Cat Posted September 10, 2018 Author Report Share Posted September 10, 2018 So it looks like it will be the poly tunnel then. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Unkel Kunkel Posted September 10, 2018 Report Share Posted September 10, 2018 Black Cat, the general view seems to be that the fibreglass version is hard and inflexible which makes it less easy to fit than the injection moulded plastic ones. I did try to resurrect a battered old cardboard tunnel by using fibreglass resin to mend the damaged bits and coat it.The resin soaked in easily and it was certainly very strong, but so rigid it was awkward to fit and resulted in a very gappy fit therefore I chucked it. I bought a plastic one and it is very good - vastly superior to the original card board jobs which get weaker each time they are disturbed -that and the polythene bag of fibreglass insulation having either disappeared or hanging off its staples saturated in ancient EP 90. The seal can still be an area of weakness, however .Some have made a new seal by buying one of those camping rolls from Millets and cuting a gasket seal from it - and those frustrating spire clips... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted September 11, 2018 Report Share Posted September 11, 2018 For a seal In the past ive cut a 25mm square section off a foam slab from dunelm and its big enough to fill any imperfections and soft enough to easily compress, As for the fixings redrill and used an hex headed washer face drive acme bolts (a course selt tapper ) whizz them in/out with battery drill and socket Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD Posted September 11, 2018 Report Share Posted September 11, 2018 I use lengths of foam strip with an adhesive face, like this: https://expandingfoamtape.co.uk/gap-size-4-9mm/expanding-foam-tape-br-10-4-9-x-8m?gclid=Cj0KCQjwz93cBRCrARIsAEFbWsiNaTsUlI3PybAet4P_2jpOxDd0j2nbMNoNCK4xKpwkhQCo0M8NgB8aAuTnEALw_wcB&zenid=7daf7bc3c604b248e3c79bea4dae71d8 Just an example to show what I mean. I buy mine at a local company specialising in rubber goods(!). The adhesive does not last for ever in the hot and oily atmosphere under a Triumph. I will take the cover off several times in a year, when others want 'fit-and-forget', but I don't think this is a problem. The glue gets squishy, ad I may replace it sometimes, but it never allows the foam to fall out so if you're not moving the cover, it will stay there. JOhn 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Black Cat Posted September 11, 2018 Author Report Share Posted September 11, 2018 Thanks gents for your advice. Does the club shop sell the polythene insulation bag as well and is it necessary? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daverclasper Posted September 11, 2018 Report Share Posted September 11, 2018 (edited) I think some folk use plastic rubble sack etc and cut it to size and staple together. That's what I did, with rock wool I had lying about to replace the ragged existing stuff. Also if your not a perfectionist, strong wide (black for ascetics) tape gives an ok/flexible repair. Mines been on 18 months and still ok with the tunnel removed a few (too many) times. Edited September 11, 2018 by daverclasper Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Unkel Kunkel Posted September 11, 2018 Report Share Posted September 11, 2018 Some folk have resurrected their polythene and mineral wool insulation and many will have opted for covering at least the inner aspect of the tunnel with one of those adhesive backed insulation and foil type materials (eg Rimmers catalogue Ref No.1473 which is the stuff in the picture ) .This is really good tough material than needs cutting with tin snips - not to be confused with that stuff you get in B&Q to put behind radiators. Also -It’s worth looking at Frosts and also in “Car Builders Solutions” -they do lots of it - and pretty much everything else imaginable for cars.Their catalogue is amazing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted September 11, 2018 Report Share Posted September 11, 2018 Personally, I just enjoy the heat. And THAT'S in a GT6. My Herald has no insulation at all, and the GT6 has the original stuff in the oily polythene bags. Too warm, I open the window; too noisy, I turn up the CD. I don't think I'll ever get any insulation totally heatproof or silent. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daverclasper Posted September 11, 2018 Report Share Posted September 11, 2018 Yeah, My Vitesse like that. Pretty hot this summer, at times, though toasty in winter (don't have to use the heater) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougbgt6 Posted September 11, 2018 Report Share Posted September 11, 2018 I used Silent Coat, got it on Fleabay. The sheets are dense and remarkably heavy which I suppose is why works. Heat and sound much reduced, this evening coming back from East Berks area meeting, turned on the heater! First time for years. Doug Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Cooper Posted September 11, 2018 Report Share Posted September 11, 2018 Black Cat Have you considered cutting an access hatch in your new cover to allow you to check and top up the gearbox oil? This saves having to remove the tunnel cover for this routine job and is a very worthwhile modification in my opinion. Adrian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougbgt6 Posted September 12, 2018 Report Share Posted September 12, 2018 BC, Ditto to that. I got a thing from B & Q for drilling recessed lighting holes in ceilings, I used that. The hole's about 2" diameter and fitted with a giant grommet/bung off Fleabay. It need accurate measurement, you only get one chance! Well, two, I practised on the old cardboard cowl. Doug Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted September 12, 2018 Report Share Posted September 12, 2018 You can add hole for speedo cable hole for clutch slave hole for oil levels And theres still some tunnel left over Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted December 20, 2018 Report Share Posted December 20, 2018 On 11/09/2018 at 10:17, JohnD said: I use lengths of foam strip with an adhesive face, like this: https://expandingfoamtape.co.uk/gap-size-4-9mm/expanding-foam-tape-br-10-4-9-x-8m?gclid=Cj0KCQjwz93cBRCrARIsAEFbWsiNaTsUlI3PybAet4P_2jpOxDd0j2nbMNoNCK4xKpwkhQCo0M8NgB8aAuTnEALw_wcB&zenid=7daf7bc3c604b248e3c79bea4dae71d8 Hello, Just revamped my transmission tunnel and have been looking for a suitable strip between that and the body - I know the club shop sells the foam strip independently of the fitting kit. Spoke with Mark at the company John flagged, very helpful indeed. Of interest the link John has flagged is of open cell construction which means that an element of fume is likely to enter the car and deterioration of the product is greater due to the heat. However that said, the company stocks neoprene rolls, also self adhesive on one side but is of closed cell construction which means it performs as you would expect a gasket to do with no ingress and is far more resilient to deterioration. As such I have ordered some and will let you know how I get on with it. Regards. Richard. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougbgt6 Posted December 20, 2018 Report Share Posted December 20, 2018 3 hours ago, classiclife said: open cell construction which means that an element of fume is likely to enter the car The club shop foam in the fitting kit was too shallow for my new club shop tunnel. I have pointed this out to Bern and I hope he's done something about it. To compensate I used an additional layer of draught excluder tape. This was open cell but I would suggest that once the screw/bolts go in the thing is crushed into submission and nothing gets through. Doug Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD Posted December 20, 2018 Report Share Posted December 20, 2018 4 hours ago, classiclife said: Of interest the link John has flagged is of open cell construction which means that an element of fume is likely to enter the car and deterioration of the product is greater due to the heat. Richard. Excellent point, Richard! I would be less concerned about fumes and more about oil soaking into the open cell foam (although no Triumph EVER leaks oil, does it?). This is a problem for me, in that the oil gets to the adhesive and loosens it, so I need to change the foam strip almost every time I take off the cover, which must be more frequently than most. Please let us know how you get on with the closed cell, neoprene (oil-resistant) foam? John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougbgt6 Posted December 20, 2018 Report Share Posted December 20, 2018 2 hours ago, JohnD said: Excellent point, Richard! Oh no it isn't! (Pause for "Oh yes it is!" and "behind you!") With the additional tape, for the bulk head and base holes to line up with the tunnel, the bolts will have to be screwed down TIGHT. The additional tape will be crushed and nothing will get through. I know this because I've done it and, I've got no fumes. As to oil, that's got to be some leak you've got John! Unusually my gearbox doesn't leak at all. I cut a hole in my tunnel to get at the top up hole, having done it I thought I'd better top up. I couldn't get any more in, previous top up attempt was 3 years ago with much the same result. Doug Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted December 20, 2018 Report Share Posted December 20, 2018 Hello Doug, Out of interest and if you can recall, what is the dimension of the club shop tape - width and depth ?? Secondly, does your g/box have the traditional screwed plug or did you change it for a bolt head ?? I ask the later as I've installed a side access and with a bolt head, logically that will be easier to undo / tighten than the other type. -------- With regard to open cell / close cell construction - the point I was flagging is that the company produces / sells neoprene which by its very design has to be better than foam. I agree fully that if you tighten anything sufficiently you will achieve a tight seal, so I understand your rationale. Just looking at options, as the sealing of the transmission tunnel (for most) is a pain. Regards. Richard. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted December 20, 2018 Report Share Posted December 20, 2018 Think you will find all suppliers use the same section self adhesive seal with a few ribs in And generally with wonky floors wonky baulkheads wonky tunnels it has no chance of making a airtight seal Hence all the hot leg drivers in most of the range So im in a sauages to the unlikely oil penetration ....keep the hot water air out gets my vote Use something thick and accomodating Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougbgt6 Posted December 20, 2018 Report Share Posted December 20, 2018 Richard, Roughly, the tape was 1/2" wide and 1/3" deep? The problem is the tunnel, it has a downward lip on the bottom and front. The lip is not part of the original design and I think is there to give rigidity to the structure. I have seen other tunnels, at HQ, where the lip is not so deep and the fitting kit tape would make a seal, although I have doubts it would be very good (See Pete's comments above). I would recommend additional tape even if the lip is shallow enough. On the up side the advantage of the lip is it puts the tape in exactly the right place. So I agree, the tunnel is a pain! I would recommend extra tape and brute force! As to the top up plug, I have the original square headed bolt. I have a metric socket which is a good fit over the bolt, can't tell you what it is off the top of my head. But hey! I've got all these unused metric sockets might as well use them. My access hole is small, 2" round so has to be in EXACTLY the right place, (measure once, twice, thrice) Doug Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD Posted December 21, 2018 Report Share Posted December 21, 2018 How do you secure a cover on such a small hole, Doug? Or do you use a large grommet? My hole is bigger, allows you to drill a hole, check for position and then cut a larger one, centralised. The cover is a small alloy panel, with thin foam around the edges, secured by S/t screws into Spire clips in the edges of the hole. See pic. The other panel makes room for the Hi-Torque starter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted December 21, 2018 Report Share Posted December 21, 2018 Hi John what was your starter off, ive never had anything C hsg side to impede fitting a HT unit its all engine side ofnthe mtg plate ??? Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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