Doctor slow Posted December 9, 2020 Author Report Share Posted December 9, 2020 Well Colin, Although I still haven't got warm enough to take this damned damper off, and although the Monroe one is cross referenced against the GSA 280 on some sites, it seems likely that you are right, and it won't fit. And I can only find the Monroe ones on these slightly iffy internet sites anyway, so it seems more and more likely that I will have to prise open my wallet very wide........Grrrr not happy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Posted December 9, 2020 Report Share Posted December 9, 2020 Modern Monroe are nothing like the original stuff. Like so many other makes, I suspect they are just a label stuck on a product, manufactured as cheaply as possible. I guess you haven't investigated the beetle shocks. If you get the "conversion brackets/kit" make sure they are supplied with the correct, custom length shocks. If a supplier says they work with spitfire shocks, put teh phone down and go elsewhere. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doctor slow Posted December 9, 2020 Author Report Share Posted December 9, 2020 Well I've looked briefly at beetle shocks, but couldn't see anything that matched, but maybe i didn't look closely enough. Time to look again Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Posted December 9, 2020 Report Share Posted December 9, 2020 The part numbers won't match, You need to compare open and closed lengths. I d remember the damping rate was almost identical to the OE GT6 shocks. But I can't find teh details (I do know who posted about it, he was a GT6 owner working in the car industry at a high level) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Flinn Posted December 10, 2020 Report Share Posted December 10, 2020 I've been following this post with interest. Doctor Slow, can you confirm if you are using the Original Top Damper mountings which mount the top of the Damper (Shock Absorber) on the inner Wheel Arch on the GT6's Mk2's and early Mk3's fitted with Rotoflex lower Wishbone type suspension? If so, this Damper is longer than the type fitted to the early GT6 Mk1 and late swing spring type Mk3 and all other small chassis Triumphs. If your using the top mount Extension Brackets that mount on the original Chassis top mount's then, as stated by Clive the Open & Closed lengths are vital for a smooth comfortable ride. I fitted Koni 80-1717 Adjustable dampers (Designed for the front of an early Mini) to my Vitesse Mk2 using the top Damper Extension Brackets and the ride was perfect with them set on the Standard Factory soft setting. The Koni 80-1717 have an Open length of 296mm and a closed length of 218mm but need some modifications to the bushing to fit them to the Rotoflex type suspension. Let me know if you want details on how to fit them. Regards Gary Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougbgt6 Posted December 10, 2020 Report Share Posted December 10, 2020 On 07/12/2020 at 18:04, Doctor slow said: there is some "oily deosit" on the barrel of the damper (hence the MOT advisory) I had that on a Peugeot 306 three years running. Year 4 I took it to another garage, no advisory. I asked about the oily deposit and was told "They do that, nothing to worry about" I'd clean it up and if it still works wait for next year. Doug Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doctor slow Posted December 10, 2020 Author Report Share Posted December 10, 2020 Ha Doug thanks for that, you've brightened my day.......and believe me it needs brightening. I haven't been able to do much with this problem, partly because of the weather, but also because my "real" car, a Jeep Patriot has also almost failed its MOT (a number of advisories). The bounce test shows no weakness at all, so i'm inclined to think its OK. OK, now for Gary, this car is a bit of a "bitsa" it has been built on a modified spitfire chassis. On a previous post I asked for advice on an oil leak on the diff, and thought it was from an oil seal. It wasn't. I asked a mechanic to look at it, and he said that there were four bolts holding the spring onto the diff, and that there were two more holes, out of which oil was pouring when it was running. I didn't have a clue about this, but he said that he put two bolts in those holes to cure the problem. Does this this mean that it has a swing spring? I have to confess that I don't even know what a swing spring is! I also don't know if the bolts have cured the oil leak, or whether the oil on the damper is from the original leak. So it really does need closer examination when I can. I've had a quick look at the damper from under the car, and at the base it says its a Spax, but I can't read the code. I can't take the wheel off, cos the jack is under the Jeep, but there is no evidence of an adjuster that I can see. I have a couple of photos on my phone, which I will try to put on here....eventually. I've had a number of classic cars (lotus 7s, europa, midgets), but this was always my dream car, but my mechanical knowledge is not brilliant, so this is a very very steep learning curve for me, so be gentle with me! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NonMember Posted December 10, 2020 Report Share Posted December 10, 2020 1 hour ago, Doctor slow said: I asked a mechanic to look at it, and he said that there were four bolts holding the spring onto the diff, and that there were two more holes, out of which oil was pouring when it was running. I didn't have a clue about this, but he said that he put two bolts in those holes to cure the problem. Does this this mean that it has a swing spring? I have to confess that I don't even know what a swing spring is! If you had a swing spring it's unlikely the mechanic could have "put two more bolts in" as they have a steel cage that would cover the two extra holes. Since you shouldn't have a swing spring with a rotoflex setup anyway, there ought to be six studs (not bolts) holding the spring clamp plate to the diff casing. Hopefully your mechanic used bolts of the appropriate length to tighten against that plate, although the proper studs and nuts would be preferable. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted December 10, 2020 Report Share Posted December 10, 2020 34 minutes ago, NonMember said: If you had a swing spring it's unlikely the mechanic could have "put two more bolts in" as they have a steel cage that would cover the two extra holes. Since you shouldn't have a swing spring with a rotoflex setup anyway, there ought to be six studs (not bolts) holding the spring clamp plate to the diff casing. Hopefully your mechanic used bolts of the appropriate length to tighten against that plate, although the proper studs and nuts would be preferable. If only four holes are being used as per the swing-spring setup, you can blank off the additional holes on the diff casing with cut-off bolts of a suitable thread; I was always wary of them dropping in so used rubber top-hat grommets instead. It's entirely possible that the diff has been replaced and has the different casing. Six should be used with fixed-spring; four with swing to enable it to move about as intended. If you look along the length of the rear spring, and can see a little pagoda-like box over the diff (see photo), it's swing spring with one stud per corner. A flat plate on top with six exposed studs, and there should be three per side, indicates fixed spring. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted December 10, 2020 Report Share Posted December 10, 2020 2 hours ago, Doctor slow said: I asked a mechanic to look at it, and he said that there were four bolts holding the spring onto the diff, and that there were two more holes, out of which oil was pouring when it was running. I didn't have a clue about this, but he said that he put two bolts in those holes to cure the problem. Does this this mean that it has a swing spring? I have to confess that I don't even know what a swing spring is! Unfortunately it gets even more confusing because we have 'swing axles' as well as 'swing springs' and people sometimes mix up the two! The first was the original design and the drive shafts could indeed swing through a wide angle so a 'rotoflex' design was used to stop this. However finally, for various reasons, the set up was changed again to a swing spring which made the original design much more acceptable. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Flinn Posted December 10, 2020 Report Share Posted December 10, 2020 Photo's will help, I doubt a leaking Differential would get oil on the dampers though. Does your car have these Damper brackets fitted? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doctor slow Posted December 10, 2020 Author Report Share Posted December 10, 2020 Well, after days of research, 35 really helpful posts on here, and lots of bad language, I can tell you that there is nothing wrong with these ££%%##!! dampers. MOT inspectors, eh? when i bought the car the dealer said that he would waxoyl the underneath for me, which he did, but somewhat generously, and I think the "slight oil on shock absorber" was actually waxoyl ! Anyway, for academic interest the shocks have 96 40 SPAX 757 stamped on them - can't find a reference to them, but they work, so I won't pursue that. Again, for academic interest, i'll try to put some photos on here, and someone can tell me whether this is a conversion or original. I think it's some kind of conversion.Ther's also a photo of the "oil" on the damper. Really want to thank everyone for helping, and I've certainly learned a lot. Now to sort out whether it's swing spring, swing axle or original or some kind of bodge. Thanks again for all the help Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trigolf Posted December 10, 2020 Report Share Posted December 10, 2020 Those shocks are correctly mounted for a Rotoflex ĢT6. It's not a conversion. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NonMember Posted December 10, 2020 Report Share Posted December 10, 2020 I'm slightly puzzled by the braided rope-like thing that passes through the non-roto shock top mount holes in the chassis and then heads toward the diff, but everything else looks standard. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted December 10, 2020 Report Share Posted December 10, 2020 Looks like a fuel hose rather than the normal metal fuel pipe... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NonMember Posted December 10, 2020 Report Share Posted December 10, 2020 I did wonder about that but it's strange routing as it doesn't appear to be heading forward at all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted December 10, 2020 Report Share Posted December 10, 2020 I think the routing is different on rotoflex but also being hose its definitely been changed at some time... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NonMember Posted December 10, 2020 Report Share Posted December 10, 2020 I think my Rotoflex GT6 III has the original fuel pipe routing and it doesn't go anywhere near the top shock mount holes and certainly doesn't head towards the centre of the car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted December 11, 2020 Report Share Posted December 11, 2020 15 hours ago, NonMember said: I did wonder about that but it's strange routing as it doesn't appear to be heading forward at all. I'd guess it's coming from the rear - the MK1 and Mk2 tank outlet emerges bottom left looking from rear - then looped up through here and along the chassis via the centre tunnel, but how it follows the chassis is anyone's guess! It's not the original routing and I'd definitely not put it through the chassis the way it is. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doctor slow Posted December 11, 2020 Author Report Share Posted December 11, 2020 Well, you've really started something now. That braided hose is open at the wheel end and travels across the car, attaches to a copper tube which then turns down and appears to be attached in some way to one of the legs of the diff.......??????? It's very difficult to see how it's attached because it's hidden between the diff and the chassis. It doesn't appear to do anything. It's not, as far as I can see any kind of breather, and there is nothing coming out of it. Go figure, as our American cousins would say. It's certainly nothing to do with fuel, that's copper pipe, and not anything to do with brakes (obviously). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted December 11, 2020 Report Share Posted December 11, 2020 Maybe it was a previous version of the fuel pipe? Or could it have been some way of getting oil into the diff - has that been fitted with a drain plug? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NonMember Posted December 11, 2020 Report Share Posted December 11, 2020 Perhaps some PO had a problem with the diff breather (joggle pin job) and decided to over-engineer an "upgrade"? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted December 11, 2020 Report Share Posted December 11, 2020 1 hour ago, johny said: Maybe it was a previous version of the fuel pipe? That's occurred to me, too - if it's not connected to anything now, just pull it out before it gets caught round something. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doctor slow Posted December 11, 2020 Author Report Share Posted December 11, 2020 Well, it's not interfering with anything, so my inclination is to leave it alone. The copper pipe seems quite firmly fixed ..... to something, so in the spirit of if "it ain't broke, don't fix it", I'll leave it till I have to take the diff out in the very distant future. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted December 11, 2020 Report Share Posted December 11, 2020 have you thought it could be the Triumph equivalent of James Bond's Aston Martin pursuit evasion oil squirter? Look for a button on the dash to activate it but careful when testing it🤣 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now