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Fuse blown


petegardner_901

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22 minutes ago, petegardner_901 said:

it obviously went for a reason.

99% of the time that is certainly the case - on the odd occasion a fuse just gives up.

I would try another and see if that blows, if so you will need to start searching.

To hasten your search I would, where you can, detach a wire in turn at the fuse box where that fuse guards those circuits. Take each connection in turn and if there is an issue, the wire removed that does not blow the fuse will indicate which component may be at fault. It really is a case of substitution to prove or disprove.

Good luck.

Richard.

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If you have a multimeter that may help with a wiring fault.

A fair chance that it is the od circuit, possibly wires up the gearstick as they are prone to damage. But could be something such as a metal edge has eventually worn through a wire. 

And I assume you can see the fuse has blown? The fuse boxes have a habit of playing games....

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It may be difficult to detach the wiring from the fuse box, it was for me! A number of us have replaced the 3 fuse arrangement with a modern 10 blade fuse box. A few threads on here about doing it, something to think about! However, you will find each of the 3 fuses has it's own colour wires red, purple and green. Your blown fuse is the green fuse which may be a little help in tracing wires. I don't have overdrive, but the wire in the gear stick is a very common problem reported on here.

Doug

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Pete - pound to a penny it's the OD wires in the gear stick. If you can disconnect from the cable loom and the fuse no longer blows then you've found your culprit.

I used high-temperature sleeving - the sort of thing to protect cables in cookers - over the wires inside the gear lever. It's glass-reinforced silicone stuff. Dunno where I got it, CPC maybe, or out of some broken electrical thingie? There's not much room in there but if you can get something the right size to fit then it's worth it. I also put heatshrink around the little connectors that connect to the switch inside the knob. Heat shrink it on, then cut a slot for the contact with a scalpel when cool.

The other thing I did was to make an overdrive logic circuit. As well as inhibiting OD when shifting into 3rd/4th from 1st/2nd (which I was always doing having forgotten to disengage!) the circuit removes the relatively high current from the switch and wires so the switch lasts longer. But it does something else too; in this new circuit, one end of the switch is now connected to chassis. This means that a short circuit isn't terminal, it just engages OD if you're in 3rd or 4th.

Cheers, Richard

PS: The sleeving was probably one of these CPC - Fibreglass Sleeving and it was probably a friend/colleague who got it for something else. NB: Other electrical vendors are available, except Maplin :(.

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Pete I’d definitely swap the fuse box, on the vitesse I swapped for a replacement original style as an interim repair - I have a blade style holder on the car that I used when rewiring the lights etc.

The blade fuses are a definite improvement. I used a supplier called alm solutions via the dreaded eBay but they are a proper company who you can contact.

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53 minutes ago, petegardner_901 said:

would that have caused a blow - rattling around like that?

It's possible Pete, but as Pete says it is time for a new fuse box.

A new direct replacement for what you have at the moment will keep you going and during that time you can have a think about replacing it with a much better multi bladed fuse box which has been mentioned. It's not a five minute job upgrading to the new style, but is well worth the time & effort over the winter.

Good luck.

Richard.

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3 minutes ago, iana said:

alm solutions

Pete, they are an excellent company and I use them a lot.

Chap by the name of Kevin runs it and extremely helpful.

You are making the correct connections !!!! 🙄

Regards.

Richard.

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Pete, Im guessing this is the type you have (paddocks 608401), I swapped one on the GT6 I had years ago - it was a lot more hassle than the one on the vitesse, now Id go straight to a blade type fuse box (I intend to swap the vitesse completely on to blade fuses over winter.

image.png.2b62ab5786a4c4de31d407d3e4d9f6c1.png

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When I replaced my old one for a 10 blade, I was expecting 'lucar' type connectors at the back of the block. Nothing would shift. Even after cutting the wires and taking out the old box, the connectors appeared to be welded/corroded in. Even attacking them with pliers, screwdriver etc, nothing would budge. Still at the bottom of my spares box... just in case I need it!!

PS _ Now I wouldn't even consider a 3 fuse box so I don't know why I keep it (along with all the old, faulty, rusty, knackered parts)

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