Fuel pipe

[Ziggy]

I would like to fit  a Ethanol Proof Fuel Hose  from tank to pump as just one pipe with no joints plus a glass fuel filter before the pump too, is this ok or does it have to be copper pipe with joints? 1972 mk4 1300 spitfire.

[NonMember]

The pipe along the chassis needs to be rigid (or at least semi-rigid). I had an MOT man object to a two foot length of rubber hose under a car once. Besides, the copper or cunifer pipe is a lot more durable and ethanol proof than any of the rubber out there.

[Pete Lewis]

many cars of the 70/80s used plastic fuel lines without any problem

what car ???

Pete

[Ziggy]

3 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said:

many cars of the 70/80s used plastic fuel lines without any problem

what car ???

Pete

72 mk4 Spitfire

[NonMember]

8 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said:

many cars of the 70/80s used plastic fuel lines without any problem

Yes, semi-rigid plastic is fine. Rubber isn't.

[Pete Lewis]

so not too many tight bends then ,  what ever you use needs some support on the underside  be they plastic clips or insulated P clips  etc

Pete

[dougbgt6]

The rubber bits are there for flexibility. The engine will move on it's mountings, the mechanical fuel pump is attached to the block, the fuel line is attached to the chassis so there has to be some flexibility between them. The clutch master to slave connection gets over this by putting a loop in the pipe, but the fuel line has a rubber joint just before the pump. My car has another rubber joint in the rear wheel arch, why this is there is a mystery! I have rubber hose all the way between pump and carbs, cutting down the possibilities of rubber sliver debris.

Doug

[dougbgt6]

Thinking about it and looking in the manual the GT6 fuel tank appears to sit on rubber donuts, is this why there's a flexible joint to the rear of the car?

Doug

[Colin Lindsay]

You mean the big round one where the fuel pipe comes out? It's just to seal the hole from moisture getting thrown up from the road when driving, and is a spongy kind of rubber that distorts after a few years use so can't be reused if you take the tank out. Thankfully I bought three or four at Stafford many years ago, and have had to use one to refit the MK1 petrol tank this week.

The Mk1 has no joint at the tank but the solid pipe emerges from the bottom of the tank right along the chassis to just short of the pump, where there's a flexible joint.

[daverclasper]

3 hours ago, Colin Lindsay said:

and is a spongy kind of rubber that distorts after a few years use so can't be reused if you take the tank out.

Maybe cut a replacement from a couple of layers, etc? of those green camping bed roll up mats, I think there non absorbent?. (god, we could do with a "tips and tricks" section, or is that a conflict of interest between the club and the suppliers who advertise through the club?).   

 

Edited March 6, 2020 by daverclasper

[Colin Lindsay]

I've been looking at exercise mats for all sorts of gaskets, particularly those thicker ones round the heater. Darling daughter however won't let me cut bits out of hers. The cheap ones are suspect in that they may not be waterproof, and the better ones are too expensive to buy, just to cut holes in...

[Adrian]

I have literally just bought a 38mm rubber grommet, made a hole to accommodate the fuel pipe so I can seal the hole. Not original but a practical work around.

[Colin Lindsay]

Something like this might do - 42mm, but with an angled hole in the middle for the fuel pipe. It's a Mercedes fuel injection loom bush, part number 1079971581.

I need to locate one before confirming if it's any use.... so off to the breaker-mate's premises on Monday...

 

[daverclasper]

In the meantime I've layered on some shultrz on the bottom of the gasket from outside/exposed area 

[Unkel Kunkel]

Machine Mart or B&Q interlocking workshop floor tiles  can be cut to make  any number of squashy  gasket type things /seals.

Sample  pieces  in oil  and others petrol for over 3 months seemed  fine.