Stone chip Paint

[daverclasper]

Hi. Anyone know if this available (or an alternative) to brush on please.

Thanks, Dave

Edited March 9, 2019 by daverclasper

[Clive]

You can brush stone hip if you wish. Be aware it usually settles out pretty badly and takes some effort to re-mix. 

 

[Colin Lindsay]

Do you mean as an alternative to normal primer? I use both; primer plus stonechip on leading edges that are likely to take the full force of road debris, but it's probably okay to use on it's own as a basecoat - having said that, it's always aerosol I use, so no experience of brushing it on other than to say, the better the brush and the better the technique, the better the finish will be. You can always thin it down a bit if it's too thick.

[daverclasper]

Hi, and thanks.

So far have only looked on E bay and only found aerosol/canister for compressor air gun, will look if specialists have it to brush on.

Out of interest, it's not like some underseals, that can dry out and start lifting?.

Cheers, Dave   

[Clive]

I don't think you will find a brush-on version. But the cannisters for compressor/gun will be fine. It is already thinned for spraying (or more splattering) so should be ready to brush. 

I tend to use gravitex. Not had it lift. But then again underseal was/is often applied into poorly prepped surfaces. Use a decent primer on bare metal and it should be fine.

It does need topcoat. And for areas such as wheelarches I have used dinitrol hard wax protection. A good few thousand miles (10-15k) and 5 years it is still there with no sign of it being damaged. Brilliant stuff.

[daverclasper]

Thanks. Clive, does it need top coat for durability, or just to get colour?.

Also, does it need to go on thicker that body paint, or is it tough enough anyway please. just using it on lower half of bulkhead, where it gets spray off wheels. 

Cheers, Dave  

Edited April 18, 2019 by daverclasper

[Clive]

I have a feeling it may be porous, so a topcoat will seal it.

Yes, it needs to go on thicker than body paint. But it can be applied, and once dry be flatted it required. topcoat it after to give a pretty finish. If you just want a durable coating, I have used Dinitrol hard wax in my wheel arches. Black, looks like underseal but is a wax and VERY durable. Can be cleaned off with solvent if required.

[Guest]

Hello Dave,

There is an alternative and that is POR15 - it is not UV stable so a top coat will be required if exposed to sunlight.

What I will say (having used it) is that it's an excellent product and in addition it is flexible; not withstanding that it forms a nigh-on bullet proof coating which is ideal for all underside applications.

You can paint the product and it forms a smooth surface.

Not the cheapest product, but worth every penny IMHO. I got my kit via Demon Tweeks who were the cheapest at that time.

Regards.

Richard.

[Adrian]

Agree with Richard, have used it on the underside of both the GT6 and the mini.  Pity it needs topcoating as is a really good smooth finish. Word to the wise, prep it fully according to instructions. Also I’d advise using the tie coat primer to fully bond the topcoat.

i actually used tetrosyl stonechip as well on the underside and wheel arches as belt and bracers and finally finished off with dinytrol clear wax.

Adrian

[PeterH]

I used stone chip aerosol on the sills and sprayed top coat straight on top. I either didn't allow the stone chip to fully cure, or because I didn't prime after, but the top coat has cracked, not crazed but quite noticable cracks. Its on the list of jobs to sort out.

[dave.vitesse]

I have am problems getting it the stick long term on two pack paint. As with Peter H it cracked and flaked off after a couple of years.

Dave

[Dick Twitchen]

Like Clive I used Gravitex and a wax on top in the wheel arches on my GT6 during restoration and it has lasted well these past 10 years.   All the underside and front bulkhead (and the interior but don't tell anybody) were done and apart from serious gravel chips to/from  five Le Mans Classic all is well, touching up with Hammerite Stonechip aerosol is easy and a decent match.  I also did the outside of the sills and the key is to allow lots of time for it to dry before top coating, and a gentle rub will remove any particularly high/sharp looking spots.  

Dick

[daverclasper]

Hi. It's odd, that Stone chip  may absorb water and therefore need top coating, as presumably the top coat won't last long and need re painting.

Which is sort of an oxymoron?

Dave 

[Badwolf]

Re POR 15. There are mixed reviews around the forum but most are positive. Although POR (acronym for paint over/on rust) is good it is advisable to get rid of/treat any rust before starting. Also follow the instructions regarding cleaning/degreasing and prepping. I went into their sales counter and was shown an old motor bike cut away petrol tank which had been treated on the inside with their tank sealing product and on the outside with POR15. The young lady then attacked the outside with a large spanner denting the metal (which already had many dents) to show how strong and flexible the paint was. I believe that it is difficult to overpaint POR15 after the original coat has cured, and I have heard of cases where a second coat has pealed away due to not abrading the original coat sufficiently. Hope this helps in someway,

[Paul H]

Im a big fan of POR15 products - Ive treated the fuel tank with their tank kit and so far its fine , though as a safety function added an inline filter after the tank . and todate its been clear .
Full prep instructions followed . Ive brush painted all the ancillaries that have been upgraded / renewed- pic is  water pump & housing. 2 years on and still good  

The only mistake ive made is put the lid back on without adding cling film - the lid wont repeat wont come off unless you destroy the lid . 

Paul 

[daverclasper]

Thanks folks. Is that to put the cling film over the top of can before lid, to seal it from the inside please?.

Dave

Edited April 19, 2019 by daverclasper

[Paul H]

4 minutes ago, daverclasper said:

Thanks folks. Is that to put the cling film over the top of can before lid, to seal it from the inside please?.

Dave

Add cling film over the top , then add lid 

Paul 

[Badwolf]

Yes. Cling film over the hole then add the lid, seal tight. Also a good move with any type of paint.

Also do NOT return POR15 back to the can. This product doesn't dry, it cures like silicone by absorbing moisture (would you believe!) and returning paint which has been exposed to the atmosphere for any length of time will set the paint in the can rock solid,

[Clive]

4 hours ago, daverclasper said:

Hi. It's odd, that Stone chip  may absorb water and therefore need top coating, as presumably the top coat won't last long and need re painting.

Which is sort of an oxymoron?

Dave 

I don't understand why you are saying the stonechip being (probably) slightly porous, like most primers, means the topcoat will not last?

When I took my vitesse apart, after 15years, the stonechip on the underside was fine, as was the topcoats. 

There is a tougher option, but more expensive. I half wish I had used it on my spit. Try "Truck Bed Liner", it can be tinted to any colour and is VERY tough stuff.Upol Raptor is one such product.

[daverclasper]

Hi Clive. Sorry if that wasn't clear. Hope this makes more sense.

I mean't the top coat won't last, due to grit/stones, flung at it from the wheels (on the bulkhead/wheel arches etc), therefore if it is needed to avoid porosity, will have to be repainted?.

I Can't afford the hard wax at present, so hoping the stone chip (over primer), was more "fit and forget sort of thing".

Dave 

Edited April 19, 2019 by daverclasper

[Guest]

Hello,

One needs to be clear when using POR15.

Firstly, you need to follow their instructions to the letter and that is why it is more cost effective to but the kit. This comprises of cleaner, rust treatment and then the actual application. This is exactly the same course if you are sealing fuel tanks.

If you skimp on any of the 3x processes the end result will not be a conclusive or satisfactory result.

I've never had any issues with POR15 and when I read comments such as "it did not work for me or the result was only so-so", then that is purely a case of operator error - in essence not being methodical during the 3x stage process and / or following the instructions.

The ultimate day to apply is when the air is damp, however I have applied it on a dry day in the garage with 100% success. If as stated the procedure is adhered to properly there is absolutely no issues in applying a top coat.

If you are applying POR15 to the underside where UV light (the sun) cannot access then the requirement to top coat is not a requirement. Rule of thumb is that if the surface painted with POR15 can be accessed via the sun then it does require a protective coat. 

As mentioned, do not return any unused final coat to the tin.

Regards.

Richard.