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GT6 mk3 Clutch Master Cylinder


dan.mellors

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I've no personal experience of them but I know there were problems a while back, a few posts on other Triumph forums about leaks and brakes sticking, and yet other forums (Landrover) swear by them and say they're great. I've read that there was a bad batch circulating, but can't find any other info as to whether they've now been sorted, and as I've said other owners have no bother at all. Not much help, I know, but maybe someone else here has tried one?

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the main difference with OEM and the landrover spec is vast cost variance and the angle of the reservoir

if you dont brim the res that is not any real issue 

end fill cyls are available from car builder solutions and merlin motor sport where you can get the correct diameter and a nice removable plastic larger capacity reservoir, most just need the push rod swapping over , can be a economical alternative to the normal suppliers 

Pete

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the main difference with OEM and the landrover spec is vast cost variance and the angle of the reservoir

if you dont brim the res that is not any real issue 

end fill cyls are available from car builder solutions and merlin motor sport where you can get the correct diameter and a nice removable plastic larger capacity reservoir, most just need the push rod swapping over , can be a economical alternative to the normal suppliers 

Pete

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the landy type is sold on e bay as uprated  what it means is its 0.75"  rather than  0,7"  has upright resv.  and normally around £20 and raises the pedal effort 

its interesting that genuine landy have a very low mark up its just finding the compatible part used by many makes or the  Era

just some waffle 

Pete

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Not GT6 but TR6 related a couple of years ago a friend who isn't to mech minded rang to say his clutch master was leaking and we had a club run on the Sunday so a quick check showed a trailer brake master was the same bore/piston dia and pipe threads so I picked one up from the local trailer suppliers $25, drove the 50klm down the bay to his place and an hour later it was fitted and bled so we celebrated with a glass of red, clutch and car still going well. To buy a new Girlock on Triumph supplier master was nearly $200, even repaired S/S sleeved around $110.

Interestingly I had a brake master re-sleeved once and rather than the thin stainless steel sleeve it was a thicker chromed brass sleeve looked a lot more substantial the supplier said it avoided the sharp edge of the hole drilled thro from the reservoir! that master is in the Vitesse and no problems.

Moral do a little homework and clutch's ain't brakes so there not life dependent!  

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6 minutes ago, Colin Lindsay said:

They can be, especially when you're ...

... or your engine seized as you mounted a level crossing and the gear lever won't budge because of the load and the barriers have just come down because there's a train coming...

(This is similar to a scenario that Volvo quoted when we queried the logic behind a particular part of their software spec.)

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just with clutch failure

with a clear road and a good look around   

start it up  in gear and with a firm load on the stick and a bit of revs alignment you can change gear quite easily

just remember to switch off when you want to stop !!!!   or need reverse !!!!

if you also have no brakes its a whole new game with rope anchor and a change of underwear 

pete

edit to add just clutch

 

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I’ve always managed to get a car home under it’s own power when a clutch has failed or it’s hydraulics but brakes I’d do a Colin and park at the roadside I used to have a satellite phone never let me down! Who watch’s  Coronation St or Neighbours!

Sorry!

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the clutch uses a much lower line pressure the  brakes so sealing is ok at a lower grade design  ie washer rather than flares

historic problems when flexible clutch lines were used in the 70s was when hot they blew /expanded under pressure and clutch clearing could become a problem , i used a  braided flex on the vit6 for years without any problem you gain some engine noise reduction into the baulkhead better than the full bundy even with a coil added .

Pete

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1 hour ago, dan.mellors said:

Thanks both,

Yes I took a rigid steel pipe off, and I'm used to the flares on the brake circuit, which is what made me think twice about the copper washer (yes, too large) before I put it together. The flexi looked like an good upgrade but I guess that remains to be seen.

I've had one of the stainless clutch pipes on the GT6 for years now - at least ten - and no bother so far. 

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47 minutes ago, rogerguzzi said:

Hello All

             When I fitted a S/S flexible pipe to our Spitfire I left the rigid pipe on but fitted it to the bleed side and fitted a bleed nipple at the Master cylinder end now I can bleed the clutch from the engine bay.

Roger

That makes a lot of sense! Far easier than faffing about down by the bellhousing.

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15 minutes ago, Colin Lindsay said:

That makes a lot of sense! Far easier than faffing about down by the bellhousing.

Hello Colin

                  To be honest you just have to slacken the nipple and it bleeds its self plus any air is in the vertical pipe not in the cylinder

Roger

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