Darron Posted November 20, 2019 Author Report Share Posted November 20, 2019 Thank you Jumpingfrog just had a quick look on that Webb site and there is so much information , interesting about the reverse idler gear being in partial mesh as this is what mine is doing I assumed it shouldn’t be touching this is why I was on for taking some material off ,and when I stripped the box there was a extra washer behind the standard size spacer Darron Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted November 20, 2019 Report Share Posted November 20, 2019 i would like to have run that design past our gearbox engineers to find what the up shot is but afraid they dont exist anymore interesting Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darron Posted November 20, 2019 Author Report Share Posted November 20, 2019 What do guys think about the link jumping frog sent about the idler gear running in partial mesh in certain gearbox ! And the fact that some first gears are thicker . i dropped the layshaft into night and the position I have for the idler slightly rubbed the shaft on the first gear so bit the bullet and removed 20 thou off the back of gear !! This gearbox project as certainly turned into a ball ache of a challenge, but so glad of the information, experience and general enthusiasm friendliness of you guys on this forum ,thank you Darron Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Truman Posted November 20, 2019 Report Share Posted November 20, 2019 What a fantastic thread this topic has been I wish it had run a couple of years ago when I transposed a single rail internals into a GT6 3 rail case with J type addition. Yesterday I had a EUREKA moment realizing why I had to slog hell out of the 3 rail reverse idler lever, why because the sleeve on the singe rail was longer at 1.08in which put the idler gear further forward and hence the top of the lever backwards, happy now I understand why! The single rail I converted was probably a MG Midget box as I brought it attached to a Midget 1500 engine.. I'll have to read the post where it refers to the Midget & Marina box's were slightly different. Wouldn't it be great if there was a Triumph history of the development, changes and differences (& why) of the Spit, Herald, GT6, Vitesse, Dolomites, TR7, Midget & Marina box's Thanks everyone for your input, now to print out the whole thread with the T/Enthusiasts references attached and highlight what I'm interested in and keep for prosperity! I have a Single Rail Dolly 1850 J type box which I want to fit into a 3 Rail case for my Mk2 Vitesse, will be interested in what the internal spec is! Or do I just change the mainshaft in the existing Vit box and add J type, tempting! I have a new small nose OD mainshaft. Peter T Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted November 21, 2019 Report Share Posted November 21, 2019 pete as i managed to get hold of a spare box to use as spares it had a single rail 1/2 hub on a 3rail mainshaft was a rattling good fit so swapping the mainshaft is unlikely to fit .. there are some slpine differences ,apart from the sleeve tooth count didnt study it much sold the hub on Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darron Posted November 21, 2019 Author Report Share Posted November 21, 2019 Even gents I think i have enough information and know how to rebuild the gearbox now , there is one more thing i would like to run past you guys my 1/2 syncro hub sleeve has its teeth well chimbled as you can see looking back on this thread , so my question is, as i have this box completley apart, with out buying the complete hub from Mick Dolphin for over £150, there is just the outer sleeve for a marina box brand new pattern for £50 is it worth buying or not ! i have added the link below, thank you all again Darron https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Morris-Marina-Gearbox-Hub-1ST-2ND-LATE-29-Teeth/113867460869?hash=item1a83079105:g:5rkAAOSw8WpdS~T4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Truman Posted November 21, 2019 Report Share Posted November 21, 2019 Pete I would use the TKC899 O/D small tip mainshaft with my existing original Vitesse Mk2 3 rail gearbox & attach the Dolly J type1850 O/D onto that. I'd have to get another Spit MkIV J type adapter, which are getting close to NLA though. Alternatively I'd have to pull my daughters Spit gearbox J type with Spit 1500 single rail sandwiched into a 3 rail remove it's MkIV adapter with additional spacer (won't go down well) and use the J type Dolly 1850 adapter on that box. a lot of work! I'll contemplate that and might wait till next winter. Regards Peter T Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JumpingFrog Posted November 21, 2019 Report Share Posted November 21, 2019 I think this is what you want: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MG-Midget-1500-1974-on-1st-2nd-gear-synchroniser-Part-No-DAM3982/362705041766 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted November 22, 2019 Report Share Posted November 22, 2019 i guess if the tooth count is right both ebay units will work , do check the ring bore as didnt the baulk rings grow in the evolution years just a thought Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
68vitesse Posted November 22, 2019 Report Share Posted November 22, 2019 Yes to the baulk rings, sometimes known as fat or thin rings, internal diameter increased external remained the same. Been down that route. Regards Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted November 22, 2019 Report Share Posted November 22, 2019 I do think we can safely anticipate that any part from a single rail box is going to use the later thin rings though.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darron Posted November 22, 2019 Author Report Share Posted November 22, 2019 Part that Jumpingfrog. Suggested on eBay ordered for that sort of money no brainer ,thank you for your time to look Darron Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darron Posted December 6, 2019 Author Report Share Posted December 6, 2019 Evening so gearbox and overdrive all back together, new 2 litre borg and beck clutch ready to install couple of question to you guys out there ,i have access to plenty of commer manual gear oil fully synthetic which i will attach a photo of its 75w/90 gl4 can i use this in the GB/OD and secondly the clutch fork looks in good condition apart from a couple of stress marks which you will be able to see in a attached photo is it worth me running a tig weld over them or will that cause it to get even more stressed as i have read somewhere that these do crack Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted December 6, 2019 Report Share Posted December 6, 2019 oil is fine the pin wear is not that bad, build it up if you wish ,i repaired a bad one by removing and weld in a pair of cut down clevis pins whats the carrier like , bst rmove the small spirol anti rotaion pin and reposition somewhere less worn Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darron Posted December 7, 2019 Author Report Share Posted December 7, 2019 Carrier isn’t that bad Pete to be fair, check the photos Darron Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted December 7, 2019 Report Share Posted December 7, 2019 yep looks quite workable , you have the dimpled groove , guess introduced as cheaper to maufacture this just stops the carrier spinning on the front cover making wear and lumpy pedal actions Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted December 7, 2019 Report Share Posted December 7, 2019 41 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said: yep looks quite workable , you have the dimpled groove , guess introduced as cheaper to maufacture this just stops the carrier spinning on the front cover making wear and lumpy pedal actions Yes, it is NOT damage and does not necessitate the sourcing of a replacement - which also has the dimple. Been there... but in my defence, I was advised by someone who back in those days should have known better! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted December 8, 2019 Report Share Posted December 8, 2019 you can always make a new dimple.. or drill and fit a split pin or a roll pin if you dont like dimples Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darron Posted December 8, 2019 Author Report Share Posted December 8, 2019 Thanks Pete will do probably just another dimple , away from worship for a few days now so filled GB/OD with oil and set up level see if I have any leaks sure I won’t . Darron Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted December 8, 2019 Report Share Posted December 8, 2019 worship ........... thats the place dont leave any oil puddles they come and get you Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darron Posted December 8, 2019 Author Report Share Posted December 8, 2019 Ha ha might as well be a place of worship spend all my free time in there ,so says the other half .. she ridiculed me when I put a tv on the wall in there ,wonder why 🤔 Darron Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darron Posted January 19, 2020 Author Report Share Posted January 19, 2020 Hi all Just a quick up date for all you guys that had a in put to this thread after putting everything back together over Christmas period new year and the last few week ends took the vitesse for its first drive in the best weather for a long time, and needless to say everything was spot on sweet as a nut it’s never felt better so a big thank you to all who contributed thankyou Regards Darron 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted January 19, 2020 Report Share Posted January 19, 2020 thats good to know all smiles then Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RogerH Posted January 20, 2020 Report Share Posted January 20, 2020 Hi Folks, can anybody explain more about the anti-rotation 'dimple'. On the early TR's, a Bronze bearing carrier, flat faced bearing and spring cover is used with no dimple. The carrier can spin on the GB extension and appears to work well/ On the later cars (4A/5/6) they have a steel carrier, coned bearing and diaphragm pressure plate. These tend to have an anti-rotation pin. I have seen a dimpled Bronze carrier in one of my rebuilds but put it down to 'damage' having not known about such a thing. A coupe of suppliers are now selling Brass carriers for use with the spigot pin fork - bad news - they wear very quickly. So. a question - why would an expensive Bronze carrier be stopped from spinning when a cheaper steel item would do the job. Roger Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave.vitesse Posted January 20, 2020 Report Share Posted January 20, 2020 Roger, As you say if there is no pin or dimple then the release bearing carrier/sleeve will tend to rotate. However, this rotation after a time can generate a squealing noise due to wear and in this case not due to a worn release bearing. Been their back in the 1960's. I suspect it was originally intended to allow the sleeve to rotate, hence the use of bronze. But, a service/production mod came out to stop this i.e. the dimple. To me it makes sense not to rotate as that is the purpose of the release bearing. On the six cylinder engines the steel type sleeve and pin was fitted to 1970's cars. A smaller version of the steel type was also used on the small four cylinder engine Triumphs e.g. Herald/Spits. The bronze type was fitted to the Vitesse and the dimple should be there. Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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