brian GT6. Posted April 5, 2020 Report Share Posted April 5, 2020 I've just replaced all the fuel hose in the gt6 with nice club sourced ethanol resistant stuff. Just started her up and there was a flood of fuel coming out of the bottom of the standard air filter. Nothing coming out of the new hoses. I tried tapping the side of the carbs in case it was sticking needles in the float chambers. I've never taken Stromberg's apart so any suggestions for diagnosis and fix? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brian GT6. Posted April 5, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 5, 2020 Nothing coming from the bottom of the carbs either so must be out of the mouth of the carbs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougbgt6 Posted April 5, 2020 Report Share Posted April 5, 2020 The dread rubber slivers!! When you push the metal work into the rubber pipe, tiny bits of rubber are inclined to come off the inside of the pipe and lodge in the reservoir inlets valves, wedging them open and overflowing the reservoir. You can get the reservoir off the carb in situ and get at the valves to clear them up. I've had this happen, cleaned up the valves put it back together then almost immediately it happened again. I have a fuel filter before the pump and I have thought a second one just before the carbs might prevent this, but it hasn't happened again so I haven't done it. Doug 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigel Clark Posted April 5, 2020 Report Share Posted April 5, 2020 +1 That's my guess too. Nigel 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NonMember Posted April 5, 2020 Report Share Posted April 5, 2020 Yep, given that the last thing disturbed was replacing the hoses, it's the dread rubber slivers. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted April 5, 2020 Report Share Posted April 5, 2020 yes you can get the float bowls off On Car , if you have a bad back and use varifocals its more of the challenge and if the side screens are fitted to the bay then more to hinder the job. the slivers are crafty ,the float about in the supply line from pump to carbs and when your not looking jam in the back of the float needle valve you do need to remove the valve ans flush a few squirts of fuel into a jam jar , there are 3 long and 3 short screws hold the bowl on. then unclip the float, note which way up it fits as some will fit upside down these have two float arms on, then unscrew the float valve and look in its entry port , , now it a out do the flush by priming the pump a few strokes good site for clues https://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/carburetors ignor this is aimed at TR the basics are the same let us know how you get on and if you find any tiddlers Pete 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brian GT6. Posted April 5, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 5, 2020 Thanks guys too help as ever. Will report back Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daverclasper Posted April 5, 2020 Report Share Posted April 5, 2020 I have sanded the metal pipe ends to a bit of a chamfer to remove any bur/sharper edge, then used a bit of vaseline on the ends and try to keep the hose straight/inline with the pipe when pushing on. Never had this problem (yet!). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted April 5, 2020 Report Share Posted April 5, 2020 4 minutes ago, daverclasper said: Never had this problem (yet!). Me neither, but I never saw the hoses, just cut with heavy shears in one go. A good clean cut leaves nice tidy edges that don't fray. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew Posted April 5, 2020 Report Share Posted April 5, 2020 I have had this problem after replacing fuel pipes and yes I took the carb of removed the needle valve and yes there they were slivers of rubber blue it all out and replaced and all is well. I was a sceptic on the slivers issue until I saw them Andrew Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougbgt6 Posted April 5, 2020 Report Share Posted April 5, 2020 29 minutes ago, daverclasper said: then used a bit of vaseline on the end Always handy I thought there were 5 screws not 6? Still better to think more than less, one of ours wreaked a carb by taking out 4 and levering the bowl off! Doug Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave.vitesse Posted April 5, 2020 Report Share Posted April 5, 2020 Six Screws. Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougbgt6 Posted April 5, 2020 Report Share Posted April 5, 2020 OK! Irrevocable proof, wrong again Doug Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NonMember Posted April 5, 2020 Report Share Posted April 5, 2020 If it's any consolation, Doug, I've come across more than one car with only five actually fitted. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave.vitesse Posted April 5, 2020 Report Share Posted April 5, 2020 I agree, it's the short one that normally gets left out. Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted April 5, 2020 Report Share Posted April 5, 2020 and another hic up the bowl gaskets change as the years evolve, you often get a selection box in the refurb kits dont be surprised if you fit a new gasket and get a leaker where the corner profiles have changed and the gasket leaves small areas open to leaks pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brian GT6. Posted April 10, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 10, 2020 Taken the float bowl off the carb that had petrol pouring out. It was the one furthest fromthe fuel intake at the gearbox end so it might have been slivers from the hose between the two carbs. There were some black bit in the fuel bowl. The cut off pin was also stuck. As soon as I pulled it it started moving freely. When I pushed it up it cut off fuel from me fiddling with the pump and when I let go fuel poured out. If I put it back together again is it likely to get stuck again? It seems to move freely now. Can you buy replacements? Any I'll let all the petrol dry up put it back together tomorrow and give it a lash. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougbgt6 Posted April 10, 2020 Report Share Posted April 10, 2020 Yes the metering units are on Rimmers for around £6 each. However, it may be that your pin was jammed open by a sliver and pushing the pin back has just moved the sliver back into the pipe. When it happened to me I unscrewed the valve and flushed some fuel through into a jam jar to ensure anything in the pipe came out. You can do this by disconnecting the ignition and turning the engine over holding the jam jar under the carb. Doug Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted April 10, 2020 Report Share Posted April 10, 2020 +1 for dougs clues but you need long arms !!!! replacement needle valves available from many suppliers canley, rimmers. burlen https://www.canleyclassics.com/triumph-gt6-mkiii-carburettor-details-all-markets-except-usa-and-sweden-up-to-engine-no-ke10000e-all-markets-except-usa-from-engine-no-10001e pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougbgt6 Posted April 10, 2020 Report Share Posted April 10, 2020 Pete, No long arms required! Carbs and starter motor on the same side of the engine on a GT6. I disconnected the coil, so no spark, you don’t want the engine starting up! Then jump lead to battery in left hand, jam jar in right under the carb and tickle the starter motor with the jump lead. Petrol squirts into jam jar. I think that’s how I did it. Doug Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NonMember Posted April 10, 2020 Report Share Posted April 10, 2020 I think I'd prefer to use the button on the solenoid. Sparks from the jump lead with an open container of petrol nearby doesn't fill me with enthusiasm! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougbgt6 Posted April 10, 2020 Report Share Posted April 10, 2020 Rob, Sadly I have no button. Perhaps tickle was the wrong word! Doug Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted April 11, 2020 Report Share Posted April 11, 2020 i reckon some fire would kill off this virus , so dougs on a winner ha ! you dont see them these days but they used to sell a remote fly lead button to bridge the without solenoids pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougbgt6 Posted April 11, 2020 Report Share Posted April 11, 2020 Yes, that would work, or a safer idea would be to gaffer tape the jam jar to the bottom of the carb and turn over on the ignition switch. I don't often have the luxury of a helper so I have to figure out how to do things single handed. Doug Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NonMember Posted April 11, 2020 Report Share Posted April 11, 2020 A remote (low current) switch from battery to the solenoid control terminal would be an alternative to the button. In fact, you used to be able to buy such things as an engine turning tool for compression tests and the like. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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