trigolf Posted April 25, 2020 Report Share Posted April 25, 2020 Afternoon all. Well I thought the job was progressing well, until I went to fit the first Rimmers CV driveshaft onto the car. Hopefully, you can see in the pic (with my homemade Dexion Spring lifter in place) that the inner coupling end is fouling on the leafspring 'clip', which is stopping me getting it in. It does'nt make any difference which way I angle the coupling, it still fouls on the spring clip. The problem is accentuated by the fact that the CV driveshaft coupling is much deeper than the original UJ flange, which leaves you with very liitle 'wriggle' space. I can't take the spring out, as I'm working in a very narrow garage and the car is hard over to one side to give me working room, so that's the easy option gone ! I also don't see how it would be possible to fit a couple of bits of longer studding to the diff and remove the other studs to allow the spring to rise slightly, as I have to attach a spring lifter to it, to refit the vert link? My thoughts are to somehow clamp the spring leaves with something strong to hold the leaves in their current posn and temp remove the original 'clip', whilst I wriggle the driveshaft past. There's not enough room to fit a G clamp, unfortunately. How about something like an exhaust clamp, or a large jubilee clip, suitably shaped ? Sensible ideas please ?☹️ Gav Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted April 25, 2020 Report Share Posted April 25, 2020 the spring clamp may not be doing much but the saddle is riveted to the top leaf it wont be removable only the bolt so wont help much can you not jack the spring higher ?? or disconnect at the eye so upright and spring are separated ? pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted April 25, 2020 Report Share Posted April 25, 2020 Yes, it’s tight. Usually you can lift the spring high enough to sneak it through. Worst case you’ll have to loosen the spring clamping nuts. Nick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted April 25, 2020 Report Share Posted April 25, 2020 5 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said: or disconnect at the eye so upright and spring are separated ? pete First thing I thought of, as long as it's not already disconnected to allow the axles to be swapped? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted April 25, 2020 Report Share Posted April 25, 2020 Must be off alread Nick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trigolf Posted April 25, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 25, 2020 Pete, The spring is jacked as high as it will go - any more and it's lifting the car off the stands and the vert link is already disconnected. Nick , What worries me is that if I loosen the spring clamp nuts, I'll still have to put the spring lifter on to get the height to fit the vert link to the spring eye and the spring will probably 'pop' out of the central locating hole on top of the diff and it could be a right sod to get it located again with the opposite wheel still attached ! Gav Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trigolf Posted April 28, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 28, 2020 Well, I bit the bullet and loosened the spring clamp and that gave just enough clearance to fiddle the CV driveshaft into place. The spring went back down ok too. That completes the first side, now I have to repeat it all again for the other side. Working on Rotoflex supension reminds me that it is just a collection of large opposing forces designed to knacker you ! I hope this CV conversion is worth the slog ! Gav Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
68vitesse Posted April 28, 2020 Report Share Posted April 28, 2020 If the spring lifter starts to lift the car before you have sufficient space could adding weight to the boot help i.e. tool boxes, bricks rent a crowd etc. Regards Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigel Clark Posted April 28, 2020 Report Share Posted April 28, 2020 Only just seen this thread. On my Rotoflex GT6 I had to release the spring from the diff to get the new CV shafts in, so I'm sure you're on the right track now. It will be worth it, no more knackered rubber doughnuts to replace, even the genuine Metalastic ones don't seem to last more than a few years now. Don't forget to check the hub end float and re-shim if necessary. Nigel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Foster Posted May 3, 2020 Report Share Posted May 3, 2020 Hi Gav Oh the joys of a Vitesse/GT6 rear suspension. Sounds as though you have got it sorted. It will be worth it in the end. Good to see you are using lock down to good advantage. You've only had those bits for 2-3 years! Ian F Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trigolf Posted May 4, 2020 Author Report Share Posted May 4, 2020 Hi Ian, Yes, one side done. I 've now started the other side. Whilst doing it, I'm also swapping the rear shocks for the new ones - another part that's been sat on the shelf for 3 years! Yesterday it took me the best part of two hours to remove the old shock top mounting bolt .The nut came undone easily and the bolt turned in the bush and the bush turned in the shock eye. But could I get the bolt out of the polybush - no chance ! I couldn't believe that the bolt had 'seized' to the polybush somehow. There's not much room in the spring tunnel to try and push the bolt out of the top shock bracket. So after dousing it in WD40/Plus gas, and going out for a walk to allow my temper level to return to normal, it finally came out after much heaving and hauling on pry bars etc to push it out. The bolt was in good condition, as was the bush, so I'm puzzled why it was such a bugger to get out ! Grrrrr !😠 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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