rust protection for chassis

[daveg]

I have spray waxoyled the underside of my Herald but I now need something with which will reach the inside of the the chassis members.

Recommendations please.  

Thanks,

Dave

[KevinR]

Waxoyl works just as well on the inside of the chassis as it does on the outside.

 

You need to find some holes where you can insert the long spray wand and then pump / spray some very warm / hot wayoyl in as you slowly pull the wand out so that the entire length is coated.

 

You may find that you need to drill some access holes - if you do, fill them with gromets afterwards.

One hole at the front or rear of each chassis member, and a 12ft ling spray wand should do the trick

[daveg]

Waxoyl works just as well on the inside of the chassis as it does on the outside.

 

You need to find some holes where you can insert the long spray wand and then pump / spray some very warm / hot wayoyl in as you slowly pull the wand out so that the entire length is coated.

 

You may find that you need to drill some access holes - if you do, fill them with gromets afterwards.

One hole at the front or rear of each chassis member, and a 12ft ling spray wand should do the trick

Thanks Kevin.

What I'm looking for is a source for that long spray wand.

Dave

[Unkel Kunkel]

Waxoyl or similar.

The standard  pump type sprayer for Waxoyl isn't  really up to much compared with a compressor driven Shutz gun with lance type attachement (Amazon.Ebay etc -mine was made by Plastic Padding )

 

Heat the  Waxoyl first- place the cannister in a container of very hot water( NOT heating it over a naked flame unless you like living dangerously- Waxolyl is surprisingly flammable)

[jondhm]

May I suggest Dynax, because it comes in big aerosols with a long spray tube. Previously I have always used Waxoyl, but this is a real pain to spray the inside of the chassis.

Some people recommend Dinitrol which is a thinner liquid, but for me Dynax is the most practical method I have come across.

John M

[daveg]

Unfortunately I cannot find anything where the spray tube looks long enough to do the chassis members without me boring some extra holes which I would rather avoid.

Dave

[JohnD]

One of the first, commercial rust prevention treatments was "Zeibarting", that was a franchised system for moderns.   I remember it well, it was a reasonably good system, but nowadays they are rust prooofed in production, and the business has died.

A modern car, with its monocoque body shell construction could not have all its voids reahed by some 'long lance'.   So Zeibart studied all common models and worked out where to drill holes to spray into the cavities.    The holes were then filled with 'Zeibart plugs'  whih became an alleged 'Plus-point' if you were looking a used car.

 

I don't suppose you could get Zeibart plugs today, but as suggested above, rubber grommets in all sizes are readily available.   Drilling a few holes on your chassis will do it no harm, and think of the resale value!   LIke Zeibart used to say!

 

JOhn

 

PS No Zeibart plugs, but Dinitrol plugs, same idea, yes!

http://www.rejel.com/rejel-store/categoryid/39/dinplug10bl50.aspx

[daveg]

opted for:-

Dynax S50 aerosol with flexible lance  http://www.bilthamber.com/cavity-waxes/dynax-s50

Dinitrol plugs  http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/321184249937

Many thanks everyone for your responses.

Dave

[docwad]

i have just re oiled my chassis and sills, prev waxoiled 10+yrs ago

i have used the dynax product and found the whole process very easy and relatively mess free, therr is also a clear product for seams that are visible eg front wheel arc in boot  area

 

it smells like  it contains some wool fat 

 

i would recommend the club shop getting hold of this to sell

julian

[billyboy]

I agree,dynax is very good for chassis box sections,with the optional lance.

 

Bill.

[daverclasper]

Hi.

 

I plugged the water drain holes on chassis and then squirted a fair amount of engine oil in there, and then parked it different positions on a very steep hill, to allow it to slosh around a bit, then drained it.

 

I guess this is better than nothing as it would be prone to most corrosion in the bottom sections.

 

Cheers, Dave 

[JohnD]

I hope you left it to drip for weeks inside your garage!

Instead of polluting the roads.

 At least Waxoyl is waxy, and stops dripping quickly.

 

When I last used it, I diluted it with white spirit, which enables 'sloshing' and doesn't prolong the drip stage very much, as it evaporates..

John

[Clive]

I'll echo what John has said. Please DO NOT do anything that drips oil on the road at any point. I could easily have been killed a few years ago because of oil or diesel being on a road, wrote off my spitfire (rolled after a spin) and a few minutes later another car got written off on the same patch (dolly sprint)

[mishmosh]

In the 80s it was common practice to spray the underside with used engine oil. Not convinced it did much. Used to ride a motorbike. Diesel and oil was everywhere ....