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MOSS Rear Spring for MK 1V on eBay, any good?


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As above really, my spring is original and definitely sits too low causing clearance issues fully laden.

I've always wanted it to sit a little higher so it sits level rather than pointing uphill.

Reputable seller, £108 delivered. Apparently 45 have been sold, has anyone on here fitted one?

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  • 1 year later...

Well, last time I fitted tap washers as I had them to hand. This time I have fitted new 'Bastuck' rubber buttons. They don't fit the depressions so had to trim them.

Result is no improvement at all.

I would like to lift the rear end 2" to be honest, anyone done this?

Edited by blubayou
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I would suggest at least hesitate  in changing or getting  rid of your old spring.

Although we tend  to assume  “ new” parts  are  always better than “old”parts, “T’aint  necessarily so” in relation to these springs.

 New rear springs can vary in appearance, weight and dimensions and no doubt other areas.They don”t always  solve  problems.

Replacing the spring “buttons” -(  the between-the spring  leaves- isolators) , can restore the car’s lost “back end stature “ effectively and very cheaply.

The original rubber type can be replaced with far more effective and durable ones - Teflon, Nylon or UHWPE -  see E- Bay. You can make them but it is a bit of a faff.

 

 

 

 

 

Edited by Unkel Kunkel
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That car does look a little low so assuming there's no lowering block fitted between the top of the diff. and the spring I'd say it's a well worn spring.

I've no objection to buying from eBay...but (for example) James Paddock will sell you a 'long shaft' rear spring for more or less the same price (£97.50 + shipping + VAT) and I'd trust their after sales support more than a random eBay seller...

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On 10/05/2023 at 06:50, johny said:

Believe the OP has already tried this (see post above) and anyway he wants a 2" raise which is a lot to ask from new buttons....

I saw that but noted Blubayou had tried tap washers-  which was imaginative, and then rubber ones - which didn’t fit. 

I was relating from experience regarding buying a new spring (from one of the major suppliers)as a cautionary tale as I was surprised and disappointed to  find it was completely different spec with thicker leaves, very much heavier and didn’t fit into the space between the diff. and first leaf. I returned it  and got a refund.

So I re-used the original spring  with UHMWPE spacers. inserting these  “buttons” did give a noticeable increase in ride height ( any  thickness you make them will be that x4 in ride height)-  though if 2” is what is needed, that does seem a lot.

 

 

Edited by Unkel Kunkel
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yes the first time he tried tap washers and the second Bastuck produced items but neither had the desired effect. I suppose he could get some specials made up but imagine there must be a limit on just how thick the buttons can be....

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Springs can sag over time, and the rubber buttons can squash or even fall out. But buying a new spring is a lottery - they will all differ a bit compared to the factory originals!

There are 8 buttons I think - 4 each side and their effect on raising the car is additive (each one you swap or add, adds a bit more height to the car) plus there's a multiplying effect - the tip of the spring moves further than the leaf in the vicinity of the button you change. There was a thread about leaf buttons here, and Cliff.B added some Polyurethane buttons but I don't know which manufacturer's these were. The buttons seem quite thick to me - thicker than the rubber buttons - so they may have had a significant effect. Cliff.B says about 1/2" or maybe more.

The alternative mentioned is air-assist shock absorbers. I have fitted the Monroe Max-Air MA785 which are intended for Corvettes (the car, not the ships) and certainly do the job. There's a thin pipe from each one, a joining tee (so they share the same pressure) and a Schrader valve you mount somewhere convenient (e.g. the boot) where you pump up the shocks to raise the back of the car by the desired amount. Sadly, one of my Monroes failed after a few years so I've converted back to bog standard. There is another company makes the same sort of shock - Gabriel Hijackers and you need part number 49304 for Spit rear. If you go down this route, note that you keep the bush from one end of your old shocks to replace the one that comes in the shock which fits the Corvette but not the Spitfire.

I think that's it for now. Let us know what you decide to do and how you get on.

Cheers, Richard

PS: Cliff.B's PU buttons

IMG_20221201_105828_767.jpg.60dcd9c52d80

Edited by rlubikey
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Thanks all, some good ideas.

In the short term I've ordered some of those Delrin buttons off ebay. I shall fit them and report back. I can definitely advise NOT to use the Bastuck items, my tap washers were far cheaper, fitted well and at least equally as good

Really I could do with a replacement spring with a more pronounced arch but have yet to hear a good report on any modern replacement spring.

I was considering heating the two lower leaves near the ends and bending them a little lower. Anyone done this? 

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I added an additional central leaf to my original rotaflex GT6 spring. I had tried a new spring but found it fairly hopeless.

Owen Springs provide the new leaf (actually a pair and the other now resides in Nick's GT6) and all I had to do to accommodate it was to elongate the holes in the inner straps. It raised the rear ride height slightly and has increased the rear roll stiffness, which I felt always was an issue with the rotaflex spring. It has made a big difference to the handling of the car and the rear corner now doesn't dip when you turn in.

With the swing spring design, this might be a bit more tricky, but anything is possible. 

Ian

Edited by Ian Foster
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Just fitted these Delrin buttons today. The new Delrin buttons did not fit at all, I had to file a chamfer on the top of each to get them flush to the metalwork. 

Hell of a job as getting the bundle back into the spring box is very very difficult. Had to release the fixed spring to get it all clamped up. Also had to glue the buttons in place to aid assembly.

The longest leaf appeared to have no dimples to fit the buttons, but it does they were bunged up with the remains of the original rubber buttons.

 

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Edited by blubayou
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That looks good!

New springs do seem to vary in spec.- not just in the spring rate , but in curvature, weight, thickness of the leaves - and also the size of   those ‘ dimples” for the buttons - insulators or whatever you call them.There were some aftermarket springs  made  with no  buttons or recesses ie the dimples to hold them and  the edges of the spring leaves in some cases were sharply cut. ie were’t  chamfered .

Those buttons closely resemble my DIY ones,  except mine are UHMWPE

Getting the “swing spring”  secured in the  spring “box”  can be quite a wrestle.

I battled  with G clamps and various levers etc. for most of an afternoon.

The tendency for the outermost buttons to fall out  ceases  once   the drive  shafts, shock absorbers etc are all connected up  because as the lower leaf spring of the “swing spring”  set up can’t then travel as far downwards.

Edited by Unkel Kunkel
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Well got the spring fitted last night. Lowered to the ground, pushed car back & forth... It was awful.

Sitting high but with around 2deg Positive camber, like a maladjusted Herald.

This morning I was ready to take it off again, but decided to run it around the block to see if it would settle.

Success! Looks good, sits an inch higher (approx 24" arch to floor, was just short of 23") and just over 1deg Negative camber

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I’ll add my 10 peneth to the saga of springs.  I’ve fitted a Rimmer that was rubbish -   Oils t go round corners without hopping

next bought a UK made one and that was the other extreme. Unfortunately I had chucked the old one away - bad move

this time I’ve bought a moss one that wasn’t quite as bad as the Rimmer but not far off but thankfully this time I learnt my lesson and I’ve mixed the two springs up and I have near on perfect ride height.  If it sags then not a problem, I’ll just swap out an old leaf for a new one. I’ve got really good T swapping out springs now. The shop spring lifter really helps get one if you don’t have one 

 

Kevin

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After 70 miles the car is sitting well, better than it ever has. Totally standard factory fitted spring with Delrin Buttons from a bloke on ebay (BTUK)

Approx 1/2 deg negative camber on unladen 1/2 full tank, long driveshafts. 

 

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