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Curse of the handbrake gaiter


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with any handbrake adjustment its important the initial set up is  "set up"

disconnect the cable from a backplate lever

fully snarl up the adjuster to fully lock the wheel/drum 

now connect the csble to juts have a nice fit of the clevis with no tension

de adjust to free the drum  

this should ensure the shoes are correctly adjusted and should give 3 to 4 clicks up the handbrake pawl /ratchet 

you must have the comp lever angle correct or you gain travel but dont gain any braking

you will never keep the loose gaitor in place hence why iy was stapled to a stiff card to fit over the tunnel and was screwed in place 

https://www.canleyclassics.com/?catalogue=triumph-spitfire-mkiv/1500&diagram=triumph-spitfire-mkiv/1500-handbrake-cover

Pete

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All this is true.  I still have the cardboard cover firmly in place and stapled a new gaiter to it but it lasted about two to three runs out.  The fact is the the gaiters supplled today are absolute crap and nowhere near the shape or size of the original.

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22 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said:

think i would sooner  make one from stitching up some leathercloth to  make a gaitor 

Definitely. The original rubber ones were OK but a bit... cheap looking. Fine for a Herald but not for a GT6 (even the factory decided that) or Vitesse. A nice leather or even vinyl gaiter, with or without the armrest bit, shouldn't be too hard to stitch up.

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I fitted a new 'rubber' hand brake gaiter from one of the usual suspects. I also bought the brake/clutch master cylinder gaiters on the same order. You guessed it, absolutely dreadful. The handbrake could only be fitted by coating with soft soap to get the lever through and as for the MC gaiters, they are bad enough to fit properly at the best of times but these!!!! I eventually had a clutch fluid leak (dreadful quality MC cylinder seals) and had to strip everything out. I finally got the old gaiters out which were still flexible but looked old. Gave them a clean up with black shoe polish ( thanks Colin) and put them back on. They look great and actually flex. No wonder people go for new/old stock rather than new rubbish stock.

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On 12/08/2021 at 14:14, Pete Lewis said:

with any handbrake adjustment its important the initial set up is  "set up"

disconnect the cable from a backplate lever

fully snarl up the adjuster to fully lock the wheel/drum 

now connect the csble to juts have a nice fit of the clevis with no tension

de adjust to free the drum  

this should ensure the shoes are correctly adjusted and should give 3 to 4 clicks up the handbrake pawl /ratchet 

you must have the comp lever angle correct or you gain travel but dont gain any braking

you will never keep the loose gaitor in place hence why iy was stapled to a stiff card to fit over the tunnel and was screwed in place 

https://www.canleyclassics.com/?catalogue=triumph-spitfire-mkiv/1500&diagram=triumph-spitfire-mkiv/1500-handbrake-cover

Pete

I must make a note of that, will be dong it shortly, but you left out the bit: don't do it with the wheels dangling...

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yes i dont like anything "dangling"

so good point  you need to drop the jacked up car onto some bricks or support/jack up on the upright to roughly 

simulate the road running height of the wheels  

then find you cant get on the adjuster with the wheel on,     i use a 1/4 drive socket extension back to front 

4 clicks off should free the drum ok if you cant turn the wheels being on a brick  

pete

 

 

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