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Offside rear brake maybe not working correctly


daverclasper

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HI.  Having decided that front offside caliper is probably working ok (info on previous thread) I have looked at the rear as car still pulling to the left I think.

I suspected this offside rear was maybe not up to scratch a few months ago, as there was very little shoe dust around and the shoes didn't look like they had worn as much as the nearside, also the offside cylinder was weeping a little out side of the dust cover (though only a couple of years old). Anyway replaced both cylinders.

Still the same now, as very little shoe dust around offside.  With the drum off, the cylinder piston is moving out in operation, also when holding the leading shoe still with a screwdriver against the brake plate lip, the cylinder looks to be moving smoothly across the brake plate (this was copper greased when I replaced cylinders a bit back).

Also have checked the the shoes are the right way up/correct orientation.

Have measured the diameter of inside of the offside drum very roughly with a some carpenters? calipers and seems the same all around, though I guess the drum would have to centered and a dial gauge used to correctly measure any ovalality.  It looks like the nearside is a few thou wider.

Both pad areas of drums are quite shiny, though the offside has a brown tinge to it.

All I can think to try is to bleed the offside again, though pedal feels as firm as it's always been.

Swap drums over and see if tother side not working, though I guess there will be different pad wear foot prints on each side?.

I do have a set of used spare drums that have some wear, but don't look too bad. Fit these?.

Any ideas/advice would be great please.

Cheers, Dave        

    

Edited by daverclasper
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Dave yes, 

Try both those, it will give you an instant clue. You may have to re-adjust the shoes to suit.

Is the hand brake OK? Sometimes they can be out off adjustment on one side and disrupt foot braking. Slacken it off and see what happens, except you'll have to set it up again!

Doug

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Thanks.  Both side were adjusted/checked when fitted the new cylinders a few months back and also I adjusted a few days ago to see if It made a difference. Forgot to mention that both these times the offside didn't need adjustment, which also points to not working.

Will check handbrake, though cable each side was looshish when changed cylinders

Dave 

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Has the back plate got a wear groove where the HB lever pivots  ???  This can jam the cyl. Free slide movement 

Its best pratice to disconnect the HB then lock up  the square adjuster to fully expand the shoes then refit adj the cable to suit

now de adjust the square a few clicks to free the drum.

Swapping drums wont solve very much   unless one has ovality.

Pete

 

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Cheers Pete.  I did notice wear grooves in both back plates, when changed cylinders. No welder to fill them in, so I dremmeled the groove edges a bit to make them less severe and hopefully the cylinder movement smoother, as thought it wouldn't harm.

Pressing the pedal slowly, there doesn't seemed to be a snatch as if the cylinder was sticking in the groove, then freeing itself as more pressure develops, though I don't know for sure if it would show by doing this.

I'm running out of ideas, so thought maybe swapping drums could show if it was ovality.

Will adjust handbrake cable, with drums on and shoes locked up. Best with drive shafts at running height I understand, so will jack up vertical links. Are the drive shafts about horizontal for this please?.

Dave

       

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well if you jack till wheel is just clear then thats still about the same as its running height

rota flex is more affected by drop than the swing axle but its best to not go there just check its about right 

the groove problem only got highlighted on here a few months back , im sure you read ti.

well a swap for ovality checks to see if its affecting the pull s ok but otherwise much work for little return .

easy check for ovality is a slow roll and apply hand brake gradually if its oval drum you will stop with a pulsing /rocking feeling( dont tell doug)

as the drum rotates , 

edit .  whilst getting on the adjuster whith wheel on is less than easy you get a better feel of adjustment with wheels on

i use a 1/4" drive extension and a reversed socket fitted on the wrong way round  to gain access at a distance 

even juts use it with a adjustable spanner on its square ,  

brake adjust spanners wont fit in with the wheel on .......... a  pain 

Pete

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Cheers Pete. Glad your 2000 ok, and didn't need new battery?.

My brake spanner does fit just, luckily.  Has the ends angled a bit?.

I'm wondering if  this issue could be low hydraulic pressure to that cylinder.  The rear hoses were on the car 5 years ago when I bought it and no record of before that.  Probably not a bad idea to change them anyhow.

Can they fail internally and cause this, do you know

Thanks, Dave   

Edited by daverclasper
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Why not simply pop along to your local classic-friendly MOT station and ask them to run it on their brake tester - that will tell you if you a actually have an issue as opposed to supposing you have? You may be seeking a problem you don't actually have!

Gully

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10 hours ago, Pete Lewis said:

Guys do say collapsed hoses are possible, never found one myself

 

I have experienced this, and I know of others who have as well. However, the typical result is holding pressure AFTER brake application, rather than BLOCKING pressure as brakes are applied. But I'm sure it's possible either way. Also, newer replacement hoses simply don't seem to be of the quality and durability of OE Girling hoses (and even those probably shouldn't be trusted after all these years). So, even five-year-old hoses might be due for renewal again?

Edited by Herald948
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  • 2 weeks later...

Thanks.

well I have swapped the drums over, as the they hadn't been refitted at that point and still pulling to one side.

Just one more possibility I've wondered.  I've never studied exactly how the adjusters actually work.

It is not siezed, though could there be wear/damage, that is throwing a shoe/shoes out of balance/line with the drum?.

Cheers, Dave

Edited by daverclasper
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Yes. Think I will do that.  I know the fronts take most of the load and I have heard that it doesn't show with pulling to the side even if a rear not working.

It just seemed odd that very little shoe dust in offside drum, not had to adjust the shoes at all for ages offside and shoes worn more on the nearside that sent me down that route.

Thanks, Dave

Edited by daverclasper
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Dave time to sleep easy,  if youre not on the pills  get some we all need something to speed things up or slow things down 

i just get them in the wrong order 

Ive got a warning lamp for a parachute brake if that helps at all   , might alarm the passengers ????

ive never fitted it  , just seems a good ruse

 

Pete

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Hi,

Interesting that the rear brakes effect the handling under braking.

My experience is that after heating up drums to the point of ignition, replacing cracked ones, having a crappy handbrake & being an absolute pig to set-up they have no effect on the "pulling". Always thought incorrect front geometry Was set-up a couple of years ago and results were symmetrical. No weight in the car either.

Spitfire chassis & brake cables. CV rear shafts. In a garage now getting sorted.

I have the 3 different choices of rear cylinder diameter. Looks like I'm fitting 5/8"'s.

Cheers,

Iain.

 

Edited by Spitfire6
Word change.
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